Wire size help

[Fallon]

10 gauge wire is a good choice for the battery to fuse block and 10 gauge is rated for 30 amps 12 gauge wire is rated for 20 amps and 14 gauge for 15 amps. I would install everything then using a amp-probe see what each item is drawing and add about 2 amps to that figure and fuse at that figure. Its always better to wire heavy and fuse light. I agree putting wire in wire loom is a good choice wire can rub through rather quickly on a vibrating tractor, Use good crimp on connectors with soder and good heat shrink instead of tape, makes a neater job and looks more professional.

Kenny. kkegris@yahoo.com

I concur, some is good, more is better & to much is just right. I put 4 gauge from my battery to my new custom fuse box I mounted in my cab. I could jump start another vehicle from my cab roof I didn't have a 60@ fuse next to the battery. Ya overkill, but no way I'll need to upgrade it later if/when I add mobile HAM radio, more lights or whatever.

I documented my build at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=376458 my only update & issues are I need to reinforce the rear brackets more, they bounce to much & I need to pull the roof to mount the keeper strap on the fuse/relay box to one of the screws (may take years to get around to that).

Definitely measure amp draw too. I designed my overkill off 2 300watt rated light bars, when I hooked them up to my bench power supply they pulled around half that. Made for overkill, at least on the 4 gauge way overkill. I won't ever have any voltage drop issues though.

 

[Stomper]

Good info guys. I will be powering two 20" led light bars, the 3rd function, my snow blower chute deflection and the chute rotation. I just fabbed up the mounts for my lights and the 3rd function today and once the paint dries I will install them. I haven't got my linear actuator or gear motor for my snow blower yet though. I will run the 10 gauge to the fuse box just to be safe. I only need about 6 feet from the battery to where I am going to mount the fuse box.

 

[Fallon]

Good info guys. I will be powering two 20" led light bars, the 3rd function, my snow blower chute deflection and the chute rotation. I just fabbed up the mounts for my lights and the 3rd function today and once the paint dries I will install them. I haven't got my linear actuator or gear motor for my snow blower yet though. I will run the 10 gauge to the fuse box just to be safe. I only need about 6 feet from the battery to where I am going to mount the fuse box.

Just make sure that primary wire will take the total amperage of all the things that are likely to get used at the same time. You are likely to use both lights at same time as the 3rd function or chute deflector. But even if I had a blower & my plow on I wouldn't use the 3rd function to angle the plow as I was adjusting the deflector.

The simple fact you are posting in TBN indicates you are prone to modding disease. I'd go at least a little bit on your fuse box capacity for future mods.

 

[Stomper]

Thanks guys. I will be installing a relay that will power up my new 6 circuit fuse box when the key is in the on position. As far as wiring my lights goes, I will power one side of the switch from the fuse box the the other side of the switch to the positive on the light. For my negative (ground) do I just ground them to the chassis somewhere.

 

[Mendonsy]

Yeah, anywhere on the tractor frame should be fine.

 

[Stomper]

I'm getting ready to wire up my aux fuse panel and need a bit of advice. Like I said before, I want the power to this panel to be powered up only when the key is in the on position, so I was going to wire it up with a relay between the battery and the panel. I have 10 ga wire to run from the battery to the fuse panel, Problem is I can't find a relay with 10 ga wire. Please bare with me as I am not overly knowledgeable with automotive wiring but, Am I missing something here or will I have to install relays on each circuit after the fuse panel

 

[powerscol]

If I may ask, why do you only want the fuse panel hot with ignition? I would run the 10 gauge with a fuse at the battery and keep the block hot and use fuses and switches for the other circuits. There are HD relays out there. Have you checked with NAPA? For the 10 gauge it would be on the order of a 50 amp size. I had one once to isolate an air compressor that pulled at least 30 amps when starting (kept blowing fuses)

Also not knowing where your battery is located, another spot to tie to is the hot lug on the starter. For me that saved several feet in the run.

 

[Stomper]

I was was wanting it on a relay so that stuff wouldn't accidentally get left or switched on and kill the battery. Would probably just be easier to do as you mention and keep it hot all the time. If I have to I can install a relay in the circuits that need it later.
As far as the battery goes it's real easy to get to and run wire to the panel

 

[LittleBill21]

Amazon.com: 5 Pack - EPAuto 3/4 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style: Automotive

has the pigtail for the wiring harness as well

 

[Fallon]

I got a 60@ rated fuse & relay unit for my build. Pretty sure it's noted in my light & power build linked above. Mine is installed up next to the battery so there is only 1-2' of wire unprotected by that 60@ fuse. It was convenient to get a module that had the fuse & a relay in 1 unit & put that next to the battery.

Personally I agree with making the aux fuse/relay box ignition switched. I won't need to run any of my gear with the tractor off & it prevents oops scenarios ending up with a dead battery.

Some people actually put the ignition switched relay on the ground. I'm not a fan of that method as it leave hot wires in potentially unexpected places & increases the chance of a bad short if it comes loose or gets unhooked while the tractor is turned off. With my relay next to the battery all wiring except for the 1-2' from the battery to the fuse/relay module is dead & safe to work on with the key off.