Woods backhoe sub frame problems

[hr3]

Ok I have a woods backhoe and the bolts that attach the subframe to the rear axel keep coming loose.. Last year I took them all out and cleaned the threads real good and lock tited them back in,,About 3 months later one was loose,, So I tightened it and welded all the heads to the subframe so they wouldn't come loose again,,

Well one just broke off again today,, ANY good ideas how I can fix this,???

 

[RoyJackson]

If you just tacked the bolt heads, grind down the tack and use an easy-out.
I suggest you use lockwashers next time, and make checking the bolt torque part of your routine.

 

[jimmysisson]

If you just tacked the bolt heads, grind down the tack and use an easy-out.
I suggest you use lockwashers next time, and make checking the bolt torque part of your routine.

+1 on checking torque. Would a nylock type nut stay tight? I've heard lock washers don't work so well.
Jim

 

[RoyJackson]

+1 on checking torque. Would a nylock type nut stay tight? I've heard lock washers don't work so well.
Jim

If they are through bolts. I thought they were in blind holes though...maybe the OP will confirm.
If he uses locknuts, I think he'll need longer bolts. You want at least one or two full threads through a lock nut.
Safest way might be to use longer bolts drilled for cotter keys and use castellated nuts.

 

[hr3]

Not through bolts they bolt into the alum axel housing.. I've used lock washers but to no avail.. As for torqueing I've had them come loose within a few hours with heavy use with the backhoe..

One that broke last year wouldn't come out so I put in a helicoil.. There is no shoulder on the bolts I'll try to find some that are but I'm still at a loss..

 

[RoyJackson]

Not through bolts they bolt into the alum axel housing.. I've used lock washers but to no avail.. As for torqueing I've had them come loose within a few hours with heavy use with the backhoe..

One that broke last year wouldn't come out so I put in a helicoil.. There is no shoulder on the bolts I'll try to find some that are but I'm still at a loss..

Since you wrote you have an aluminum axle housing, it's possible those threads are working. You might consider putting some type of solid insert (rather then a helicoil) in there. Before you do this, I suggest you contact the Woods engineering department and see what they suggest.

 

[Zebrafive]

Is it possible to install studs? You might have position the sub frame then install the studs thru it into your axle housing. I would be worried about stripping the threads of the axle housing using bolts. Studs will not be twisting in the axle housing threads. I think you could get higher torque on studs safely vs bolts. There are also various ways to lock the nuts on the studs, such as using castle nuts and cotter pins.

 

[Baby Grand]

Are you using a torque wrench to install the bolts?
Broken bolts is usually a sign of either overtorque, which results in excessive bolt preload or flange separation due to undertorque.

 

[hr3]

Is it possible to install studs? You might have position the sub frame then install the studs thru it into your axle housing. I would be worried about stripping the threads of the axle housing using bolts. Studs will not be twisting in the axle housing threads. I think you could get higher torque on studs safely vs bolts. There are also various ways to lock the nuts on the studs, such as using castle nuts and cotter pins.

I like the stud idea,, should I locktite the crap out of them if I put some in???

 

[hr3]

Are you using a torque wrench to install the bolts?
Broken bolts is usually a sign of either overtorque, which results in excessive bolt preload or flange separation due to undertorque.

Good idea I just looked in the book on the hoe and it dosn't even show the subframe.. ??

 

[RickB]

The subframe has its own model designation and manual.

 

[Ductape]

This may be completely irrelevant, but as I recall a couple members had a similar problem years ago. It may have been Vic4news, but this is a real stretch on my memory banks. Anyway.... the newer Woods subframes came with a new bracket on either side to tie into where the ROPS bolts to the rear axle housing (mine does not have this either). Vic4news (or whomever was having the same problem) contacted Woods, and they sent him just the bracket..... he had it welded on himself. This relieves alot of the stress where the subframe bolts to the ends of your axle housing. Now..... this was on a B3030, but perhaps this applies to the newest subframes on the 7610 also ??? Or perhaps even the ones for a B3030 could be added to yours (assuming it would bolt to your ROPS mount)?

 

[Zebrafive]

I like the stud idea,, should I locktite the crap out of them if I put some in???

I would since you can heat the aluminum easily if you ever need to remove them. Just don't heat it hot enough to melt it

 

[RoyJackson]

I would since you can heat the aluminum easily if you ever need to remove them. Just don't heat it hot enough to melt it

You want to make sure you don't heat it enough to lose the temper.

Here's a trick I saw quite a few years ago...using oxy-acetylene rig. Turn the acetylene on, but no oxygen. Use the torch to "soot" the area you want to heat, then add the oxygen and set the ratio as you normally would. Once the soot burns off, that's as hot as you want to go.
A rosebud tip is best, BTW...

 

[sixdogs]

...

...

Before you do this, I suggest you contact the Woods engineering department and see what they suggest.

There is the starting point. Call Woods.
When I had a problem with my old Ford 1900 and 3-pt mounted model, they helped me in a big way and (may have) saved me from a disaster.
Very often "doing something" before thinking all the way can cause even more problems.

 

[nickel plate]

Woods Equipment Company: 800-319-6637.

 

[hr3]

The backhoe is off for now so I think I'll call them on monday,,, I'll keep you posted..