Woods tgs50 stump grinder need advice!

foggy1111 · Apr 17, 2012

kennyd said:
It has one input and two outputs, and it can select only one output at a time. It cannot control a cylinder by itself since it is not a "valve" per say...

It is just like this: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6134&catname=hydraulic

Now I see. I beleive this would be too time comsuming for the way I like to operate. I like where both hydraulic functions are available to do minor tweaks on demand. Maybe an electic diverter would be OK...but to me, a manual would require too many hands.

Glad to understand how that valve works.....and glad I chose the joystick valve to operate mine. :thumbsup:

Ductape · Apr 17, 2012

foggy1111 said:
Now I see. I beleive this would be too time comsuming for the way I like to operate. I like where both hydraulic functions are available to do minor tweaks on demand. Maybe an electic diverter would be OK...but to me, a manual would require too many hands.

Glad to understand how that valve works.....and glad I chose the joystick valve to operate mine. :thumbsup:

Exactly why I was surprised Dave's valve turned out to be a manual diverter. It would just be 'un-natural' to operate one that way. Make a sweep from right to left with a remote. Sweep back. Pull the manual diverter lever. Go back to the remote and drop the grinder a few inches. Pull the diverter lever back to the original position.... then go back to the remote lever and make another sweep.

Way too much having to think about it... especially with an attachment as potentially dangerous as a stump grinder. (imagine having to process all that if a dog, or child came running over to see what you were doing)

Dave, I feel your best options are:

1)Remove the manual diverter and replace with a two spool valve attached to the grinder. Power that valve with your new power beyond loop. (this would be my second choice)

2)Add dual rear remotes to your tractor, and not use any valve attached to the grinder. I doubt a factory dual remote kit is available from New Holland, so this will likely be a custom set-up. (this would be my first choice, but would also be most $$$)

3)Add a single rear remote valve (possibly available from New Holland, if not a custom job) and keep the manual diverter. ( I would never do it this way)

4) Add a single rear remote valve, and run it through an electric / hydraulic diverter with a momentary switch and scrap the manual diverter. (this would be my third choice)

5)Have some hoses made to connect to one pair of your quick connects for your loader. If your curl circuit has a 'regen' circuit, I would use the loader up / down circuit... and connect those to your manual diverter. Keep in mind that you obviously lose the use of your loader when the SG is plugged in. ( again, I would never plumb one this way)

6)Have four hoses made to connect to your loader's quick connects, and use the loader valve to control the movement of the SG, ditching the manual diverter valve. Keep in mind that if your curl function has a regen circuit, one of the SG movements will be rather funky to operate smoothly. (this would be my fourth choice, but only until I had the money to complete choice one or two. Imagine turning back to watch the SG, while reaching forward to the loader mast to reach your loader valve.) Again, you lose all loader function until you swap the hoses around again.

Foggy runs his SG off of his loader valve, however, his loader valve is at his right hip, not forward on the loader mast.

Am I missing any other reasonable choices??

Hopefully someone here will correct me if I'm missing / forgetting something.

foggy1111 · Apr 17, 2012

Good advice Ductape. :thumbsup:

One other thing to consider would be adding one set of rear remotes to the tractor (if these are available for a reasonable price). Then you could operate one cylinder off the new remotes and operate the other cylinder off the curl valve on the loader.

The method described above would be very dependant on the location of the operator valves and handles. (Ductape notes this location in his description - but I am unfamiliar with the tractor in question.) Maybe a handle extension??

I'd be inclined to follow the preferred methods by Ductape above....but it could get expensive / complicated?

One thing about grapples, log splitters and stump grinders is that you better PLAN for the hydrualic funtions BEFORE you purchase the implements.

Ductape · Apr 17, 2012

foggy1111 said:
Good advice Ductape. :thumbsup:

I'd be inclined to follow the preferred methods by Ductape above....but it could get expensive / complicated?

One thing about grapples, log splitters and stump grinders is that you better PLAN for the hydrualic funtions BEFORE you purchase the implements.

I was hoping we could get him throwing chips for the cost of a couple hydraulic hoses and some quick connects, but unfortunately it wasn't that simple.

NYTZ22DA · Apr 17, 2012

Well I just got done making wood chips! My main goal was to keep the FEL on the tractor. With that said I did some thinking today while at work and came up with a plan. After work today I got two 3/8" by 10' hoses and connected them from the switching valve on the grinder to the curl ports on the FEL. Now I operate the grinder with the FEL control. With the switching valve in it operates the sweep, with it out it operates the up&down. I know its not the perfect way to operate it but I really wanted to try the stump grinder today. With my tractor being so small the controllers are so close it makes very easy to use. I ground three stumps today in about 30min they were about 10" and soft wood. I had all the power I needed. Kind of funny I saw J J's post after I already did what he said. I want to give you guys a HUGE thanks for all your help. I am a DIY kind of guy and this was all new to me. As you can tell I now know enough to be dangerous. I will try to return the favor by posting pictures and some videos.

Thanks, Dave.