Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone)

   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone) #41  
I've not sheared any bolts, but I've sure buried the wedge in some gnarly stuff at times.

Mine is on a 4X4X1/4 square tube, and mounts on my box blade. What do you mean by "box splitter," sunset?
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone)
  • Thread Starter
#42  
I've not sheared any bolts, but I've sure buried the wedge in some gnarly stuff at times.

Mine is on a 4X4X1/4 square tube, and mounts on my box blade. What do you mean by "box splitter," sunset?

Im sure sunset will be back, but i believe hes refering to a box style wedge, like the timberwolf TW7. A great design for someone that does smaller splits.

TW7NoAutocycleWithWood.jpg
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone) #43  
I see. I operate in such a wide range of sizes that I have to have both horizontal and vertical capabilities. I'm just about to drop a 100'+ alder that's 2'+ on the stump. I drop much bigger than that at times. I guess I'm stuck with handling every split. But that's what I'm used to.

BucknSplit_009.jpg
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone) #44  
Im sure sunset will be back, but i believe hes refering to a box style wedge, like the timberwolf TW7. A great design for someone that does smaller splits.

TW7NoAutocycleWithWood.jpg

Yup thats it but a little bigger than the timberwolf ( 3 x 3 )maybe 6" high by 5 wide. Partly based on Northern tool wedge at 6 by 12. cut in half for 2 verticals. I already have one. The top will be a 5/8 plate I have. 24 x 24 .
I will burn out 16 x 16 and have to set it in my mill to get the taper on the top of one edge. I have two plates like that so plenty of material.
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone)
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Splitter season again.

Did a few mods and repairs including installing a new pump and autocycle valve under warranty. I also put additional support for the tank and motor mounts.

Straightened and re-enforced the tube outfeed. Previously it was regularly bent when wood would come off the wedge and catch the edge. The ramp/re-enforcement is made out of 1/4" thick steel

IMG_4318.jpg


IMG_4319.jpg


Painted and labeled control levers. This should cut down on grabbing the log lift lever and launching logs into orbit! I hope :)

IMG_4315.jpg



I also built a 3' outfeed extension. Hopefully this will get spits out further from my work area and allow me to get a bigger mound of splits before having to stack

IMG_4310.jpg
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone) #46  
Evidence of a good evening in the shop !!:thumbsup:

IMG_3486.jpg
[/QUOTE]

I only see 1 grinding disk and a bunch of empties. :licking: Sign of a good welder!! For me, it would be 6 disks and 2 beers (well okay 6 beers).

:drink:
Cheers,

Paul
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone) #47  
How much travel is on the wedge lift and how is it configured around the beam? I've been wanting to build a box attachment for my splitter if I ever finish my shop project. I didn't split any wood at all last year but this year I am almost out of split wood and will have to get busy before long. Still 90 degrees here but it won't be long before it cools down a little and the copperheads go into the ground.

The worst part of splitting wood is having to handle it 4 or 5 times and I can see a multi edge splitter box and a log lifter would cut down on handling times a bunch. Also a conveyer would be really nice to carry it away from the splitter table. I like the add on table that should help a lot I know the one I added to mine really did help my setup.

Great job on the splitter plenty of good ideas for my next build but I think my next one will have a cut off saw incorporated in there somewhere. It seems to me handling logs would be easier than handling the round cut offs. I had about 50 cut off pieces that I had to move the other day and it took 2 hours to move them to the wood pile using the root rake/graffel. It would have been easier to roll 3 or 4 pieces into the bucket but the snakes have been really bad around here for some reason this year I guess it because of all the wood I have laying around all over the place and the large population of mice for them to munch on.
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone)
  • Thread Starter
#48  
I think the wedge lift cyl has 6" of travel.

Eventually, I hope to have this turned into a firewood processor. Its designed so that I can add a feed trough without too much issue (I hope). The only thing really holding me back is trying to find a hydraulic saw motor.
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone)
  • Thread Starter
#49  
Putting these troubleshooting and adjustment instructions for the autocycle valves here for future reference :D:

5. Auto Cycle Valve Detent Adjustment
Before adjusting the Detents, it is important to note the following:
1. The auto Cycle Valve should not be set to start into a piece of wood on its own. It is necessary to hold handles manually when you start into
the wedge. Once the piece of wood begins to split you can let go of the handles and the valve will function automatically. If you turn the for-
ward detent in far enough to start into a piece of wood on its won, the cycle will Not function properly.
2. Normally it is necessary to adjust both detents to make the auto cycle work properly.
3. Make all adjustments when the splitter is at normal operating temperature.
The detents to each spool on the auto cycle must be adjusted periodically, depending upon its use. Below are some guidelines for trouble shoot-
ing. (Note: left and right side of the valve are determined by looking at the valve from the wedge end.)
Problem: The cylinder will not extend completely on normal wood.
Solution: Adjust the detent on the left side of the valve by turning the screw clockwise in ¼ turn increments until the handle will stay forward
through the entire stroke. (Note: If the engine slows down excessively in order to kick lever to the neutral position, you have turned the detent
too far.
Problem: The cylinder will not return all the way.
Solution: Turn the right detent clockwise by ¼ turn increments until the cyclinder will return on its own.
Problem: When the cylinder completes the outward stroke both handles kick to neutral.
Solution: Turn the detent on the left side counterclockwise. (Too much pressure on the forward detent will cause both handles to return to the
neutral position.) Turn right detent clockwise to increase the spring pressure. (If you turn this detent too far handle will not kick back at end of
stroke.)
Problem: The right or left handles will not kick back to the neutral position.
Solution: Turn detent counter clockwise by ¼ turn increments. If this does not work, remove the entire detent assembly and check for dirt or
broken parts.
 
   / Woodsplitter Build (Timberwolf clone) #50  
Hard to see in your pictures, but one thing I learned with my crosswedge setup, is to have the secondary spit (horizontal) happen further back than the primary (vertical). I just rebuilt my setup from a drop on from Northern Tool, to a permanent welded setup. It made a HUGE difference in how it works!

This lets it get good and popped in the Primary direction before it loads the hydraulics again with the Secondary direction.

2013-02-04 18.43.21.jpg

See it in action here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4NHS5C3wSI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-Dvn7aHsNM
 
 
Top