worklights on 4510

[ktm250rider]

Thats a pisser. I had that site as reference. When I checked jdparts for the switch I couldnt find it in the sections that I was looking. Just used the main page search and it came right up. Guess a couple of frozen mudslides helped out tonight.

 

[SkunkWerX]

SW, I used a circuit breaker, they are cool to use...


Mounting cleanly IS a problem, and I am a stickler for fit/finish details...That is why I decided to drill the wholes in my ROPS, because I could not get the "clean" looks any other way.

I am not trying to convince either of you the drilling is the answer for you, but it was for me. There is plenty of discussion here about drilling/welding the ROPS, most will say NOT to do it. But I stand behind my decision.

KD, I gotcha. I did drill holes in my ROPS on my old Ford 1210 to fish wires. I actually tac-welded a bar, just underneath the TOP of the Rops, to use as light brackets. The fit -n- finish still wasn't all that spectacular.

I know it's best not to alter the ROPs in any way, if I can help it, not that I feel a couple of holes are going to cause it to catastrophically fail...

I would like something that doesn't look like a muffler clamp on the Rops, or a bolt-on after-thought, if I can help it.

I may have to do a temporary Clamp-on and keep wondering about a permanent, decent looking set-up.

 

[corelokt308win]

OK, here's what I did. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the ignition switch only hot when on lead, to an aftermarket, small fuse panel. I wired in two relays, purched from "surpluscenter.com" one for each pair of lights. I ran the factory light switch to thes, one high beam, one low. These now power my front and backs. I also ran a power lead to the rear for my winch and sprayer controls, an extra to the front, and my horn off of this box. Works great.

 

[kennyd]

OK, here's what I did. I ran a heavy gauge wire from the ignition switch only hot when on lead, to an aftermarket, small fuse panel. I wired in two relays, purched from "surpluscenter.com" one for each pair of lights. I ran the factory light switch to thes, one high beam, one low. These now power my front and backs. I also ran a power lead to the rear for my winch and sprayer controls, an extra to the front, and my horn off of this box. Works great.

So your pulling all that load through the fuse panel and the factory wiring? Not a great plan in my opinion.

 

[corelokt308win]

The tractor already had an old glass fuse type panel, so used it's heavy lead. Any 10-12 gauge wire lead can handle the load. Been using it for 2 -3 years now, working like a charm. At one point I had 6 lights, 2 of them halogen, the fourway flashers, and the power leads.

 

[Ed_C]

Does anyone have pics of REAR worklights on just the foldable ROPS?

Tradeoff between seeing or getting the tractor in the garage?

 

[kennyd]

Does anyone have pics of REAR worklights on just the foldable ROPS?

Tradeoff between seeing or getting the tractor in the garage?

In post #9 in this thread there is a link to my install. I have 4 lights on my ROPS, but I have a 8' garage door...

 

[Ed_C]

thanks-- nice work too!

 

[N80]

Here is a potentially clean way to mount lights without drilling ROPS or using u-bolts. Haven't tried them so don't know how well they hold.

www.MagnaLight.com Spotlights and Flashlights - MM2 Magnetic Base with 100 Pounds of Magnetic Gripping Power

 

[bigballer]

i am attaching a diagram i made for the wiring, please let me know if anything in here is incorrrect.

 

[canoetrpr]

bigballer... I'm really looking forward to your pictures.

Few details that I have yet to work out.

- Exactly how to hook up to +ve terminal of battery. I'm hoping not to just twist some wire onto the positive terminal but to somehow plug in permanently onto the existing clamp which already seems to have two live wires coming out of it.

- Exactly where to mount the 30A fuse. I see that there are already two big fuses beside the battery (I think they are fuses anyway)... maybe there is room beside them.

- Exactly how to hook into the fuse box for the trigger voltage. I suppose I could run a wire from the hot wire under the fenders which is already only hot when the key is on, upto the front where the relays and switches will sit, and use that as the trigger voltage... but it would be a lot more convenient to be able to plug in somewhere into the existing fuse panel for the trigger voltage.

 

[kennyd]

i am attaching a diagram i made for the wiring, please let me know if anything in here is incorrrect.

That's a great diagram, I hope you don't mind if I steal it

You can add that the wiring to the switches and lights can be 14 gauge.

 

[bigballer]

feel free to use the diagram, that's what makes this site so great - i'll update it with the 14 gauge wiring, gotta love visio

today i picked up my battery wiring and the fuse holder (i ended up getting an oversized one that sort of looks similar to the fuse holders next to the battery on the L2800/L3400).. I am also trying to figure out how to mount, thinking along side the existing. i'll probably add a washer style connector and connect it to the bolt/nut used on the post. i also bought switches and the rubber boots to keep them dry. Napa wanted $17 for the relay so i'll go back to schucks to get the 2nd one i need - they were selling them for $5. I am also undecided on the lights, Napa had alot in their catalog but the cheapest 55W trap was $28 so will keep looking. i may end up going back but will check online a bit first.. i pulled out my instrument panel and there seems to be enough room behind it to mount the relays, also not sure the best way to tie into the fuse panel might run back to the work light wiring under the fender but will also try to find a vampire tap and maybe use that.. i'll definately post some pics of my progress.. going to try to get some of it done this weekend

 

[ktm250rider]

Can you eliminate the second relay by connecting both switches to #87? I was going to run one wire from #87 to the first switch then just use another shorter wire from the first switch to the second.

 

[kennyd]

Can you eliminate the second relay by connecting both switches to #87? I was going to run one wire from #87 to the first switch then just use another shorter wire from the first switch to the second.

Yes, one relay is more than adequate for four lights as the relays are rated at 30 amps. That's the way mine is set up.

 

[bigballer]

i'll probably change mine to a single relay as well, as long as the lights can be controlled independently. seems there is plenty of space right behind the instrument panel (L3400) to mount the relay as well.

one question what are the brightest, best lights to get?? i thought the square traps were the best but is there something else? i have seen traps with 2 bulbs each? are they white halogen light?

 

[kennyd]

I used these 3x5 traps by HOBBS that I bought from Messick's.
They are high quality lights used by a lot of OEM's. The lights at Wally World and the auto parts stores are junk by comparison! Just the mounting brackets on these are very heavy duty. I like to buy good stuff once when I can!

 

[bigballer]

thanks kenny. i'll check those out. i priced some hella mining lights and i about choked on my tongue when i found out the price.. i also found a set from pilotautomotive.com for $30 each. these are oval..

 

[bjcsc]

Sounds like a good plan, but I don't like the wiring. The way you have it set up defeats the purpose of using a relay, especially if you drop to one relay. You'll have to use switches (and the wire to and from) rated for 10-15 amps, and the relays will be closed whenever your ignition is switched on, i.e. they may as well be solid wire and not part of the system.

If I were you, I would wire it as below (I hope you don't mind but I edited your original wiring to reflect my suggested changes in red). Note that most people wire the ground to 86 and the switch to 85 but it doesn't really matter which way the current flows so I left it as you had it. This way, any 12V switch would work, and the wiring to and from the switch can be light. And when you close the switch, the relay will send power directly to the load. You'll actually be using the relay for the purpose it was intended. My $.02...

 

[kennyd]

BJSC,
You are 100% correct, you can wire it that way.

We are using the relay's to take the load off the factory wiring. Either the original schematic or yours will accomplish this task.

I like the original, because I wanted a new 30 amp circuit to be ON with the tractor. If I had done my project with your diagram, I would have needed four relays vs. one. I know on my machine I did not have the real estate to do this. I think the relay is still being used for the purpose it is intended-and that is to switch a high current load.