Would synthetic oil benefit me?

[DarkBlack]

Doesn't take much to amaze you. Does it ?

I don't read any post here where someone is pushing dino , synthetic or any other product. Anyone can use what they want. The OP asked

No, It does. Just about every form of non-logic logic is posted here.
A few examples:

1) because my vehicle ran synthetic oil and ran a long time- thus synthetic is better.
2) A ran 15w-40 dino and switched to 5w-30 synth, and in the cold, it started faster- thus synthetic is better.
3) I bought a new vehicle and switched to synthetic after break-in and got 1 mpg better- thus synthetic is better

That's enough for now..tired..

 

[Elviscaretaker]

I'm just amazed at the flimflam posted here by sythetic oil pushers here on this tractor site.

I'm not pushing them either. At this point I haven't seen one with a high enough detergent content but, I also have not researched diesel oils yet and until I do, I'm going with the dealer recommended which is a 25% syn mix. Only difference is that I like a lighter weight for year round than what they are claiming. Normally not too hot or too cold here.
I could see if anyone here knows the specs and save some time though .
Either way, oils have come a long way since the model T days.

 

[kenmac]

No, It does. Just about every form of non-logic logic is posted here.
A few examples:

1) because my vehicle ran synthetic oil and ran a long time- thus synthetic is better.
2) A ran 15w-40 dino and switched to 5w-30 synth, and in the cold, it started faster- thus synthetic is better.
3) I bought a new vehicle and switched to synthetic after break-in and got 1 mpg better- thus synthetic is better

That's enough for now..tired..

Your entitled to your opinion. Do some research. Synthetic is superior when compaired to dino

 

[clemsonfor]

I'm just amazed at the flimflam posted here by sythetic oil pushers here on this tractor site.

Syn Has its place. Maybe not in your garage, or oil pan, but it is sold so it is here to stay and does well. Piece of mind means a lot in the auto industry. If someone feels its superior that may be all that person needs to run it. Does that make it snake oil, no. Does that mean that dino oil will cause you truck/car to die an early death, no. OIl changes correct weight level, good clean filter, will all help longevity.

Again I changed oil at 3k untill this last vehicle we bought almost 2 yrs ago (toyota highlander). Its book says go like 7500 on dino. I wanted to start using syn oil in it and pushing to 6-10K oil changes. Something i would never want to do on dino, will it do it, im sure it will but i did not want to do it. The difference is not that much! Like i said i pay $24ish dollars for a gallon of anytype mobil 1 oil i want at walmart. If you buy the qt bottles of Castrol GTX (for example). I think you will pay something like $18ish dollars for a gallon. Most now come in 5 gt bottles thus cutting cost a little but that is the range say $15-19 for name brand dino/gallon at walmart. If you buy not on sale at Advance you will pay About $20/5 qts buy buying qt bottles of anything name brand. So your looking at about a $5 premium over dino oil if you change at 8K miles and do 2 changes a year your talking $10 you paid over the same intervals of conventional oil.

Just cause i use syn oil in that vehicle does not mean i use it everywhere. My 2 strokes are still dino oil, my other vehicles are dino oil cause they leak and burn more than i want to replace with syn oil!

No one says you have to use it or your truck will tear up in this thread. Im sure we all have a vehicle with over 200K with nothing but dino ever in it. I have 2 such cars right now!

I fully admit there are some heavy pushers on here. They are mainly found in the Amsoil corner. I myself thought of trying it as touted low price and its racing influence, but havent, one cause you buy it from a guy in a truck or at some small shop at least around here. The fact they wont submit to routine testing to become certified and the fact that about half the folks who use it tell you how much better it is and that everything else is junk! It may be better but that does not make valvoline full syn or mobil 1 junk, does it? And further more in a normal 5 qt oil pan why would anybody ever want to go to something like 40K mile oil changes :confused2:. Part of a change is to get suspended junk out of your expensive engine. If you keep that truck 250K miles you will do something like 6 changes in the life!!

