x-tra lights

[kerr]

Ya,im one of those.Workin late on a full moon nite with my 4200 and boxblade is better than #*$!Sure wish i could see in the box better though.Im sure a worklight kit is kinda pricey.Any body got a good system out there ?After market lights ,wire,toogle switch to hot post on batt.Is easy enough.Thought someone might have a trick little system there proud of enough to share.Will the alt.pull the addition o.k.?Old fart,shinny 4200,lit up like a christmas tree,full moon nite,what a site!!!!

 

[PaulB]

On Kubotas there is a female wire connection under the seat, and it is a simple matter of running a wire from there to a toggle switch, and then to as many lights as your alternator can handle. I hooked up 2 35 watt lights, one facing forward and 1 facing backward, with a switch, for less than $50.I drilled a hole in my fender to mount the toggle switch, and mounted the lights to my fenders, one on each side. I bought self grounded lights (grounded by the mounting bracket) to preclude having to running extra wires for ground (neater end result) I got all I needed at NAPA.

 

[JimBinMI]

kerr,

I recently added a flood light to the rear of my NH TC18. I used a bracket that my dad made for me, used one of the ROPs bolts to hold the bracket. On the TC there is an extra female hot wire on the top of the right side rear fender, I got a male connector to fit it, grounded the light to the bracket and presto! I bought the flood light at my dealer for under $20 I think, it has its own on/off switch. When the switch is on, it comes on with the headlights, or you can leave it off, does a great job lighting up behind the tractor, plowed snow Tuesday night way after dark. The TC's come with great headlights, so I have no need for additional front lighting.

Good Luck, JimBinMI

 

[MChalkley]

Kerr - I've got 5 extra 55w halogens on the canopy of my L4310HST. Details on how they're wired, what kind, the mounts, etc. are in the "L4310 Enhancements" thread in the "Kubota Owning" discussion area.

MarkC

 

[Bird]

kerr, like PaulB mentioned, there's already a wire and connector under the seat on the Kubotas to add "work lights". It's wired through the key so it's only hot when the key is on, and it has a 10 amp fuse. I'll bet John Deere has something similar. Of course, if you want more light than the 10 amp fuse and wiring can handle, then you need to do a little more work like Mark Chalkley did. I used that wire on my Kubota to put one 55 watt light to the rear and one to the front on my canopy, but with a 3-way toggle switch so only one of them can be on at a time.

Bird

 

[TomG]

In terms of what an alternator can support, divide total watts by 12 to get amps. The aux light amps, plus some for headlights & dash, can be compared to the alternator rating that should be in an owner's manual. A risk is that if the current draw from lighting is close to an alternator's output, then the battery may not fully recharge during short runs with all the lights on.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Kerr, I'll describe how I mounted rear worklights on my 4100. It looks a lot like the O.E.M. setup shown in the 4000 series sales brochure. I expect it would work the same on the 4200. I used the BLAZER 3"x5" multipurpose worklights with the "L" shaped brackets as seen here. worklights (mine came from the local CT Farm & Family store approx. $15.00 for the pair) Trapazoid pattern was all they had. They're mounted using the same hardware that holds the factory warning/tailights on the ROPS. I used the top bolt to mount the bracket. Then had two wires to hook up, hot and ground. Used a crimp-on ring terminal and secured the short ground lead to ROPS with the lower bolt. Then the short hot lead needed to be extended. I soldered the connection and sleeved it with heat shrink because I then ran the wire lead thru some black vinyl tubing for a clean look (personal preference). A crimp connector could be used. Dropped the wire in thru the hole in the ROPS and out the bottom. There should be two unused plug in connectors in the wire harness between the fenders. These are wired into the lighting circuit for the OEM light kit. Used a volt meter, found the hot side on each of the plugs and made the connection with insulated spade terminals. Some RTV silicone to make things weathertight and wire tied it along the bar. The lights come on when the switch is in the "C" (lights on) position and off when the switch is turned to either "B" (warning flashers) or "D" (headlights, talilights, & warning flashers) positions. I originally intended to splice in a toggle switch to shut off the rear lights when I thought it necessary but it really hasn't been an issue because most times I find the need for lights on in both directions. What I think I might need next is some foward facing lights maybe atop the hood guard./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif DFB

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Forgot to add my user name to post/w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

 

[kerr]

MD.F.B thanks to ya and all else for the comebacks.Got some free time now got the first fire of the year going in the shop .Ill have somthing by Mon .Mchalkey's rig is slicker than a gut,no $hitter go getter for sure!Kerrs gone.

 

[dmccarty]

This web site still amazes me. Everytime I have a question or problem it seems like someone is already talking about the solution.

I'm still in the middle of my Work Light Enablement Operation. But here is my two cents to add to the pile. I found some tractor worklights at a part store. But they only had one light and I want at least two if not three. So I went to another store and started looking at lights. They had "tractor" worklights and offroad lights. I ended up getting a kit with two 55w lights, FoxLights or some such was the company and the model was Baja Buggy or something similar. Theses were a few dollars cheaper than one of the other brands that was mentioned that I almost bought. I got this brand since they have face plates that fit over the lights which I really need to protect the lights from branches.

I want my lights mounted on the ROPS. High on the ROPS. But I'm not going to drill hole into the ROPS. So After I couple of trips to Ace and much pondering I came up with a solution. They had a 1 inch square Aluminum tube that was 4 feet long. I found some U bolts that fit around the ROPS and into two holes drilled into the square tube. The tube is mounted behind the ROPS and it is long enough to extend past the ROPS by a 8 inches or so. I'm going to mount the lights upside down at the end of the bar. That should give me a good angle to the front of the tractor but protect the lights a bit since they are hanging below the top of the ROPS. There are already two holes on the back of the ROPS where I can feed the wire to power the lights. Eventually I'll likely mount a third light maybe a fourth facing to the rear.

Check your tractor manual. My 4700 has an Operation lights circuit that is not in use, it was 20 or 30 amps. I also have three other circuit, 10, 20, and I think a 30 amps, that are not used. The two lights are 10 amps so I have plenty of "room" for them.

I still don't have mine wired at this point because of the weather but it looks like you are getting very specific info for you tractor model on how to hook things up.

Good Luck!
Dan McCarty