Working around septic system

[Poncho]

My septic is right by my house and is only about a foot down, and fortunately I mow over it with a garden tractor. My drain/leech field is about 125-150 from my house (connected by PVC pipeabout 20-24" down. The installer said no problem driving over the PVC pipe and now problem driving over the leech field with my MF135 to bush hog the bahia grass. Also no problem to allow horses to graze over the drain/leech field. The leech field is about 30 inches down and I have a sandy loam soil .... which means drainage is not a problem. I would be leary about driving over a septic tank with a nominal size tractor unless it's as deep as what Junkman's is.

 

[DiskDoctr]

Junkman,

15 feet down? Wow... around here, we call that a coal mine /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif We're lucky to have local tanks 18-30 inches down.

-JC

 

[Junkman]

When I built my home, I wanted a 10' deep cellar and for the septic line to go under the cellar floor. They got down about 5' and hit hard pan that wouldn't budge. Told me that the septic would never make it under the cellar floor. I said, that we will try when the time came to dig the hole. They hit a vein of pure sandy gravel and had no problem digging the hole for the tank. At that time, it was only 10' to the top of the ground. We have since landscaped and removed a lot of material from the side of the house and put it in the rear to create a backyard. Before it was a sharp drop off from the house. The only time that it is a problem is when the tank is pumped. The can't get to the side edges with the shovel. If the baffle ever breaks off, I am in a lot of trouble. I have the tank pumped every 3 years and have never had a problem.

 

[TommyP]

I would like to throw out another question. I have a mound type septic system. I have a JD 2210 and I am a little leery about driving over it to mow. I use a push mower to get after it but the darn thing quit working. Do you think I can safely drive over the mound without damaging the drainfield?

 

[frank_f15]

A lot depends on how far down the tank and leach fied is? i drive over mine all the time with my b2400, but i won't alow anything heavier than that.

 

[JDgreen227]

My septic tank is less than a foot below the ground and although it's only twelve years old, I would not use my 3000 lb. JD to mow over it, as others have mentioned, the cover is the weak spot. As I don't know who installed the system, I am leery about driving over any part of it, I have marked the corners of the drainfield and tank and use a push mower to trim around and over them.

When we were having an excavation contractor here to dig our addition basement two years ago, I had clearly marked the entire septic system with stakes and caution tape, and several signs. The best marked item was the main line from house to septic tank, as it was the closest to the area being excavated.

The second best marked item was the water line from the well to the house.

The third best marked item was the 230 volt electrical line from the house to the well.

Here's a quiz for the TBN members: What did the guy running the excavator hit first?

What did he hit second?

After he hit the main sewer line, and then the water line, I got pissed off and insisted they start hand digging near the electrical line...and of course, one of them cut it with his shovel. I told the foreman, you got three strikes here today, one more and you are OUT of this project.

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[DiskDoctr]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( hand digging near the electrical line...and of course, one of them cut it with his shovel. )</font>

Shocking how careless some can be /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I hope you made them repair and get a little off their charge for the inconveniences...

-JC

 

[Bobm]

Just another opinion... my septic tank is down about 24". As I must drive over it (and lid!) with my B7200, I installed a 18" long, 30" diameter aluminum culvert in a vertical position over the septic tank cover. I made a wood (CCA treated) cover for the tank lid extenstion.

That way, literally no pressure can be exerted onto the lid, and getting at the lid is relatively easy as I only have to remove about 6" of soil.

The setup has been in existence for about 15 years, and yep, I've been B7200 mowing over my tank/leach field on clay soils for the past 20 years. Still - the clear lesson to be learned from this thread is "common sense prevails"... don't go over these things unless you must, then disperse weight as much as possible. Percolation is a bizarre animal. Capillary action is contingent upon soil type, pore size and a zillion other things.

 

[Junkman]

I wouldn't hazard a guess if it is safe to drive over. Too many variables. If I were building a new home, I would specify the standard for the tank to be of the type that can be driven over by trucks. The cost isn't in the tank, but the installation and repair if one fails. Don't remember the term that was used, but when a tank was installed in the parking lot near my store, it was of a grade of material that will withstand the weight of a tractor trailer. It has been in for over 10 years now and no truck has ever fallen into the tank. Most home tanks are quite thin and they can't withstand much weight.

 

[stephan]

When I was having a load of problems with smells in the house I did a lot of research (net) on septic and the do's and don'ts. Turns out a rubber seal had perished on the toilet causing the smell but here is what I learned about the leech field.
1. Don't drive on it. Period.
2. Don't plant anything but grass.
3. Don't let animals graze on it. Period.
4. Mow by hand and dispose of the cutting thoughtfully, not for animals.
5. If its very wet and smelly seek advice.
Now a lot of that has to do with compaction but some is to do with the little nasties that hang out around sewerage. I used to drive over mine with a RC and 40hp tractor (1800kg) but I have now fenced it off from man and beast.
I just reckon I have enough land that I don't need that bit and in the long run (as other people here have said) it costs more to fix so why take any risk?
I will add some links when I get around to it.