Wiring a 12 volt sprayer by connecting to utility wire under seat

[rsmith02184]

CAn I do this? I have a 20 gallon sprayer that I usually connect directly to the battery. I then realized there is a utility light wire under my seat that gets 12 volts when I turn the lights on. I was thinking I could splice the connector from my sprayer into that line and not have to drape the wire all the way to the battery.

Should I do it?

Thanks

Btw: I have a 2000 jd 4100 compact utility

 

[k0ua]

I am not sure what the utility wire is fused for, and I don't own a JD CUT, but I hooked my 15 gal sprayer to the extra wire under the fender of my Kubota that Kubota intended for a work light. Since they draw about 5 amps, and the sprayer is about 2 amps. I figured I was safe. So far no problems, I would think you would be OK, but it would be nice to know how many Amps the wire is fused for by getting your hands on an electrical wiring diagram.

James K0UA

 

[EddieWalker]

How many amps does the pump on the sprayer require and how many amps is that utility wire rated for?

I just ran a wire from my fuse panel, where I put in a dedicated fuse for just my attachements that need 12 volts. I used a 4 prong plug for towing a trailer and wire the top two prongs for hot and ground.

I run my sprayer and diesel fuel pump off of that plug. I also put one on my other tractors so they all can power the fuel pump, and there is one on my Kawasaki Mule, so I can use it to pull my sprayer.

A cigerate lighter would work too.

Eddie

 

[sunnyside360]

I wouldn't power my DC electric sprayer off a light plug. Those sprayers tend to take a lot more current than a light so most lighting wires would not be a good solution. I use a pto pump/sprayer now but when I used electric I ran a heavy stranded/fused wire (old/cheap battery cables) directly from the battery. Also too small a wire will give a voltage drop and not allow your pump to run at full pressure.

 

[k0ua]

The best thing to do is get scientific about it, and get that wiring diagram or get busy tracing the wire, and see what it is fused for, then you might look at this link and decide which pump you have and read the spec's on what the current draw will be. or better yet run your own wire and appropiate fuse at the battery. I reused a wire I knew was good for a least 5 amps and I knew I would be under that rating. But if we guess at ratings we may not guess right.

FIMCO High-Flo Pumps

James K0UA

 

[kennyd]

Run a new circuit from the battery...powering the sprayer through the headlight switch is a bad idea.

 

[beenthere]

On the other hand.....,
I have to say that I powered my 30 gal sprayer 12v pump (4 spray nozzles at 15 psi) off the wire to the rear tail light for 15+ years and didn't blow any fuse. Figured the wires were heavy enough to handle the fuse that was put in by the factory, and as long as I didn't have to put in a larger fuse then I should be good to go. It worked great IMO.

Had a two-wire connector hanging out and could plug-and-go.
Very convenient to just turn the light switch on to operate the pump.
This rigging was used over that time on my JD 425 and 445.

 

[rsmith02184]

Well I will definitely do some research on this but...

The wire that powers the sprayer looks like 18 gauge or higher. The wire to the utility light is about the same gauge. I was thinking they are compatible. I don't want to run a new circuit...if there is one already back there under the seat...I would rather use that. The utility wire is supposed to run utility lights. My sprayer is a JD 25 gallon.

 

[rsmith02184]

So please chime in with advice. The sprayer pump is not marked but a manual that I got online that looks like my sprayer says it draws 7 amps. How would I figure out the amps on the utility wire? I have the service repair manual.

Need advice on how to proceed....thanks

 

[k0ua]

So please chime in with advice. The sprayer pump is not marked but a manual that I got online that looks like my sprayer says it draws 7 amps. How would I figure out the amps on the utility wire? I have the service repair manual.

Need advice on how to proceed....thanks

Trace the wire back to the fuse panel (follow diagram or real world tracing) and see what it is fused for. needs to be at least 10 amps. Another way is if you know the wire is designed by the manufacturer to carry 2 auxiliary lamps that pull about 5 amps each then you should be good to go with your 7 amp load.

