WoodMax SB-60 Rear PTO Snow Blower on Gravel Report

[KennK]

Last fall I purchased a WoodMax SB-60 rear PTO snow blower for use on my John Deere 3320 for use on my 600 feet of of gravel driveway in northern Wisconsin. Our snowfall over the past few winters was 61, 49, 53, 83, 96, and 73 inches (oddly, this winter we've only had 17 inches so far as we approach the end of January).

After the first snow accumulation I drove up/down the gravel drive with my pickup to pack down a base, and then when we got the next few inches of snow I had my first chance at using the snow blower. It didn't go well - the skid pads started digging through the base - likely because the initial base was not thick enough. The only way I could blow snow was the let the blower hang (skids in the air) and manually control the height to minimize touching gravel. It didn't go well.

We let the next few small snows accumulate, and finally on a somewhat warmer day (mid 20's F) used the pickup to pack down another base. This base looked much nicer - thicker.

Last weekend we had about 3-1/2 inches of snow. With some apprehension I headed out again with the snow blower. This time it worked amazingly well!! The skids floated along the base as I'd hoped, and there was no digging down to the gravel. Because the tractor has a hydrostatic transmission (not sure if that's the right word) the forward/backward pedals are on the right side, as are the PTO arm lift and chute rotation controls, so I had to rotate my body/neck to the right side. I found it best to start on the right side since I had the best view of that corner I could better gauge my location. I cleared the entire 600 foot length, drove back to the starting place, and was able to see the left cleared edge, and did it again. Three passes and the driveway was done.

I had the skids on the as-shipped height, which is less than 1 inch high. I'd flipped the cutting edge over as suggested in the WoodMax manual. I put the diamond type tire chains on the rear tires. Boy do they buck as I drive along!! I should have purchased the Euro-type. I'll get them at some point.

I have to say that I'm somewhat surprised by how quiet the snow blower is. It has a nice soft rhythmic sound that gets slightly louder as it enters heavier snow - like the stuff off the road plow.

When I was done I was a bit covered with snow, but oddly my glasses were pretty clear, and my 60+ year old arthritic neck was OK. I think the breaks driving back to the starting point helped with that.

When done I parked the snow blower in the sunshine while I used a broom and the clearing tool to clean it up. The sun helped a lot. I found that there enough play in the PTO driveline that before starting the tractor I can rotate the auger a bit to be sure that it is not frozen - just to be sure I don't shear a bolt for that reason.

Oh, one last thing ... I was concerned about how to lube the drive chain. I ended up using WD 40's Chain Lube spray (love their folding tubes!!), and I had my wife sit on the running tractor, apply the parking brake, raise the snow blower a bit, and turn on the PTO driveline. There is a small opening above the chain toward the front, and I was able to carefully stand to the side of the snow blower and spray both the top and bottom "layers" of chain as it rotates. It actually felt pretty safe - I made sure nothing was hanging down (hoodie ties ...).

 

[Reb954]

It sounds like you did good.

On the base, keep in mind that it isn't just having a base that is important, it is having the ground frozen underneath that base. I usually use my ATV to clear the first few minor storms so the snow isn't insulating the ground from freezing. Once the ground is frozen, the tractor comes out.

 

[vonnagyd]

Have the same problem with my SB-60 on gravel and have been trying to figure out a DIY better skid shoe to keep from digging in the gravel drive. Haven't discovered any other solution than packing drive down with the pickup for the first few snows to create a solid (frozen) base as you noted. The SB-60 moves a lot of snow and is quiet, well built. So far I have just greased the chain before the season and haven't detected a problem. It gets a little getting use to having to turn around on the seat to navigate going backwards.

 

[leonz]

Have the same problem with my SB-60 on gravel and have been trying to figure out a DIY better skid shoe to keep from digging in the gravel drive. Haven't discovered any other solution than packing drive down with the pickup for the first few snows to create a solid (frozen) base as you noted. The SB-60 moves a lot of snow and is quiet, well built. So far I have just greased the chain before the season and haven't detected a problem. It gets a little getting use to having to turn around on the seat to navigate going backwards.

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If you go to a welding shop they can make a large wide ski from strap steel that is longer than the snow blowers length and then
curve up on both ends of the skis and then you can avoid digging in the driveway.

They would have to make a new mount for the snow blower if the original steel is too thin to weld OR if they are made from cast iron.

