Wood Mauls

[aczlan]

I have had something called a "MONSTER MAUL" FOR 40 YEARS. All metal, with a pipe handle. The head is a solid triangle shape about 4" x 5" on the poll and about 6" long. Weighs 12 lbs. Nice thing is that it is almost impossible to get stuck. I now (at age three score and five) split about 5 cords a year with it. Have split as much as 14 cords/year in the past.

I have a Monster maul as well, Dad had the 12# version like you describe (IIRC, he got it in the late 70s or early 80s) and he gave me a newer one which looks like this one: Truper Axes — 12-Lb. Splitting Maul w/Steel Handle | Axes| Northern Tool + Equipment

Works well and no worrying about breaking a handle. I would recommend using insulated gloves though for a little extra vibration protection.

Aaron Z

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Fiskars is one of the ones I still want to look at...

 

[kco]

Like others, my favourite is the Fiskars X27 splitting axe. I have a shorter Fiskars splitting axe (same length as X25 but lighter, they don't sell them here anymore) and find it a bit dangerous for heavy splitting. I often split with wood on a block. If you miss with the short handled X25 your axe can be short of the block and swing right through. Thus, the longer X27 is safer for me--because I sometimes miss! The X27's larger head makes it more effective than the X25.

I have used the Fiskars splitting axes for 4 or 5 years, starting with the short one which I still use for splitting smaller stuff. I got the X27 as soon as it became available here.

I've told five long-term woodcutters(we all heat with wood) about the X27. They have all switched to the Fiskars. The Fiskars' light weight (compared to a maul) is far easier on us old timers. I had mostly given up hand splitting before I got the Fiskars.

I have an electric splitter I use for final splitting when I move wood to the shed (I like my wood split small). But I use the Fiskars to hand split the larger pieces out in the open storage area. It's quicker and more fun than the splitter.

I gave away my two splitting mauls.

 

[Egon]

The best Maul would be the one attached to a husky well turned out twenty year old lad!

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

The best Maul would be the one attached to a husky well turned out twenty year old lad!

My wife would probably like that also! :laughing:

 

[IndyIan]

I'l have to get a fiskars x27, I have a 6lb collins axe with a plastic/fiber glass handle. The handle slides down through the head like a pick axe so its much stronger than the regular fiber glass handle attachment. But I've also got some "tennis elbow" perhaps from the plastic handle? Also I'm not afraid to just rip tough blocks in half with the chainsaw. I'll set aside block that don't split easily and then cut them all at once, cutting with the grain, it goes pretty fast, atleast with a 372xp and a sharp chain.

 

[clemsonfor]

I have busted the head off 2 fiberglass mauls and have yet to replace either?? I have an old wood one that is probably 30 years old or so that I got from family. Just get head as tight as I can and soak it in water over night to get it really tight.

Over on hearth.com where firewood and sotoves is the main topic, those fiskars are the big talk, expecially the x27. I haven't got one cause of the money and most of my splitting these days it is with a hydro splitter, but I will get on one day. I do split a good bit with an axe when its not to big or knotty as it does not tire you as much and this is why the fiskars shines, its and ax with wings on it to help it split and has a few more pounds than a normal ax.

 

[clemsonfor]

I'l have to get a fiskars x27, I have a 6lb collins axe with a plastic/fiber glass handle. The handle slides down through the head like a pick axe so its much stronger than the regular fiber glass handle attachment. But I've also got some "tennis elbow" perhaps from the plastic handle? Also I'm not afraid to just rip tough blocks in half with the chainsaw. I'll set aside block that don't split easily and then cut them all at once, cutting with the grain, it goes pretty fast, atleast with a 372xp and a sharp chain.

I too if I hit it a few times and cant bust it I set it and others like it to the side and then get the saw and noodle it in half then split the rest. Noodling is where you cut the round vertical, called noodeling because the long spaghetti string chips that it pulls out. you can sometimes just cut half way then bust it the rest of the way with the maul to save time. I have a larger saw so I can rip through them in just say 5-10 seconds per log so its not long.

 

[turnkey4099]

I too if I hit it a few times and cant bust it I set it and others like it to the side and then get the saw and noodle it in half then split the rest. Noodling is where you cut the round vertical, called noodeling because the long spaghetti string chips that it pulls out. you can sometimes just cut half way then bust it the rest of the way with the maul to save time. I have a larger saw so I can rip through them in just say 5-10 seconds per log so its not long.

I have a 3-step process:

1. Split everything I can by hand. AT my age it is a case of "use it or lose it" and the altenative to the excercise I get "wooding" would be a gymn. How boring can that be? Rejects (knots/crotches/stringy) go on a "reject pile"
2. When that pile gets too big I drag out the hydralic splitter (troybilt 27ton)
3. Rejects from that go to the "to be noodled pile"

I am cjurrently somewhere around 12 years ahead with Black locust, about 10 cord of that is still to be split. Dunno what I will do when I hve that all split, I have harvested just about all the B Locust I can get access to.

This season I am cutting and workign up Willow just to be out there "wooding". I actually have a customer who will take 4 cord/yr at $120 (I may raise that due to gas prices).

Harry K

 

[MotorSeven]

I have the Fiskars X27, X25 & of course the X7 hatchet for splitting kindling Since i got the Fiskars a few years ago I have not used my mauls.

I like the 27 best since I am tall(6'4). Splitting with a fiskars requires a different technique then with a maul. Mauls are dull and heavy which require downforce power in the swing usually at the center of the round. Fiskars are more finesse w/speed and you strike off center working your way around the center of a round with the center being last. Also the traditional stance with a maul was one foot forward, one back and a kinda side swing over the shoulder. With Fiskars stand feet shoulder length apart and even, swing from behind you directly over the head and down. With the fiskars stance if you miss you will not have that razor sharp head stuck in your Sgt Hulka(steel toes boots are a real good idea), shin or cankle......this really hurts and makes a mess. The thing is sharp and will cut you just for standing around looking dumb...wear gloves!