Worklight Wiring

[dfkrug]

4. For the front work lights I installed a relay to a switch in the dash. The switch is located in the recess by the key. I ran a fuse holder and a positive and negative off of the battery to power the lights. The fuse panel has a spare circuit worked into it. You need to remove the fuse panel, then carefully remove the fuse holder connectors from the back of the fuse panel. The top three all need to come out as one unit since they are one piece jumpered together to a keyed source. You can power your switch off of this spare circuit. Just solder your wire onto this spare spot once you get it out of the circuit block, then run to the switch, then to the relay. This way your front work lights are able to handle whatever wattage you want, and your fuse panel won't burn out because of over amperage.

That's the best way to do it. Relays and a two wires (at least 16 guage) to
each light allows you to use 55W halogens.

In addition to 2 relays under the dash (one for fwd light, one for rear), I
adapted the turn signal switch so that one direction turns on rear light, and
the other, the front.

 

[dfeck]

I just installed my work light. I purchased mine from TSC for $14.99 plus a switch for $3.50. I bought the heavy duty 65W light and drilled and mounted the toggle switch to the light. Total cost was $20 and it was a real easy install. Even the drilling and wiring of the switch was easy. If you're somewhat handy go this route and save the money. I'll post PICs later.

Doug

 

[gaberelli]

I just installed my work light. I purchased mine from TSC for $14.99 plus a switch for $3.50. I bought the heavy duty 65W light and drilled and mounted the toggle switch to the light. Total cost was $20 and it was a real easy install. Even the drilling and wiring of the switch was easy. If you're somewhat handy go this route and save the money. I'll post PICs later.

Doug

Did you tap into the wiring harness on the rear lights?

 

[joe48]

I just installed my work light. I purchased mine from TSC for $14.99 plus a switch for $3.50. I bought the heavy duty 65W light and drilled and mounted the toggle switch to the light. Total cost was $20 and it was a real easy install. Even the drilling and wiring of the switch was easy. If you're somewhat handy go this route and save the money. I'll post PICs later.

Doug

my solution was to run direct from the battery terminal with an in line fuse holder 15amp fuse, back to fender inside range shift, use a heavy duty water proof /marine toggle switch, run back to ROPS, up to a 3' piece of Kindorf u-bolted to top of ROPS, MOUNT 4 -55WATT halogens in rubber housing(6.99 on sale HF), two front two to rear. has worked great for 4 yrs. Do get the the marine switches from the start, cheap toggles don't last long. (Kioti CK 20)

 

[dfeck]

Yes, I did tap into the existing wires that is supplied in the rear of the tractor. I was going to install the switch on the dash but realized this was overkill. I placed the switch onto the housing of the light and when I need it I will flip the switch of the light. I'll post PICs later this week.

Doug

 

[gaberelli]

Yes, I did tap into the existing wires that is supplied in the rear of the tractor. I was going to install the switch on the dash but realized this was overkill. I placed the switch onto the housing of the light and when I need it I will flip the switch of the light. I'll post PICs later this week.

Doug

I'd love to see some pics and details. My days of wiring up subs, speakers and neon lights are long enough in the past the I could use the assistance. Plus, its cold out here in WI. Taking any longer than it needs to is not desirable. Thanks!!

 

[dfeck]

Here's the PICs of my worklight install. I decided to use a bracket because if I installed the light to the existing hole it would interfere with the SMV sign.

Doug

 

[tinman955]

Nice light install, looks like my next project.