Woods Stump Grinder

[TSO]

My rear remotes are controlled with a lever right next to my seat. Pulling the lever in either direction will switch flow direction. I use this lever right now to control my snowblower deflector either up or down. I just called surplus center and he said that the valve I posted will work. He also directed me to an electric version which I like. I like the one TSO posted also. Just unsure about my ports lining up with it. I asked surplus center about flow restrictors for the hoses and he said he does not carry them.

First, my ports would not line up directly either, so I installed my actual hydraulic lines for my remote directly into the diverter, & I made my own mounting brackets for the diverter. I have a thread on here from last year where I did this, look through my started threads and you should find it.

and for clarification regarding operation, let me try to explain. I grind a lot of stumps. not only for myself but also commercially. Many times, you will find that you need an immediate, & I truly mean immediate, flexibility to either swing the boom left or right, or lift the wheel up or down. more specifically, you will find that you need the availability to lift the wheel in a split second so you don't bury the grinder or bog the engine when the grinder plunges after it hits a soft spot in the stump and you end up literally biting off more than you can chew.

the way I routed mine, is that my remote lever naturally operates the boom swing from right to left and back. When I press the button that comes with the diverter kit, which I mounted onto my remote lever, it instantaneously changes the flow to the opposite diverter valve, and keeps that flow directed until you release the button, and then it returns to the natural left or right swing. so, in an instant, by pressing the button where your thumb is already resting on the remote lever, you then pull back on your remote lever and it lifts the grinder. to return the grinder down you simply push forward on your remote lever with your thumb still on the button. As soon as you release the button, it instantly switches back to the other diverter side, and your remote lever controls left and right again. it amazes me how quickly the diverter switches positions for you, and once you get the hang of it, it is thoughtless and absolutely instantaneous.

I was a little skeptical at first, wondering if the $500 would be money well spent, but boy am I glad that I went with this diverter, & I truly would not want to grind stumps without it. It is well worth the money.

and, I apologize for the lack of capital letters in this post, apparently my speech to text on my phone doesn't want to make capital letters today.

 

[Tompet]

The electric one surplus sells is a stripped down version for $309 vs $500. I cannot find the adj flow restrictors on Surplus website.

Surplus Center


Check out this reference on valve with one remote and stump grinder. I almost bought this Baumalight which I liked at the time. Anyway, I thought you may find this interesting in your case, if it applies.

BaumaLight - 3 Point Hitch Stump Blaster Models - Stump Grinder Features

 

[TSO]

Here it is..

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308102

 

[Tompet]

Hey thanks TSO for the description of the electric valve. Now I have to read your other link and figure out how to apply all the info!

 

[TSO]

No prob. I will even say, that even if I had a second set of factory remotes, I would still prefer to use the electric diverter with the grinder and split the 1 remote, specifically because of the instantaneous directions changes.

 

[liberty2701]

TSO
I think you convinced me to go the electric route. Thanks

 

[TSO]

TSO
I think you convinced me to go the electric route. Thanks

Yeah... I like spending other people's money lol

But seriously, for most other applications where you want to split a single set of remotes into two sets, I would say the manual diverter for less money would be a fantastic route. But in this situation, and it may be one of the only situations where it applies, you really benefit from having that instantaneous control. in the grand scheme of things, when you're already spending several thousand on the grinder, spending a couple hundred more to get the more appropriate tool makes logical sense.

 

[foggy1111]

Been some time since I looked at this old thread.

One thing I would recommend is to operate your stump grinder hydraulic cylinders via your loader joystick valve. That would require either removing your loader or using other hydraulic lines to operate the loader. I just used the rear ports and scv valve to operate the lift cylinders and that worked for me.

Operating the stump grinder with the joystick valve is VERY fast and quite intuitive during operation. Works better than a bunch of levers and switches.....IMO.

I likely need to overhaul my grinders joints now. Seems they got loose and sloppy....which makes the grinder jump around too much now. Results in a stalled tractor too often.

I got over 2000 stumps ground from my property with my grinder......so I suppose the joint issue is par for the course.....still.....I wish the joints had held up better.

I still have the original teeth on my unit. The cutting head seems bullet-proof.......I wish I could say the same for the joints.

 

[foggy1111]

I had my property "logged off" this year......and took about 60% of the remaining pine timber off this land. I got more work to do now.....so I better get those joints up to speed this spring. I have broken one of my drag links twice now.....and I attribute this to the stump grinder. I had the link welded to repair the first time......but replaced it the second time it happened. $300 - ouch.

One can exert allot of pressure with that swing cylinder......and you need to be aware of the pressure you can exert.....lest it cost you.

They took over 10,000 trees off my land.......stump henge. Grin. I doubt I will grind 500 of them and I am done grinding for a while.

 

[Reg]

Been some time since I looked at this old thread.

One thing I would recommend is to operate your stump grinder hydraulic cylinders via your loader joystick valve. That would require either removing your loader or using other hydraulic lines to operate the loader. I just used the rear ports and scv valve to operate the lift cylinders and that worked for me.

Operating the stump grinder with the joystick valve is VERY fast and quite intuitive during operation. Works better than a bunch of levers and switches.....IMO.

I likely need to overhaul my grinders joints now. Seems they got loose and sloppy....which makes the grinder jump around too much now. Results in a stalled tractor too often.

I got over 2000 stumps ground from my property with my grinder......so I suppose the joint issue is par for the course.....still.....I wish the joints had held up better.

I still have the original teeth on my unit. The cutting head seems bullet-proof.......I wish I could say the same for the joints.

Interesting that the joints are going on yours.
Mine seems to be beating itself up (I'm beating it up) at the "ear" that the right side lower lift arm attaches to.
It has bent backwards towards the grinder wheel, which has put quite an angle on the lift pin.

I'd guess (& HOPE) that you can get a bunch of bushings to rehab those joints - well, you've probably already DONE it by now ?
Please update ?