James K0UA

 

[rsmith02184]

Well the fuse panel only has 4 fuses in the block and they are all 15 amp.

The wire that I am splicing into is only one side (one light) of the two utility lights...is that not enough amps? You mention that if it is designed to power 2 lights, it should be all right but the wire I am using is only designed to power 1 light.

 

[whistlepig]

A twenty gallon sprayer is no big deal. You want to wire it so its not hot all the time so it doesn't drain your battery. Go to the auto store and buy a tester that looks like a screwdriver with a needle point on the end. Attach the ground on this tester to the frame and start poking wires with the needle point. When you find a wire that's hot with the key on and not hot when the key is off splice the hot wire of your sprayer in to it.

 

[k0ua]

Well the fuse panel only has 4 fuses in the block and they are all 15 amp.

The wire that I am splicing into is only one side (one light) of the two utility lights...is that not enough amps? You mention that if it is designed to power 2 lights, it should be all right but the wire I am using is only designed to power 1 light.

Well, its "iffy" a single aux lamp is usually about 55 watts so a little less than 5 amps. you state your findings about the pump are its draws about 7 amps. The point would be the circuit may only be designed to support the 1 lamp or about 5 amps. The fusing is OK, but there are liable to be other things (likely lights) on this same circuit. Did you say you had the wireing diagram? If so check what else is on the circuit. If nothing else is on this circuit and it is fused for 15 amps, go for it. but if other things are on the circuit it would be possible to blow the 15 amp fuse, might not happen but it could. I would think that would be the worst thing that would happen. If the wire is 18 guage or larger, it should be ok for a short run like is in the tractor. So maybe just give it a try. Of course the idea of running you own wire and fusing at the source is also a good one. Also the key idea is a good one. One way to acheive both is supply your own relay and any switch's on the dash you may want to control it. and power the coil of the relay from a "hot" connection that is only hot when the key is on, (see Whistlepigs last post for method to find it) and let the contacts of the relay provide battery power when the relay is energised. Be sure to fuse the battery lead at the battery with an waterproof inline fuse. If you do this then you have the best of both worlds, a dedicated battery supply that is controlled by having the key on, and also a dashmounted switch to pressurize the sprayer only when you want. My sprayer had an inline switch right at the connecton to the tractor I could reach from in back of the seat, and that worked for me. BUT my sprayer draws less than 4 amps, and I knew for sure.it would not overload the Aux lighting circuit. I can draw up a schematic if you need it.

James K0UA

 

[whistlepig]

Do the poking thing with a tester. Your tractor will not disappear in a mushroom cloud by doing so. At worst you may blow a fuse.

 

[rsmith02184]

Well I am not the greatest with electricity but I do own a tester or as whistle pig says. "a screwdriver looking thing with a needle on it". I know what branch powers the utility light by putting my dc volt tester in the plug and turning on the key. Like I said earlier, ingot 12 volts with the key on...zero volts with it off. Also, the wire going to the sprayer has a switch that I would turn on when I want the power to get to the sprayer.

So, if the worst that can happen is I blow a .10 cent fuse, then I am going to go for it.

 

[k0ua]

Well I am not the greatest with electricity but I do own a tester or as whistle pig says. "a screwdriver looking thing with a needle on it". I know what branch powers the utility light by putting my dc volt tester in the plug and turning on the key. Like I said earlier, ingot 12 volts with the key on...zero volts with it off. Also, the wire going to the sprayer has a switch that I would turn on when I want the power to get to the sprayer.

So, if the worst that can happen is I blow a .10 cent fuse, then I am going to go for it.

Agreed, move forward, if it blows the fuse, we will do something else.

James K0UA

 

[beenthere]

Go for it. As you say, the worst that can happen is blowing a fuse. But you won't and it will work just fine. IMO