Grapple WR Long 3rd Function kit - installation

[watkincm]

Not sure this is strictly a new thread but I'm trying to install this Valve Kit ready for when my grapple arrives on Monday. Everything installs just fine except the instructions tell me to "Connect the red wire from the rocker switch to a hot wire on the tractor using the 10 amp in line fuse".

Dumb question (two actually)...
1. where/how do I find a hot wire?
2. where does the fuse go?

Any guidance is appreciated

 

[jake98]

Welcome to TBN. (welcome to posting I should say..) A 10a. line probably needs to go right to the battery with the fuse at the beginning. What tractor?

 

[watkincm]

Thanks for responding Jake98...
Are you saying I should connect the wire directly to the battery live terminal?

Tractor = Mahindra 3316 4WD (gear)

 

[jake98]

You could check the manual and fuse box for a spare connection spot. 10 amps is not like hooking up a light, it needs a heavier wire. Someone with experience on your tractor will chime in eventually. 10 amps must need something like a 14 or 16 gauge wire. Going straight to the battery with a fuse is a way to do it, but may be considered crude I suppose. As long as there's a fuse right at the beginning it's protected.

 

[dstig1]

You can connect to the battery directly, but it isn't necessary for such a small wire. That is more important to do with big draws like electric winches, etc. These valves draw almost nothing. I tapped into the back of the fuse box on my install. Wasn't a WR Long, but they are all basically the same. I used a switched circuit (on with key on) so I wouldn't accidentally leave the 3rd function valve on and kill the battery. Find an appropriate circuit with a voltmeter and the key on/off to trace.

 

[watkincm]

Great, thanks guys..
Based on your suggestions, I finally decided to tap in to the 10A turn signal fuse in the fuse box.
Seems to work fine - and, as a bonus, the lights still work :0)
There was a moment of tribulation... when I first tested the rocker switch, it blew the fuse. Turns out I had shorted the rocker switch connections against the top of the loader control lever ...which is now profusely decorated with insulation tape.
One thing still worries me, though... having successfully tested the valve without the Grapple attached, any suggestions on how to relieve the hydraulic pressure left in the hoses...?

 

[J_J]

Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start. Now, cycle the switch, and that will open the closed up circuit, and equalize the pressure. I am assuming that you have turn signals with the tractor switch on. If you plug a gage into the QD's after cycling the switch, you should read no pressure.

You could also tap on the ball inside the QD with a dowel rod, and relieve the pressure. Wrap a rag around the QD, when doing this.

 

[dstig1]

I have run into significant issues with not being able to get the pressure relieved from mine so I can reattach my grapple. What JJ described is the generally accepted practice, but it doesn't seem to work for me. I have had to use a bar clamp to pull the fittings together on mine to overcome the residual pressure that I can't relieve. I think the catch is that the valve is piloted so it partly uses the pressure of the fluid to drive it. I think if I were to do the key on/engine off trick with the grapple slightly open, it would bleed off the pressure since the grapple would drop from gravity and push the fluid out. I need to try this when I get it out of storage this spring (shortly, but not quite yet).

Just FYI. Most people don't seem to have this issue.

 

[JRP]

I need the same kit. About how much did it cost? Ire you satisfied?

 

[jake98]

I have run into significant issues with not being able to get the pressure relieved from mine so I can reattach my grapple. What JJ described is the generally accepted practice, but it doesn't seem to work for me. I have had to use a bar clamp to pull the fittings together on mine to overcome the residual pressure that I can't relieve. I think the catch is that the valve is piloted so it partly uses the pressure of the fluid to drive it. I think if I were to do the key on/engine off trick with the grapple slightly open, it would bleed off the pressure since the grapple would drop from gravity and push the fluid out. I need to try this when I get it out of storage this spring (shortly, but not quite yet).

Just FYI. Most people don't seem to have this issue.

It always seems to be pressure on the grapple side (for me anyway), It must not take much pressure to keep them from attaching, or the grapple cylinders would just move. Last time I hooked up, I had one side connected and it still wouldn't go on the other, so I started over-thinking that it must be on the tractor side.. wrong again..

 

[watkincm]

Originally posted by JRP:
I need the same kit. About how much did it cost? Ire you satisfied?

