Wood Splitter Cylinder Quit Moving...

BarnieTrk · Jul 7, 2020

Hi Fellas,
I have a 35-ton HUSKEE Wood Splitter equipped with a 12.5HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I have been the primary user (borrowed it to my son a couple of times many years ago) and have used it probably nearly every month (one or more tanks of fuel per use). It has worked flawlessly for over 12 years. It has a spin-on, automotive-style hydraulic fluid filter, which I changed about three years ago...just 'cause I figured I should. I keep the unit covered and it does not go bouncing up and down the road, it stays right here.

The Problem:
I ran two tanks of fuel through it just yesterday (yes, it was 90*F outside, but I was not in a hurry and I worked in the shade) - and it performed GREAT. Today, I preceded to split some more dry Ash, as I was doing yesterday. The engine started on the second pull (as it usually does), I placed a section of firewood on it. The wedge moved up 3-4" to make contact with the wood, as soon as the wedge touched the wood - it stopped moving forward and briefly made an odd sound. I immediately killed the engine looking the unit over for some obvious reason for the odd noise. I didn't see anything out of the norm. I restarted the engine (one pull), and it had a different sound to it, but not really 'bad' sounding. However, the cylinder does not move........

I checked the hydraulic fluid tank level. The dip stick indicated the fluid level to be about 30% into the FILL level...which I figured should be fine, since it was still cold. The fluid on the dip stick was clear and clean and appeared to be without any bubbles.

I am a novice with hydraulics, but I do own some tools and can manage the simpler tasks. I could change the hydrauluic filter again.... All the hoses and lines all look to be in good shape, no leaks, no damaged or bent tubing.

What do you think happened, Guys? Did the pump coupler give way? Is that a common fail with age?

What do I need to do to get it diagnosed and operating trouble-free again.

Thanks in Advance for any and all advice/suggestions/assistance! - BarnieTrk

P.S.
Ok, after doing some surfin',,,it seems this unit likely has an INLET FILTER which I never realized before. It is likely located at the base of the tank, inline of the inlet hydraulic hose supplying the hydraulic pump. I suppose that could be plugged off? But considering the age, many units seem to use a nylon engine-to-pump coupler, and they get brittle and break.... which may of accounted for the odd/slight noise I heard...

RustyA · Jul 7, 2020

Is the coupler between the engine and the pump turning on both ends? If so perhaps either the pump has failed or the valve has? With cylinder retracted reservoir should show full at least to bottom hash marks cold.

BarnieTrk · Jul 7, 2020

RustyA,
Thanks for the quick reply!
I didn't look for / at the coupler. I am not sure if I can see it without first dropping/unattaching the pump. I will do a closer inspection tomorrow. I will also inspect for evidence of an inline INLET FILTER located in the supply line at the base of the tank going to the pump.

I will report back.

Thanks again! - BarnieTrk

CoyPatton · Jul 8, 2020

BarnieTrk said:
RustyA,
Thanks for the quick reply!
I didn't look for / at the coupler. I am not sure if I can see it without first dropping/unattaching the pump. I will do a closer inspection tomorrow. I will also inspect for evidence of an inline INLET FILTER located in the supply line at the base of the tank going to the pump.

I will report back.

Thanks again! - BarnieTrk

Without the motor running, if you can remove the line going to the valve. Have a clean 5 gal bucket to place the hose end into. Now holding the hose in the bucket to control both, start the motor. You may want to have an assistant or to have the motor warmed up prior to disconnecting the hose from the valve.
If you have forceful flow, your pump is being supplied and working. If you have no flow or a trickle, you have problems at the pump (bad pump or the weak link coupler)
If you have forceful flow at the hose removed from the valve, you have issues with the valve, the hose to the cylinder or the cylinder itself.
Reconnect the hose to the valve, mark the hoses to know which came from which end of the cylinder (again motor off) remove the hoses from the cylinder and put them in the 5 gal bucket. If both have forceful flow, you have a problem with the cylinder, if neither have forceful flow, probably a valve issue, if one has more forceful flow than the other, you likely have a hose that has collapsed (I suggest replacing both, they have the same wear. Put the functioning one up as a spare if you want).