 

[Like Tractors]

Last fall I purchased a WoodMax SB-60 rear PTO snow blower for use on my John Deere 3320 for use on my 600 feet of of gravel driveway in northern Wisconsin. Our snowfall over the past few winters was 61, 49, 53, 83, 96, and 73 inches (oddly, this winter we've only had 17 inches so far as we approach the end of January).

After the first snow accumulation I drove up/down the gravel drive with my pickup to pack down a base, and then when we got the next few inches of snow I had my first chance at using the snow blower. It didn't go well - the skid pads started digging through the base - likely because the initial base was not thick enough. The only way I could blow snow was the let the blower hang (skids in the air) and manually control the height to minimize touching gravel. It didn't go well.

We let the next few small snows accumulate, and finally on a somewhat warmer day (mid 20's F) used the pickup to pack down another base. This base looked much nicer - thicker.

Last weekend we had about 3-1/2 inches of snow. With some apprehension I headed out again with the snow blower. This time it worked amazingly well!! The skids floated along the base as I'd hoped, and there was no digging down to the gravel. Because the tractor has a hydrostatic transmission (not sure if that's the right word) the forward/backward pedals are on the right side, as are the PTO arm lift and chute rotation controls, so I had to rotate my body/neck to the right side. I found it best to start on the right side since I had the best view of that corner I could better gauge my location. I cleared the entire 600 foot length, drove back to the starting place, and was able to see the left cleared edge, and did it again. Three passes and the driveway was done.

I had the skids on the as-shipped height, which is less than 1 inch high. I'd flipped the cutting edge over as suggested in the WoodMax manual. I put the diamond type tire chains on the rear tires. Boy do they buck as I drive along!! I should have purchased the Euro-type. I'll get them at some point.

I have to say that I'm somewhat surprised by how quiet the snow blower is. It has a nice soft rhythmic sound that gets slightly louder as it enters heavier snow - like the stuff off the road plow.

When I was done I was a bit covered with snow, but oddly my glasses were pretty clear, and my 60+ year old arthritic neck was OK. I think the breaks driving back to the starting point helped with that.

When done I parked the snow blower in the sunshine while I used a broom and the clearing tool to clean it up. The sun helped a lot. I found that there enough play in the PTO driveline that before starting the tractor I can rotate the auger a bit to be sure that it is not frozen - just to be sure I don't shear a bolt for that reason.

Oh, one last thing ... I was concerned about how to lube the drive chain. I ended up using WD 40's Chain Lube spray (love their folding tubes!!), and I had my wife sit on the running tractor, apply the parking brake, raise the snow blower a bit, and turn on the PTO driveline. There is a small opening above the chain toward the front, and I was able to carefully stand to the side of the snow blower and spray both the top and bottom "layers" of chain as it rotates. It actually felt pretty safe - I made sure nothing was hanging down (hoodie ties ...).

I modified the optional skids that Land Pride offered for my SB1574 Snow Blower, they work slicker than snot on a rake handle on my gravel drive.

 

[TractorTYMe]

About lubing the chain, after lots of trial and error on what sticks the best to the chain? I tried WD40, m/c chain lube, ACF-50........I concluded good old fashion 80w90 gear ol dispensed while snowblower was running at idle from the bottle worked REALLY good.

 

[alexinPA]

Have the same problem with my SB-60 on gravel and have been trying to figure out a DIY better skid shoe to keep from digging in the gravel drive. Haven't discovered any other solution than packing drive down with the pickup for the first few snows to create a solid (frozen) base as you noted. The SB-60 moves a lot of snow and is quiet, well built. So far I have just greased the chain before the season and haven't detected a problem. It gets a little getting use to having to turn around on the seat to navigate going backwards.

I was thinking about replacing skids with hard rubber wheels. Anybody done that?

 

[nyone]

I just got a SS-60 (olver version of the SB-60) I have yet to use it but from years of plowing gravel driveways you dont ever want the plow to touch the gravel. Until you have 2in of compacted snow/ice leave the plow up. This is what I plan to do with my blower also.

I have tried skids on gravel plowing and they seem to just dig in and destroy the driveway.

 

[check]

It sounds like you did good.

On the base, keep in mind that it isn't just having a base that is important, it is having the ground frozen underneath that base. I usually use my ATV to clear the first few minor storms so the snow isn't insulating the ground from freezing. Once the ground is frozen, the tractor comes out.

Good point about the frozen ground. I also use my ATV for the first few snowfalls, and it also helps to pack the snow. Then outcomes my rear mount snowblower on my BX25.

