Would synthetic oil benefit me?

[grsthegreat]

I agree, dino now has long changes. Problem is pull a UOA and then run a synthetic. In my case, a world of diff. I know Ford on there Powerchoke had issues with foaming etc.

pull a uoa? whats that mean

 

[sw03]

pull a uoa? whats that mean

used oil analysis...This is why most on TBN do not understand the benefits of certain oils...nothing directed to you either! Been on here for WAY to may years (not this log-on)...

I would not use a dino anymore; but, that is me.

 

[Elviscaretaker]

Elvis,

I think they do (my local Napa does) , but make sure it specifically meets the spec. Tractor fluid and regular hydraulic fluid are very similar, but the difference is that the tractor fluid has extreme pressure additives for gear contact protect, where regular hydraulic oil does not.

As far as the 0w-20, so far its an elusive beastie. I can only find it in synthetic, and for that matter, only Mobil 1 or Honda branded. Gotta change the oil in our 2010 CRV this weekend, so I'll be on the hunt.

BTW- I dind't mean to be too harsh in my last post. Most of it was to prove a point that synthetics offer a real service to those who may want or require it, but also my info is a little dated. I realy haven't put much time into oil research for a while, as it was an interest of mine that has kinda wained in the last few years.

Elvis is my pup in the photo. My names Ed.
No offense taken, I like to hear all sides of everything (meet my family if you want combative!). I've been running the blend and full sny in my trucks since new. Mainly since they required it but the cost has also come down to the point that I'm reaching for for my kids cars. All moved out mind you, but I still get the "privilege" of taking care of them.
One of the cars is a newer Honda and the dealer's shop led me to believe that the 5-20 is just fine for it in our climate. Just finding the 5-20 period is bad here. They don't stock enough of it which is why I buy in bulk when I find it.
So onto the hydro fluid... The local NAPA does have one on hand that's listed as compatible. Should be fine then? Heck of a lot cheaper at 9 a qt than the 19 a qt at NH!
I've been reading up on some of the tractor fluid issues, this is ONE source I've been looking at.
Hydraulic Tutorials
Think the guy is a salesman but with this, I'm going to defer to folks who have field experience with the machines. Figure I can learn from others :thumbsup:.

 

[dodge man]

Some car REQUIRE 5w-20. We have two late models hemi's with MDS (runs on 4 cylinders part of the time) that require it to work correctly.

 

[lostcause]

No, It does. Just about every form of non-logic logic is posted here.
A few examples:

2) A ran 15w-40 dino and switched to 5w-30 synth, and in the cold, it started faster- thus synthetic is better.

That's enough for now..tired..

i looked through the pages of fluff, and didn't see anyone else with a similar post, so i assume you must be referring to my comment. i'll post it again to be clear:

i also switched to rotella t6 synthetic in one truck too. not because i was worried about less frequent oil changes, but because on cold days this winter the diesel would actually start, but it would not pump the 15-40 oil through it. the 5-40 synthetic is noticeably easier on the engine at startup.

the primary reason for switching was not because i thought it started better, but because with the 15-40 it WOULD NOT pump oil on a cold day. we're not talking about a labored engine sound, we're talking about the oil pressure gauge on ZERO, a big information center lit upon the dash telling me what the analog gauge already did, and a horrible noise coming from the vehicle that informed me that the end of the world was near. after running the 5-40 t6 synthetic (not 5-30 t5) i never experienced the problem. granted, maybe the temperature of the engine was never the same as when it would not pump, but for a cost difference of $20-$25 an oil change on a 10qt vehicle, it's worth it in my book.

i don't see things in the same black and white world as some people, and i never said it was better, but if you are unable to use a vehicle for whatever reason, and a different product allows you to do so, then what do you call it? i can't guarantee that i can always leave the truck in a location where i can plug the block heater in, so running the synthetic oil is a little extra insurance that the truck will start and function when i need it to.

on a side note i will say that i am impressed with the glow plug and fuel preheat system in that truck. it has certainly had its share of issues that i'm not overly impressed with, but if it will start in temperatures so cold that conventional oils will not pump, then it must be pretty good.

 

[Reg]

I was just wondering what the consensus is. It would be worth it to me I could go 5k with synthetic oil between changes instead of the 3-3500 I have been doing with conventional oil.

Is that safe? I drive my truck. Off road miles, dust, heavy towing (for a gas pickup) for a few k a year, most of my trips are a couple miles.

Does it even matter?:confused2:

No...

 

[DarkBlack]

I was just wondering what the consensus is. It would be worth it to me I could go 5k with synthetic oil between changes instead of the 3-3500 I have been doing with conventional oil.

Is that safe? I drive my truck. Off road miles, dust, heavy towing (for a gas pickup) for a few k a year, most of my trips are a couple miles.

Does it even matter?:confused2:

"few k a year" so at 3-5k that means you change it once a year. Moisture, dirt, time is your enemy. Definetly not a $ smart application for synthetic.
Some Amsoil salesmen will tell you you could go 10, 15, 20 k miles. Just think, you could only change your oil once every 7 years:laughing: For extra sleeping insurance make sure you buy premium gas, even if your vehicle doesn't need it- premium is better.

 

[Reg]

Oil changing and "sooper dooper wonderfully enhanced" oils are SO oversold.

Engines really HAVE come a long way.
Machining tolerances are tighter, things don't slop around so much, piston ring gaps are smaller, there is less blow by, less contamination from by products of combustion,,, on and on and on.
Bearings are assembled by group match, or "binning" of tolerance range.

Yes, it doesn't matter.
If anything needs changing it is the "mileage" guideline for oil change intervals.
I think "fuel gallons" would be a better measure.
It is probably one of the few measures of total work done, or total stress experienced by an engine.
You drive with a light foot, you get good gas mileage, you can go longer between oil changes.
You drive with a lead foot, you get poor gas mileage, you need to change the oil more often.

What say oil changes every 500 gallons of gas burned ?
Maybe 300 for diesel engines ?

I used to burn 3 gallons per hour in a boat, the recommended oil changes were every 50 hours - that would have been about every 150 gallons of gas.
That seemed too short an oil change interval - to me, but boats CAN be run hard for hours on end, so maybe others burned 3 or 4 times as much.
(-:

 

[Elviscaretaker]

No...

Actually your oil won't make a big difference with the amount you drive. I'd still change it once a year because moisture etc will get in there over that length of time. Keep an eye on your levels though, heavy loads on a gas engine normally means you'll burn some. Not a lot if it's in good condition but you'd most likely be low by around 2k

Again don't know your conditions or if the vehicle sits for long terms or not. For that matter, how old it is since that would make a difference also.

I'd love to get away driving that little in a year! You must have something else you drive also.

 

[Elviscaretaker]

sorry about that, wrong quote
Should have been quoting hrcarver...