Woodsplitter build #2

[6sunset6]

Forgot the camera.
Ran the 5 hp motor on a 20a cb with #12 wire. No load started and ran fine.
I will probably still run it on a 30A # 10 service line though.
Cut some more steel plate for cylinder anchor and web stiffeners. Wire brushed and primed the beam. I don't paint much so I use spray cans. I lose my marks on dirty steel. I do use a paint stick for rough marking but for laying out cuts and drilling I like scribe lines. Also , even though I have a 200A AC welder and have been poking rods at things for years, I tend to like to bolt first time build if at all possible. Making corrections is a little easier. SO there are only a couple of places welded on the beam The cylinder anchor is bolted.
The anchor web stiffeners are welded. The base plate for the box wedge is welded but the box wedge itself is bolted. Probably the log lift base is welded as well as the valve mount. Anyway I decided to prime the beam so I could avoid wire brushing hard to reach places later. Getting ready to order valves and the cylinder as soon as Burden Surplus answers a question about a PB plug. Like how to order it.

 

[6sunset6]

Welded fork pockets and feet on the beam. Did not follow my own advise to bolt first and weld later. I tacked the legs on and during a rotate a clamp slipped and a leg hit the floor and broke off . So in a moment of panic I welded the legs on better. Only thing is now when it is right side up I cannot move it.
I like to move it to the big door for welding. I can always turn it upside down to move it. It rolls pretty easy in the slings.
Tank arrived. I am contemplating how to mount it . Like shown I will need a valve in the suction line , otherwise have to dump the tank to work on the pump. Or I could put the tank down and the pump on top. After all suction works. Notice that pile of 4 x 4 in one of the pictures. That is 1/2 of what I have for a project on the Appalacian Trail. Pre fabing handrail posts for 300 ft of handrail on a walkway /bridge 5ft high. I have so many volunteer hours I got a hat. The crew is coming over to work on the posts Monday ( all retired volunteers like me) but for 1 guy who is a paid fire fighter. I said I would provide lunch . Brats. So between Thanksgiving, and posts work on the splitter is going to be a little slow. I think I am going to grind off the legs and weld them to a plate and bolt the plate on. Then I can move it with out rotating.

 

[6sunset6]

I am an idiot. The reason I have fork pockets is so I can move the thing right side up. I only have to rotate it to weld on the bottom. I cannot weld upside down very well. I think I only have one plat to weld upside down, the base for the wedge attach. SO I think the legs are good except for adding a brace across them.
I have some hydraulic questions about flow but I will post them in hydraulics.

 

[6sunset6]

I have not been sleeping. Just cutting plate on the saw , milling edges, researching welding ( that's a whole other set of issues) waiting for parts.
UPS dumped 5 boxes in the last two days , including a camera I can put in my pocket. That's how I took the following pictures. Got valves from Surplus, cylinder is on backorder 12-10. Got plumbing fittings from DHH, Some on backorder there as well. I purposely did not order all fittings I needed as they have a $20 min and there are bound to be some changes. Got a piece of Grader blade from Discount Steel. Not cheap but exactly the right piece for what I am doing. 30d bevel off the flat on one side. I got 36" 18 for the top leading edge of the box and the rest for 3 verticals inside the box. I though it would be machined but it is hot rolled. The bottom plate of the box wedge is 18" wide and 12 deep. The top is 18" wide and maybe 16 deep, it is the split out table. I had some 5/8 plate I could have burned out the pieces from but them I found some 3/4 drops at the steel yard and figuired I could weld them together. SO I spent some time milling a 60d bevel on one edge of 3 pieces , actually almost 48" of bevel. Thats for a butt weld. Once I started that bevel I had to keep going. Thats the bottom plate. For the top plate I decided to bevel both sides, i.e top and bottom of both butting plates. It's 4 passes on the mill instead of 2 but smaller bites each time. I only have the grader blade piece to do 18" twice. I stripped the teeth right off a brand new Milwaukee hole saw about 1/8 into a plate. Right after I took that
picture. HD will probably replace it. I had to go to a boring head and chipped a carbide boring bar. Must be some reallt hard junk in that plate. I like to use shaft collars. They are cheap , accurate and square. I line up the shaft collars, tack them and then line up everything else with the shaft in place and tack . In the pictures everything is tacked and the 1 1/4 shafts move freely. I guess tomorrow I will be cutting more 1/2 plate for gussets on the splitter box base. I also have to get started on the power pack. I think I have enough fittings to start roughing out where everything goes in the frame. Whoops I have to wire brush that frame and prime it first. I built that frame 40 years ago for a speed reducer to run a shaper. Sold the shaper and then used the speed reducer to turn a spit for roasting pigs. Those were the days. So now it gets recycled again for a hydraulic power supply.