 

[varmint]

Always an interesting discussion! I noted that Porsche and Corvette, + some others, recommend Mobil One oil. I like synthetic oil because I can easily notice quicker, easier cold weather starts with it, and the small difference doesn't really matter that much to use, since non of our vehicles gets more than 8000 miles a year. So, I change oil once a year, whether it needs it or not. In fact, dino oil in my Kubota made winter starts real hard to pull off without a block heater. I put a pricey synthetic tranny oil in my manual Subaru, and the shifts are noticably quicker and cleaner, and I am not racing, just driving.

 

[dodge man]

I started running Amsoil about a year ago. I was one of those guys who changed the oil every 3000 miles, then the more I read about, I decided I was wasting my time and money. Amsoil's top oil says once a year or something like 20,000 miles. I'm not going to go 20,000 miles between changes, but I like the once a year thing. The truth is, I'm probably not saving money with the Amsoil, but I am reducing the number of times I have to get under my vehicles. I maintain 3 cars, one pickup and one tractor, plus 3 small egnines. Anything I can do to reduce maintance time helps.

 

[dodge man]

I feel I have to respond to Clemsfors post about Amsoil. Most of there oil is certified and tested. There top of the line oil is not. They won't really admit why. I feel its because of the additive package they use. Its desgined for extended miles, and I think in theory, it can damage cat. converters. This is me reading between the lines and reading other sources of info. I don't know this for a fact.

It is kind of funny the way they sell the stuff, it kind of has a Amway feel to it. The local guy is a fire fighter and sells it out of his house. I just order mine on line and its at the front door when I go home in the evening. They do carry it in the local farm store, but I don't think it sells all that good. I've read a lot of testing on oils, and Amsoil makes a good product, but to say its the best?? I buy it for the convience of getting it delevired to my front door and because I feels its a good product.

 

[clemsonfor]

I feel I have to respond to Clemsfors post about Amsoil. Most of there oil is certified and tested. There top of the line oil is not. They won't really admit why. I feel its because of the additive package they use. Its desgined for extended miles, and I think in theory, it can damage cat. converters. This is me reading between the lines and reading other sources of info. I don't know this for a fact.

It is kind of funny the way they sell the stuff, it kind of has a Amway feel to it. The local guy is a fire fighter and sells it out of his house. I just order mine on line and its at the front door when I go home in the evening. They do carry it in the local farm store, but I don't think it sells all that good. I've read a lot of testing on oils, and Amsoil makes a good product, but to say its the best?? I buy it for the convience of getting it delevired to my front door and because I feels its a good product.

I personally have only looked close, once online. So the oil you buy has the API certified seal saying 5w-30 or whatever on it?

 

[dodge man]

Amsoil sells 3 lines of oil, 2 of those are API certified and one isn't. There best oil is not. This is for gas engines. There newest line of oil is called OE, and it is pretty competitive for price, and it is API certified.

 

[crashz]

The high end Amsoil has a few additives that are no longer acceptable to the API for pollution control issues. when Amsoil felt the pressure to have an API certified oil, the phosphorous in their premium line was too much for the requirements. Therefore the createdtheir mid grade oils (Grp III base). The premium oil is still a fanatastic oil, but better for a non-catalytic converter vehicles. But for the money, I was never sold on it. It was a hassle from me to order and cost is premium. Couldn't get past the pyramid marketing.

DarkBlack - pretty heft accusations there. Any muscle to back them up? What about cold pour point viscosity? Do you have any proof of a conventional oil having a lower pour point that same grade synthetic? Any conventional oils that will met Honda specs for 0w-20 weight oil, which is the required oil weight on the new cars? Any conventional oils that can span the 0w-40 or 5w-40 viscosity spread?

Group III hydro-cracked oils (labeled and marketed as full synthetic by many of the brand name manufactures)do a lot of the above, but for 0w-XX oils, PAO/partial PAO/ester base (Group IV & V) are still needed. But my info is starting to get old. Maybe new conventional base stocks and add packages are more refined and have surpassed synthetics?

BTW - I use synthetics, but don't preach that they are perfect for everybody. For what I do, the slight benefit is not wasted on my vehicles.