big bubba · Jul 8, 2020

sound advice CoyPatton
to the OP: i've had the same model Husky 35ton for around 14yrs flawless machine, great engine. hopefully your problem is easily solved.
best regards, bb

flyerdan · Jul 8, 2020

A quick look on the web seems to indicate that it should have a lovejoy coupler, so it should still run the pump, even if the insert has failed. It would be noisy and probably vibrate a lot, but should function.
It really sounds like the relief valve has failed; if the weird sounds are more of a squall, I'd check that for a broken spring. Especially since it moved to the point that the pressure started to build just before the failure.

jmc · Jul 8, 2020

I had a relatively new cylinder acting up similarly. Turned out that the rod was disconnected from the piston. Stripped threads maybe.

CoyPatton · Jul 8, 2020

big bubba said:
sound advice CoyPatton
to the OP: i've had the same model Husky 35ton for around 14yrs flawless machine, great engine. hopefully your problem is easily solved.
best regards, bb

oldnslo · Jul 8, 2020

Can you see the coupling driving the pump? If yes watch to make sure it keeps turning while attempting to split a block of wood. Sheared drive key would squall until shaft seizes in coupling.

BarnieTrk · Jul 8, 2020

RustyA,
You asked if the coupler between the engine and the pump turning on both ends? It is not turning at the same rate. I suspect it has failed.

Flyerdan,
Yes, it does have a Lovejoy coupler. Which appears to be non-functioning...with the engine running, the top halve of the coupler spins, but the bottom half does not spin at the same rate...it makes some but slight movement with noise. I will loosen the four bolts holding the hydraulic pump to the brace beneath the engine. I suspect this will give me access to loosen the coupler set screws and remove it from the engine shaft and the pump shaft. I know it will be hot again tomorrow to do this job, but it probably is still better than doing it in February lying on the frozen tundra! Hopefully my neighborhood NAPA has the correct replacement coupler in stock. I'll report back tomorrow........

Thanks guys for all your assistance! -- BarnieTrk

i7win7 · Jul 9, 2020

Hope it's something simple like a key or set screw fell out. You'll know more when you remove the coupler.

LD1 · Jul 9, 2020

Those lovejoys are cheap. TSC usually stocks the ones in the sizes used on the huskee splitters. I'd buy both halves and a new spider. Replace everything as a set.

Just hope it didnt damage the pump shaft too much if it was a key that sheared

BarnieTrk · Jul 9, 2020

Well Fellas,
I was finally able to locate the correct allen wrench for the set screws. Without messing around, I reached for the good stuff penetrating oil (Kroil). Set screws removed. Not able to move the lower half of the coupler off the pump shaft. I unbolt the pump from the bracketry. More penetrating oil. Propane torch and more Kroil..... nothing budging. I apply more heat and more Kroil. I go do something else while the Kroil soaked in. I dig up my 'pickle fork' tool to push between the pump housing and the lower coupler half. SNAP!! I thought the coupler had popped off, but no...... the pump shaft snapped in two, just below the coupler. WTH.

So I drained the engine motor oil and the fuel tank. I removed the engine from its mount above the pump. Now I will be able to get the upper coupler half much easier...for heat and penetrant applications. I'm sure the rebuild or replacement pump issue will take at least a day or three. The hydraulic pump tag says: Haldex Hydraulics, #50307, #1002211.

Yep, the engine side coupler half had all three ears sheared off. The center rubber spider was pretty well shredded. The pump side lower coupler half was severly worn. I will need a new coupler entirely.

So - do I try and locate a replacement drive (input) shaft for the hydraulic pump - OR - do I simply step up and locate a complete replacement pump? I haven't yet looked for either............. My first stop will likely be McMaster-Carr....

BarnieTrk

LD1 · Jul 10, 2020

Pictures of whats left?

You had to smack it pretty hard with the hammer /pickle fork to snap a shaft.

You are gonna be better served just getting a new pump. And given that it was paired to a 12hp engine....I'd assume thats a 16gpm 2-stage pump. Which sould run you about $150 + the coupling.

triptester · Jul 10, 2020

Pump parts are generally not available for these small pumps. The basic pumps have industry standard 4 bolt mounts although the intake port may vary to hose barb or threaded opening. Imported pumps generally have a aluminum body while most domestic pumps have all cast iron bodies. OEM prices can run as high as 300-400 dollars same pump after market name brand 150-200 dollars some even lower.