 

[6sunset6]

skipped the hole saw picture

 

[toxicjeeper]

Thanks for the pics..looks like you are making lots of progress...Man you have a lot of nice equipment..I would love to have a mill..:thumbsup:

Curious..what size hydrolic tank is in that pic? 10g?

 

[6sunset6]

22gal but you can only get 18 in it. Sized to upgrade to 22 gpm if required at some point.
I married ,the first time, late so I had a lot of years to collect stuff. Marriage did not last real long so I had more time. Second time I guess is a charm, been over 20 years now. But less time and money for tools. Good thing I got it all a long time ago. I did manage to squeeze out a tractor a couple of years ago.
I would like a DC welder I have a Lincoln 225 AC Had it for 40 years paid $100 for it. I am only saying that because everyone says DC is so much better. I have no idea I have never welded with DC .
I use 1/8 6011 rod for almost everything. Just got some 5/32 MG 500 for the 3/4 plates on the splitter. Looks like it's the same as 6013 . Will post when I try it. I have been thinking about how to clamp and weld those big plates. I have had the most success with preventing distortion by clamping but then doing short, 2 inch , welds equally spaced across the joint. Like one end then the other end then the middle then start splitting the spaces. I have seen on you tube I one side vee butt weld done from one end to the other with no clamping . I would hate to do that and end up with a pretzel.
I have to find something bigger than the plates to clamp them too. Wow off the track from how big is the tank.

 

[Scooby074]

Looks good!!

I have a Hate - Hate relationship with holesaws. Nothing worse than taking the teeth off a $25 holesaw 30 seconds into the hole. If i had a mill (someday, hopefully) or a mag drill id look at running a Rotobroach.They work so much better than holesaws it aint funny.

Love the bandsaw too. Its on the list as well. :thumbsup:

 

[6sunset6]

How do you get the slug out of the roto broach. They are expensive especially when you have to buy the holder the first time.
Todays work was welding the base plate used 2 # of 5/32 MG 500 rod. Nice rod once I got up to 145A and stopped making voids. This was the 60d bevel on one side. I won't do that again. I clamped it down pretty good but one side warped up a bit. I think I can work around it.
I also beveled the grader blade 60d but shallower and both sides. When I weld that not only clamp it well but keep flipping it from side to side and alternating welds end to end etc. Out of rod till Monday.

 

[Scooby074]

How do you get the slug out of the roto broach. They are expensive especially when you have to buy the holder the first time.
Todays work was welding the base plate used 2 # of 3/32 MG 500 rod. Nice rod once I got up to 145A and stopped making voids. This was the 60d bevel on one side. I won't do that again. I clamped it down pretty good but one side warped up a bit. I think I can work around it.
I also beveled the grader blade 60d but shallower and both sides. When I weld that not only clamp it well but keep flipping it from side to side and alternating welds end to end etc. Out of rod till Monday.

Theres a spring on the pilot that prevents the slug from going up inside the cutter. The slug never really goes beyond the teeth of the cutter.

Yes i agree its kinda expensive., but so is burning through holesaws Ill freely admit to not having to pay for the tools, but just the lack of frustration and speed alone make a mag drill worth it.

Watch Ebay. There are some deals to be found. All you need is an adaptor and a couple cutters to get started since you already have a mill.

Being able to do stuff like this is sooo nice. I really miss having access to such machines.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Npu7axwsJ0c&feature=related[/ame]