Wood Mauls

   / Wood Mauls #12  
Try a smart log splitter they work great just google that name. Have split a lot of wood as well as make kindling
 
   / Wood Mauls #13  
The seven pound maul I have now is on about on it's thirtieth handle. One a year on average and I've tried everything except steel pipe. For good wood a four pound axe in skilled hands is faster and the really tough stuff takes wedges,often more then one to a block, but that seven pounder will walk through most of it as fast as the kids can stand them up. Doesn't matter what brand as long as the temper is right and the hammer end doesn't chip when driving wedges. Still I'm getting old and like my hydraulic wood splitter and don't miss doing it by hand one bit.

I think mine is a 8lb. Been through many handles but I started puitting those rubber donut handle thingies on. My current handles (maul and sledge) have been reset twice now and the handles are still solid showing no signs of the usual beavering. I noticed today that the maul one needs a new donut though.

As for the Fiskars: they do build mauls but the Fiskars that isusually being referred to is a "splitting ax", not a maul and it is NOT a replacement for a real maul. I have the x27 and it is amazing at what it was made for, straight grain stuff. Whaling away at a big round with one can work it up but it is far mor efficient to first break it up with the proper tools - wedge/sledge or maul and then go to the Fiskars. It's the same, same old story - there is no "all-purpose" tool.

Harry K
Harry K
 
   / Wood Mauls #14  
I did not like the handle on the Fiskars at all. As a kid we split alot of bigger white oak. Wedge/sledge was the way it was done. Nice straight grain wood. Aways looking at auctions for a bigger sledge. Was up at the farm this summer mowing and found a 20lb. sledge in a shed. Left it there as it is now much to heavy to be used. Thirty years sure changes how you look at things.
 
   / Wood Mauls #15  
My first maul was from HD or Lowes and has a yellow fiberglass. The head eventually loosened from the handle and it did not look easily fixable so I bought another maul. The problem was the second maul was too short so it was kinda dangerous, but it was all Lowes had in stock. Last year I ordered a Fiskar from Amazon and got the longer handle. They had two lengths and the way the handle is designed to hold the head, I doubt it will ever loosen up.

The Fiskar was SHARP which was a surprise since every axe or hatchet I have bought was dull as could be.

The Fiskar splits real nice. It could be a bit heavier for me and I wish the head was a bit wider but it is the best manual splitter I have used. I would rather split wood with the Fiskar than the hydraulic splitter. Go figure. :confused3::laughing::laughing::laughing:

Just make sure the handle is long enough. Seems like the handle should be about as long as your legs.

Later,
Dan
 
   / Wood Mauls #16  
I think mine is a 8lb. Been through many handles but I started puitting those rubber donut handle thingies on. My current handles (maul and sledge) have been reset twice now and the handles are still solid showing no signs of the usual beavering. I noticed today that the maul one needs a new donut though.

As for the Fiskars: they do build mauls but the Fiskars that isusually being referred to is a "splitting ax", not a maul and it is NOT a replacement for a real maul. I have the x27 and it is amazing at what it was made for, straight grain stuff. Whaling away at a big round with one can work it up but it is far mor efficient to first break it up with the proper tools - wedge/sledge or maul and then go to the Fiskars. It's the same, same old story - there is no "all-purpose" tool.

Harry K
Harry K
That's true the fiskars not a maul i wouldn't use it as one either. I have an 8lb splitting maul and wedges sitting in the corner of the wood shed that i used to use. The fiskar is my usual tool and if i can't get it then out comes the maul and wedges. I don't use the splitting maul as a splitter though, just as a maul for the wedges Most of the wood i split is pretty easy straight grain fir and pine a little alder, maple, and some larger oak somebody gave to me. The oak provides the best work out:)
 
   / Wood Mauls #17  
I've never tried a Fiskars or other brand name splitter. I use a generic 8 lb on a fiberglass handle. I wore out one fiberglass handle, took quite a few years, but after enough bad swings, anything will wear out. I did try welding a steel handle on a maul years ago, but it adds a lot of weight in the wrong places and transmits shock to much. I have a 6 lb splitting maul with a narrower blade that is fine for small stuff, and less tiring to swing, but it is no match for the 8 lb'er with a wider wedge blade.

I don't know about getting a fancy maul, if I swing it good, hit the spot I am aiming at, the wood usually splits. I start on the outside on larger rounds unless I can see a bit of natural grain split across the middle to work with.

How do you all swing your splitting mauls? My maximum force swing starts with the head of the maul down by my right foot, and makes a 270* arc by the time it hits the wood. For tough splits I think it's all about head speed and accuracy. For accuracy, I find it's like throwing a ball, it goes where your eyes are focused on.
 
   / Wood Mauls #18  
I have had something called a "MONSTER MAUL" FOR 40 YEARS. All metal, with a pipe handle. The head is a solid triangle shape about 4" x 5" on the poll and about 6" long. Weighs 12 lbs. Nice thing is that it is almost impossible to get stuck. I now (at age three score and five) split about 5 cords a year with it. Have split as much as 14 cords/year in the past.
 
   / Wood Mauls #19  
I don't use enough wood to justify a splitter so I've been looking for a maul. Looked at Fiskars, Stihl and Husqvarna name brand wise and the usual offerings at the box stores. Any one have any recommendations? :tree:

I got an old excavator tooth, welded a solid steel handle to it and filled the head with lead. Worker great and especially when the wood is frozen.
 
   / Wood Mauls #20  
I have a splitter now, but before I got it I'd always split with wedges and a sledge. Never could split wood worth beans with a maul.

If its a straight grain oak, I can use the maul but a couple of wedges and the hammer side of the maul work better for big pieces or non-straight grain wood. The maul I use has a hammer end and a dull axe end. Tried using a double bit axe but not good enough in hitting exactly right to do much good.
 

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