BarnieTrk · Jul 10, 2020

LD1,
I would have thought the same......"You had to smack it pretty hard with the hammer /pickle fork to snap a shaft."....but, I didn't. In addition, I was only using a carpenter's claw hammer, while I was lying on my side..and the pickle fork provided wedging on both sides of the shaft. The shaft was 1/2" diameter. Also consider that the pump was suspended from the two hoses - it's not like I had it against the concrete when I tapped/hit the pickle fork. I inspected the break; it didn't appear to have an old/rusted witness at a crack either. It does not seem likely, but that is what happened....

Yep, the OEM pump is a cast-iron bodied, 2-stage, 16-GPM unit.

triptester,
You are correct - exactly what I have been finding out- parts for this litttle pump are not really available.
Yep, it is a four bolt mounting flange. I need to match up the connections then pull the trigger on getting one coming this way. They look to be $170 to $220. I am aiming at a USA-made, cast-iron aftermarket pump.

I still need to get the top half of the coupling off of the vertical engine shaft. Then I can get the shaft diameter measurement and get a replacement coupler order as well. I bought some Full Synthtec motor oil for the engine this morning.

BarnieTrk

CoyPatton · Jul 10, 2020

BarnieTrk said:
LD1,
I would have thought the same......"You had to smack it pretty hard with the hammer /pickle fork to snap a shaft."....but, I didn't. In addition, I was only using a carpenter's claw hammer, while I was lying on my side..and the pickle fork provided wedging on both sides of the shaft. The shaft was 1/2" diameter. Also consider that the pump was suspended from the two hoses - it's not like I had it against the concrete when I tapped/hit the pickle fork. I inspected the break; it didn't appear to have an old/rusted witness at a crack either. It does not seem likely, but that is what happened....

Yep, the OEM pump is a cast-iron bodied, 2-stage, 16-GPM unit.

triptester,
You are correct - exactly what I have been finding out- parts for this litttle pump are not really available.
Yep, it is a four bolt mounting flange. I need to match up the connections then pull the trigger on getting one coming this way. They look to be $170 to $220. I am aiming at a USA-made, cast-iron aftermarket pump.

I still need to get the top half of the coupling off of the vertical engine shaft. Then I can get the shaft diameter measurement and get a replacement coupler order as well. I bought some Full Synthtec motor oil for the engine this morning.

BarnieTrk

Try a gear puller instead of the fork. I am guessing something similar to a ball joint fork. Coat the shaft and coupler connection down with penetrating oil. With some pressure on the puller, you can tap lightly on the coupler with s small hammer if it does not move readily with the puller.

WranglerX · Jul 10, 2020

Maybe something here for a pump....

2 Stage (Log Splitter) Pumps | Hydraulic Pumps | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Hydraulic Pumps | Northern Tool

Dale

BarnieTrk · Jul 10, 2020

CoyPatton said:
Try a gear puller instead of the fork. I am guessing something similar to a ball joint fork. Coat the shaft and coupler connection down with penetrating oil. With some pressure on the puller, you can tap lightly on the coupler with s small hammer if it does not move readily with the puller.

I was not able to get a gear puller in on top of the pump as it was attached to the inlet and outlet lines. Had I known the shaft would break so easily, I would have drained the hydraulic fluid tank and disconnected the lines to the pump, removing the pump from beneath the splitter and worked with getting the coupler off the shaft from on the workbench. Yes, the pickle fork is intended for tierod ends and smaller ball joint separation tasks.

I was able to use a gear puller on the upper coupler half attached to the engine (1" diameter) driveshaft. After the same heating, penetrating oil, heating, etc....the coupler half pulled off the shaft without too much effort.

DL Meisen,
Thanks for the source of a replacement pump. From Surplus Center
I'm considering the #9-7503-16 pump.
I would like to know if it is a cast-iron or aluminum bodied pump. Any one know if it is or not?
Any idea if it is USA-made?

BarnieTrk