Work Lights

[Dude Man]

Hi, I am trying to find some halogen work lights to put on my tractor cab. It is a Curtis Hard Side Cab with the 3/8" holes drilled in already. I already have the switch and wiring too with bullet connectors to go to the light. I can change the type of connection if needed. Any suggestions would help with a description and price.

thanks
dude man.

 

[kennyd]

I put 4 3x5 trapezoidal lights on my tractor from Messicks. These are high quality lights with very sturdy mounting hardware-not the stuff you'd find at Wally-World.

 

[mjncad]

I put two Peterson 4" x 6" trapezoids and two 4" x 6" floods on mine, and I got them from Northern Tool.

 

[RFB]

I just put a pair of these OPTRONICS COMPETITION SERIES DRIVING LIGHTS - CarParts Quality Discount Parts and Accessories on my 5030.

I am highly impressed. They put out at least twice the light as my OEM Kubota work lights that I replaced. The write up on them on the web page is wrong. They are 50 watt MR16 bulbs; very bright and they come with wiring and switch. Can't beat the price either.

(since I was already wired and switched, I was plug and play.)

I am buying a second set to replace my rear oem Kubota work lights. I got the idea of mr16 work lights after I saw them on a Deere dozer.

 

[mjncad]

That's the first time I've seen MR16 bulbs used in vehicle applications.

 

[RFB]

They are 12 volt mr16's. A clean and bright adaptation; like I said, I am getting more for the rear work lights...twice as bright as kubota oems.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Anyone having a problem with the globes going out of the lights? Maybe my tractor is a rough ride but my lamps have burned out twice in a year...

 

[WilliamBos]

And what about a set or work lights, or 1 real bright one that has an on/off switch on it? This way we can wire it in to the headlights, and only turn them on when we need.

 

[kthompson]

Anyone having a problem with the globes going out of the lights? Maybe my tractor is a rough ride but my lamps have burned out twice in a year...

Is this the only thing burning out of could your voltage be high? At same time are you sure they are burnt out and not a loose connection? I replaced a few tail light bulb before I realized the bulbs were fine and it was a connection issue. kt

 

[PILOON]

What I find works real good is the 'driving or white halogen fog lights' that often are offered at auto parts or maybe WallMart at about $10-15. per pair! (usually blister packed)

Being 'fog lights' they put out a flat wide beam that is 'just right'. So much so that I only need one front and back and my entire work space is well lit.
Before I needed 2 front and 2 back of the old metal tractor work lights that always ended up rotting/rusting to death.
Also the 4" tractor light sealed beams actually cost more than the driving/fog assemblies.

Trick is to find the clear ones and not yellow.

Also the hallogens put out more light per watt than the old sealed beams!

 

[artfull dodger]

Here is a pic of my work lights, 1 Hobbs halogen flood lamp and a metorlite single pulse strobe to make sure others see me when I am clearing drives with the snowthrower. Tractor is a JD 316 that I just repowered with a low hour Onan P218 as the old B43E was trashed. Cheers Mike

 

[Zephrant]

I just put a pair of these OPTRONICS COMPETITION SERIES DRIVING LIGHTS - CarParts Quality Discount Parts and Accessories on my 5030.

Thanks for that link- exactly what I was looking for. Small lights that don't take up a lot of room. I've also got a bunch of MR-16 bulbs laying around at various focus angles for the track lighting in my house, so that is handy.

Do they look sealed/waterproof? I bought some small/cheap lights from Northern Tool and it turns out the lenses are hot-glued on, and there is a big drain hole in the bottom of them, so back they go.

 

[germ-X]

nice addition to your JD 316. let us know how well it works out for you.

 

[MJPetersen]

I've also got a bunch of MR-16 bulbs laying around at various focus angles for the track lighting in my house, so that is handy.

The MR 16 bulbs are available in 12 volt and 110 volt versions (here 220 v). But most significantly, especially with the lower alternator output of small tractors, they come in LEDs also. A MR 16 LED will draw only 1.2 watts or .1 amps verses the 20 to 50 watts of a halogen or standard incandescent bulb.

Mike

 

[Zephrant]

I saw that too- I was considering it, but was concerned that they would not be bright enough. Have you tried one yet?

 

[MJPetersen]

I saw that too- I was considering it, but was concerned that they would not be bright enough. Have you tried one yet?

Check out the thread where I chronicle my experiments. I think that the MR 11 LED bulbs (1.1 watts) that I used are far brighter than the original 25/35 watt bulbs. I have experimented with the BA 15s (replacement for 1156/7) and am going to look for a round housing for them. There is a lot of potential with the LEDs for those who have lower output alternators.

Also there is the thread which is titled "LED Headlights" but ranges into work lights also.

Mike

 

[Zephrant]

Thanks Mike- I had been following those too, but had forgotten that you had tried MR16 style bulbs in the 20w flavor.

BTW- I've decided you are a bad influence. Because of your DIY threads I now think I can build my own things like a quick-hitch, and maybe a cab. So far you've cost me $600 for a good metal band-saw, and I'm about to go buy a welder and take a welding class.

So thanks for your write-ups. When I get started, I'll post my projects too.

 

[MJPetersen]

Thanks Mike- I had been following those too, but had forgotten that you had tried MR16 style bulbs in the 20w flavor.

The MR 16's are too big in diameter (50 mm 2 in.)to fit in the headlight housing for my tractor, but I used the MR 11's (35 mm 1 7/16 in.). I used the LED versions so they were a WHOLE lot less than 20 watt, more like 1.1 watts.

BTW- I've decided you are a bad influence. Because of your DIY threads I now think I can build my own things like a quick-hitch, and maybe a cab. So far you've cost me $600 for a good metal band-saw, and I'm about to go buy a welder and take a welding class.

Boy did I laugh about this. You know it is sort of like revenge--if I can get someone else infected with this disease then I can justify myself. I have a lot of others on this forum to blame for my tool expenditures. It is sort of contagious.

So thanks for your write-ups. When I get started, I'll post my projects too.

Please do!! If I can be of any help I will gladly spend someone else's money for a change! I figure that you can make anything that there is--you just need the right tool to do it.

Mike

 

[Zephrant]

Well I'll keep you up to date on the purchases you caused.

I've not received my lights yet, I'll post some pictures of them when I get them. I definitely will have some amperage issues with my alternator, so may try the LED modules soon too.

I bought two pair of them- I need at least one on the back for night work, but may put two in front of the ROPS and two in the back.