 

[alexinPA]

I just got a SS-60 (olver version of the SB-60) I have yet to use it but from years of plowing gravel driveways you dont ever want the plow to touch the gravel. Until you have 2in of compacted snow/ice leave the plow up. This is what I plan to do with my blower also.

I have tried skids on gravel plowing and they seem to just dig in and destroy the driveway.

I replaced skids with 6 inch hard rubber tires from Tractor Supply. Worked good for me. Leaves about 2-2.5 inches from the ground

 

[nyone]

I replaced skids with 6 inch hard rubber tires from Tractor Supply. Worked good for me. Leaves about 2-2.5 inches from the ground

That sounds ideal. Have any pictures of this?

 

[Cycledude]

For lubing the chain I use used motor oil and apply it plenty thick with old paint brush.

 

[alexinPA]

That sounds ideal. Have any pictures of this?

 

[Mahindra26XL]

alexinPA, Last year I bought the WoodMaxx SB-48 and intended to adapt some casters to replace the skids. I was glad to see your reply above. Would you be willing to attach a photo or two showing how you modified the Tractor Supply rubber tires? This sounds like just what I had in mind. Thanks.

 

[Mahindra26XL]

Oops...sorry. I didn't see that you already attached photos on your 2nd page. Thank you.

 

[MiserableOldFart]

Interesting. I have a 60" Allied Plain old 3 pt. blower and I plow a little over a quarter mile or so. I never use the blower unless I have to, prefer to use the rear blade going forward in all but the heaviest snows. Haven't used the blower with the current NH Workmaster 40, but I never had a problem with it digging in with the older, smaller tractor. Do you change the length of the upper link at all? First thing I would try if digging in would be to shorten up on that and see how it goes.
When I first moved to the Catskills full time, we got a four foot snow that made the rear blade useless, and I had to dig out with the little 54" loader, on a limited supply of fuel. Not only did it feel like I was clearing a blizzard with a teaspoon, but the depth of the snow made it necessary for me to back up, sometimes 100 feet or more with each bucket so I could find a place to dump it. I got about halfway down to the road and the fuel was so low I decided to just leave the tractor there, call my cousin for a ride and take my 2 empty diesel cans down to the road, walking half of it in snow that was over my waist. Got the 10 gallons, left one at the bottom and lugged the other to the tractor, dumped 'er in and proceeded to clear a tractor width path to the bottom to get the other can. About a day and a half later I had enough cleared to get my truck down and proceed to go to town and fill the cans again.
That's when I swore to get a blower. I still use the rear blade about 90% of storms and try to get out and clear it every 4-8 inches or so. I can shoot up and down with the rear blade a couple times in about a half hour. With the blower, I could wait until the storm is over, but it would still take forever. I don't know how the blower will work with this tractor because it doesn't quite cover the rear wheels, which could be a problem, though I would have the slope working with me most of the way. Time will tell. Rear blade with shoes works great as long as it's not over 8" or so. I only wish that with the bigger tractor I had an 8 footer instead of 6. Maybe someday..

 

[leonz]

You would benefit by go ing to a metal fabrication shop and ask about buying some angle iron to make wings wide enough to pull in more
snow while clearing If they have the ability to bend the steel to a 45 degree angle for you it would help you a great deal.

You could have them drill 4 holes in each one and then attach it to your snow blower with vice grips and drill holes in the side weldments to
mount the angle iron using by fine thread nylock nuts and washers.

 

[Stonehaller]

Do you change the length of the upper link at all? First thing I would try if digging in would be to shorten up on that and see how it goes.

I used to have a place in northern Michigan where I used a 3-point blower on a gravel driveway. I have a hydraulic top link so I could adjust it as required to angle the blower skids to keep them from digging in. Worked well for me.

 

[Everhard]

A hydraulic top link transforms a rear blower. first few times I clear the driveway I tilt the blower back until the driveway (crushed asphalt in my case) is frozen, blower never digs in. then once the ground is frozen hard I can tilt it back down. I also clear a trail where the ground is undulating - I can tilt the blower up and down as needed to follow the ground.
A hydraulic top link is so useful for pretty much anything that hangs off the back I always recommend it as one of the first things to get if it doesn't come with the tractor.

E.

 

[bdhsfz6]

Like several others here, I leave the blower in the barn and use the FEL plow until the ground is frozen. Yeah, the FEL plow grabs the gravel too but it stays along the berm and is easier to rake back in the spring.