X595 alternator upgrade

[yelbike]

now that we have picture and thanks for buying this from a georgia company have dealt with these guys for over 25 years you probably did it all by the internet. the 't' plug is set up like this if the plug looking at it in the shape of a 't' the top spade is the igniton wire the other spade is the the light if so equipped if you would rather not do this call your local rebuilder ask him to get you a transpo self exciting regulator number in254se by installing this all you have to do is hook up the battery post and off you go no wire need to be hooked up to the 't' plug. also the denso number for your alternator is 100211-4530 or 100211-4531 which by the number change only means denso did a cosmnetic change to the alternator and any rebuilder can rebuild this unit has a very good life expectancy. if you want to do this and cant find the regulator just repost i will put you in touch with someone who will sell it to you

I have a local rebuilt guys ( childhood acquiantance). What do I need to ask this guy for? Will it simply bolt up or do I need an external reg?

 

[mitch becton]

the most common brand of this regulator is transpo in254se if will replace inside your alternator the regulator you now have he may have it under another number but he will know what you are looking for . as far installing it you will need to remove the back cover of alternator if you dont feel safe doing this he has probably done hunderds of these over the years should take him about 30 minutes or less you can now eliminate the external regulator if you have any more question just repost

 

[Scottster]

I know its not the same thing but I got a crappy dealer as well that bought the dealership a couple years ago and thinks im a retirement plan, My x595 blows the 20 amp fuse on the ignition module board after 5 mins of run time and then blows one immediately after changing unless it sits overnite, I replaced the module/ ignition board/ switch assy and same thing, he did throw me a bone and told me the fuel shutoff solenoid does the same thing so I replaced it and no difference, I made a fuse jumper and was thought like somethings going to melt and I can actually find the problem as the they JD thinks a schematic is a top secret battle plan , I was thinking alternater /voltage regulator is putting out to much voltage maybe so I disconnected the alternator (some little mini style) and fired it up, runs fine with no abnormalities noted so I plugged in the alternator and put my meter on it and 14.5 volts at 1/3 throttle, is this the normal output ? I see the finned box /regulator is there a test for it ?


My fuel line also pulled out a couple years ago and I tie wrapped it in.... must be a common problem

 

[Scottster]

Scratch all that, found a wire to seat interlock that was touching ground... ****, $200 dollars later and a lot of aggravation for a safety switch....

 

[Back2PA]

Hello guys and gals.

I'm new here and looking for a bit of information.

My father picked up a 40 amp alternator to replace the little baby 20 amp on our X595 JD tractor due to adding lights and an in cab heater. The 20 amp can't keep up.

I've read the 20 amp is externally regulated, and the 40 is internally regulated.

What i'm searching for is a wiring diagram, or at least the location of the external regulator. I'm thinking it's the little metal finned box that i can see when i remove the left hand(when sitting in the seat) plastic screen panel.

Am i on the right track? I'm trying to figure out what i have to re-wire to make the internally regulated 40 amp alt work, and still have the dashboard warning light. I know there's a jumper that'll take the guess work out, but our only local JD place had their license/permit to sell JD stuff pulled because it's a little hole in the wall place(which is filthy by the way) that treats it's customers like pieces of meat with cash instead of human beings. I hate going there, so i refuse to give them my business.


Also i know this is off topic a tad but the fuel filter housing had the barb for the fuel supply line rattle out and it's been held in with bailing wire for a while. It leaks a few drips, but nothing serious. Is there a way to repair this or should i just pick up a new filter housing? Can the housing be had online anywheres or is it something i'd have to go to a JD retailer and order?

Thanks in advance!

There is no longer a warranty on this machine so i'm not afraid of modifying the wiring harness. It has just over 1300 hours on it, and runs like a champ.

- Dave

Replying to this old thread. My SIL has an X595. He's a farmer and very handy, but very hesitant around anything electrical (not scared, just no understanding) I replaced the alternator on his X595 for him with an aftermarket he bought. Has the two spade connector like original, but not charging. Also has old school terminal stud with nuts on top of alternator but there's no wire to connect to it. I feel sure that I need to connect something to that stud to get the alternator operating but don't know what. Trying to avoid them calling a mechanic as I'm guessing this is a simple fix. (Alternator light goes out when engine is started, but still only showing battery voltage at battery terminals.) thanks in advance. Also please advise what I should be seeing on a VOM on the vertical and horizontal spades. Thx

 

[WranglerX]

Generally the threaded stud on alternators are the positive voltage out put (B+) to charge battery and keep voltage up in electrical system... Check to see if the is a "identifier" next to stud to give a clue what its fore.... The two push on connector might just be charge indicator circuit.... Fire up engine and see if you have 14 plus volts DC at threaded stud...