Bought the Valve kit thru EverythingAttachments.com where I ordered the grapple.
The kit was shipped separately, directly from WR Long, Inc., after Nelson Long literally drove out to my home to check out my loader valve box (EverythingAttachments determined that the Mahindra ML111 loader has a unique implementation that would make it difficult to install the std. kit).

EverythingAttachments charged $775 for the kit (perhaps a little on the high side from what I read) but WR Long made no charge for the modifications, the quality of the kit looks great, both companies were extremely helpful and diligent. I certainly could not complain about the level of customer service. Definitely a returning customer!

 

[93Mustang]

I have the WR Long valve as well and love it. I hate connecting the grapple. The pressure problem is definitely on the grapple side to the point where i have had to disconnect the hoses on the grapple cylinder to relieve the pressure. I have found that leaving the grapple in the open position has made the process a lot easier for some reason...

You will love the setup.

Dana

 

[dstig1]

My connection issue has been on the tractor side. When I first ran into it, I released the pressure in the grapple lines (assuming it had to be there), and it still wouldn't go together. The only time I was able to click it together easily was the very first time, before there was fluid in the system. Like I said, I keep a bar clamp handy to pull them together. It works, but it still takes some good effort.

I will try leaving it in the open position trick, along with a few others this year.

 

[GreatWhitehunter]

I always connect the hoses on my grapple to each other when not in use. It keeps the pressure equal and the connections clean.

Matt

 

[jake98]

Seems like there ought to be a way to lever the grapple one way or the other to take the pressure off, but I haven't found it yet.

 

[93Mustang]

I did try connecting to couplers together once as that seemed like a logical way to store them and couldn't get them apart so I went back to the dust plugs. I seriously grudgingly remove the grapple as it take all of one minute to change from the bucket to the grapple but I have spent hours with the hydraulics...

 

[J_J]

For the hyd attachment.

If you guys would simply install a tee and a small high pressure gate valve behind one of the QD's, you could relieve any pressure at any time. Just make sure it is closed when using the attachment. The cylinder should be in the relaxed state when storing.

Heat is the cause of most of the troubles connecting QD's.

The style of QD I use , makes it easier for me to connect, because the QD sleeve moves both ways. Made by Safeway.

Something like this.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7281-4&catname=hydraulic

 

[jake98]

For the hyd attachment.

If you guys would simply install a tee and a small high pressure gate valve behind one of the QD's, you could relieve any pressure at any time. Just make sure it is closed when using the attachment. The cylinder should be in the relaxed state when storing.

Heat is the cause of most of the troubles connecting QD's.

The style of QD I use , makes it easier for me to connect, because the QD sleeve moves both ways. Made by Safeway.

Something like this.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7281-4&catname=hydraulic

relaxed = retracted, right? that's how I leave mine all the time. good idea on the valve, thanks JJ
edit, come to think of it, no matter where the cyl is, when it heats up it's gonna lock the qd's..

 

[Andrewnewy]

With any hydraulic attachments before you disconnect them turn the tractor off (leave key on for items requiring power) and cycle the relevant hydraulic control in both directions, this will neutralize pressure and allow the implement to be disconnected easily, but more importantly will allow it to be re-connected easily. 3rd functions on loaders are classic for this type of pressure buildup, as when you don't have anything connected it not hard to accidentally nock the switch and build up pressure with out knowing it.
So if you ever have a tight fitting, switch off, relieve pressure and try again. If it still doesn't go then the fitting must be rusted shut!

 

[dstig1]

I appreciate the efforts to help with this issue that I am having (and Jake too, it seems), but for example, what Andrew described is exactly what I do. It does not help. I get the principle, and am applying it as best I can but it has not helped. JJ's suggestion has more potential as it opens a clear path to release pressure.

I haven't yet experimented much with other tricks for this, as I've only had the grapple off like 3 times total since I got it in Sept. It was a "grapple-intensive" fall for me... But I will need to pull it off pretty soon after I get it out of storage. Maybe this weekend, or next, weather depending.

Again, I believe that the valve is piloted and so does not move without some pressure. Leaving the grapple open so that it collapses when I activate the circuit with the engine off seems like my best chance, short of adding some relief like JJ said. Up to now I've left the grapple closed and then activated the valve with the engine off to release pressure.