Wooden Fence Posts
- Thread starter Medic6340
- Start date
- Views: 22400
ROUSTABOUT
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2008
- Messages
- 3,140
- Location
- Luther Willis Hill, AR
- Tractor
- Pettibone, Ford, Massey Ferguson, International, JD, David Bradley, home mades
Just cut the + out at corners of each square with bolt cutters. Stick the rod through the drive shaft to gearbox shear pin location. Bend both ends with a hammer and go back to drilling holes. When it shears it don't matter that you bent the ends because it falls off anyway. Need a hammer to drive piece out of gearbox shaft sometimes. Just use next pin for a punch to knock it out. Imagine how many drills I did on fencing 80 acres of pipe fence for an oil company owner.
ROUSTABOUT
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2008
- Messages
- 3,140
- Location
- Luther Willis Hill, AR
- Tractor
- Pettibone, Ford, Massey Ferguson, International, JD, David Bradley, home mades
Weld 5 pipes between posts around 80 acres. 3 strand? I do 5.Pipe fence posts sounds very nice and expensive. My neighbor was complaining about his 80acre fence done with green fence post and 3 lines of wire.
Thanks for the reply.
toolslinger
Silver Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2013
- Messages
- 135
- Location
- NJ / PA
- Tractor
- 2x Case 646, 2x 8N, MF202, JD300, Case 444, MF 135, JD 140
If you're going to buy an auger anyhow, I'd lean toward just using that. Where I'm at, it's rock. Try to drive a 1" solid steel pin in anywhere, and 1/4 of the time, it will simple stop dead on a rock. 1/2 the time it will kick to the side. That last 1/4 they will go in. So we haven't done too much fence over the years. I did set 50 or so 12' pipes for dear fence around a garden, and that took a PHD I built for a Case garden tractor based on a Little Beaver PHD to get them down and in concrete. We still get complements on that install from the neighbors, who all well know the ground/fence situation here...
That said, if your ground will take a post via pounding, then I'd be looking for that system on the used market. Sell it off when you're done. You can always do the repairs on your line by hand or auger as they come up, and then you don't have a piece you're not going to be using just hanging around deteriorating.
That said, if your ground will take a post via pounding, then I'd be looking for that system on the used market. Sell it off when you're done. You can always do the repairs on your line by hand or auger as they come up, and then you don't have a piece you're not going to be using just hanging around deteriorating.
Torvy
Super Member
Our fencing plan calls for a mix of tposts, with a wood post every 4th one, or so, and in the corners with a brace configuration. We will go with the auger. One of us on the tractor and the other lining it up. I've pounded t posts manually for smaller projects and even at 6'1", it can be a reach...not to mention the wear on my old body. I would consider a pounder, but the auger is more of a multitasker. We can also use it for planting trees and such.
Spike56
Platinum Member
I am not a "fence master", but have built a number of stretches over the years. FOR MY SOIL, I learned the hard way that you must concrete in the posts. I do not concrete in any *single* line posts (use a 4" every 3-4 T-posts), but if I include a bracer (2x4" with cross brace) in the line, I use some concrete. Of course, for the Corners... all are in concrete. After all the work to mark, drill, clean out the holes, I add some rock/gravel to the bottom prior to concreting them in.
If / When I did not do this, over a couple years, even the corners would move/lean. The clay soil I have is terrible in spots and swells / dries out and would move an 8" corner post without any concrete - and a MUST is get below the freeze line or the freeze thaw will push the post out.
It is a pain to dig the holes out after using the auger, add gravel to the bottom (making sure its below frost line) and then concrete. BUT, what is *way* worse is having to re-do it !
Torvy
Super Member
You shouldn't have to worry about the frost line in Texas unless you are putting in really short posts. The rule of thumb is 1/3 of the length of post is buried (2' on a 6' post). The deepest frost lines in Texas are up in the Panhandle and those are only about a foot. So, if you use the standard depth, even on a 6' post, you are going to be well below the frost line. Frost line in Central Texas is closer to 5".
Sawyer Rob
Super Member
Why ?, everyone I've seen/used has the drive line, sheer bolt protected, and I've yet to sheer even one bolt on the PHD I have now.
I did sheer a few on the cheapo PHD I use to have though, that thing was a POS!
SR
Spike56
Platinum Member
Well, you may be correct on the frost line requirements in Central Texas. But, using an 8' post, I have found that (with the clay) it better be in concrete and at least 3' in the ground. Perhaps not so much for a freeze, but the amount of tension on the posts. So, I stand corrected about the frost line, although if you do not use concrete and the ground shrinks around the post (which it does when dried out) it *seems* to be able to get water and freeze near the bottom of the post ?
There are fences all around where they did not bury the post deep enough or use concrete that are leaning or being pushed up out of the ground. So, maybe I am over doing it, but replacing a corner post on barbed wire fences is a real pain. Last fence I contracted with someone to do metal corners - the best, but I do not have a portable welder and all the tools (torch...) to do that out in the field.
jigs_n_fixtures
Veteran Member
If you have decent a timber supply, you could do jack fence. Just sits on top of the ground. Very common heart, as the ground is mostly big rocks with smaller rockets and clay. Digging or driving is impossible, and Lodge Pole Pines are very common and available.
It is readily visible to the animals, and you can see the property line for decades, even if it falls down.
labor intensive, but low cost if you have the suitable trees and are doing it your self.
And if your paying to board the horses at $1100/month it might be worth hiring a pro and getting it done quickly. If it cost $12,000, pay off is only 11-months.
It is readily visible to the animals, and you can see the property line for decades, even if it falls down.
labor intensive, but low cost if you have the suitable trees and are doing it your self.
And if your paying to board the horses at $1100/month it might be worth hiring a pro and getting it done quickly. If it cost $12,000, pay off is only 11-months.
