YAJCMT: Yet Another Jinma Chipper Modification Thread

[tcreeley]

That is a nice bit of work you are doing there- chipper is a useful tool!

 

[cycle_gator]

I have exactly the same chipper and I am inspired. I will be interested to see if the Jinma makes enough air to clear the chips out of a six inch chute, that is a lot more cross-sectional area than the OEM chute. If it works, I fully intend to copy you

 

[rswyan]

tc,

Thanks ... yup it would certainly be very handy ... if I can get it dialed in to where I'm not having to fight it.

 

[rswyan]

I have exactly the same chipper and I am inspired.

Kewl ... :thumbsup:

I will be interested to see if the Jinma makes enough air to clear the chips out of a six inch chute, that is a lot more cross-sectional area than the OEM chute.

Yup ... that was a concern I had when making the decision about what size tube to use.

I elected to go with 6" tube and flanges because it completely contained/captured/enclosed the outlet area of the disc housing ...

If I had gone with 5" tube immediately, it would have introduced a restriction into the chip discharge path, as the diagonal measurement of the outlet on the disc housing was over 5 1/2" IIRC ...

I did notice while I was down Cross Truck that they had some 6" to 5" reducers in stock ... so modifying this setup to drop to 5" immediately after the flanges would be pretty easy.

Personally, I don't think it's going to be an issue ... but I certainly could be wrong. I can dimly recall getting into the chip path close to the end of the discharge chute while they were coming out and it seems to me - IIRC - it was rather uncomfortable (pain) ... more like the chips were being thrown with considerable force ... rather than blown ... although I'm sure that air/blowing plays a part.

One thing I have some attention on is the transition from the 6" round tube down into the original stock rectangular discharge chute. I want to make sure that it is pretty smooth ... with no rough edges that might catch chips or slow them down. That transition will probably have to occur over a fairly short distance because I can only reach down into the tube so far and still work effectively.

If it works, I fully intend to copy you

By all means ... :thumbsup:

I'm trying to be fairly detailed with my posts so that folks can do exactly that, if they so desire.

 

[lt190b]

Make Wood Chipper Throw 2x as far and never clog - YouTuberswyan, today viewing a link to youtube I saw guys video about curing a 2stage snow blower clogging problem. In it he made mention of fixing the clog problem and improving discharge on his wood chipper. I will try to post a link here, lt190b

 

[rswyan]

Make Wood Chipper Throw 2x as far and never clog - YouTuberswyan, today viewing a link to youtube I saw guys video about curing a 2stage snow blower clogging problem. In it he made mention of fixing the clog problem and improving discharge on his wood chipper. I will try to post a link here, lt190b

lt,

Good find ... makes sense ... I'll add it to the list ...

Not sure how quick I'll get to it though ... to get that kind of access on a Jinma chipper you basically have to disassemble the entire chipper housing ... which might a reason for yet another mod ...

 

[rswyan]

Got another 2" of 3 x 2 tube welded in on the top link mount so it should be fully quick-hitch compatible. Then added some angle for a mounting frame for a storage basket:

 

[rswyan]

Basket was scavenged from an old upright freezer that gave up the ghost:

 

[rswyan]

12' x 12" x 1/4" sheet of oil-filled UHMW polyethylene from McMaster for the chute rotation bearing ... it's got so much oil in it that when you touch it leaves a sheen on your fingers ... lol:

 

[rswyan]

Drilled 2 holes in the basket mount angle for the basket clamps, also drilled a 3rd hole in the 3 x 2 tube. Since the 3 x 2 will capped, I went ahead and tapped that hole with a 1/4 coarse thread tap.

Took the side panels for the base and drilled 5 holes in each and then swapped the panels, mounting each on the opposite side so that the angle and the holes were outboard where they were accessible. Used the holes to run some 1/4" tapcons into the 4 x 6 x 48 skids to secure the skids to the chipper. The skids should eliminate the tendency for the chipper to tip over towards the back.

Also cleaned up the square rod on the PTO with a needle scaler and a wire wheel in a die grinder:

 

[rswyan]

Got the feed roller lift/pivot converted over to foot-operated.

Cut two 10" pieces of (I think) 1" Schedule 80 pipe and welded them to the ends of the feed roller pivot arms @ a 45 degree angle. Then took the handle that I cut off of the forward portion of the feed roller pivot arms and used the O/A torch to heat it and bend it (in 4 places) to fit into the pipe I had welded on.

Also cut the rear portion of the feed chute apart and the modified the mounting tabs so that the rear side panels would be parallel to those on the front portion of the chute. This will require adding some additional metal to the bottom panel to accommodate the increased width:

Hopefully this last mod will allow the chipper to pull material in a little easier.

 

[rswyan]

Cut out the plastic bearing for the rotating chute last night.

I measured the bottom flange and then scribed a line using a set of dividers, sizing the O.D. of the bearing slightly less than the OD of the flange, and the I.D. of the bearing slightly more than the I.D. of the flange:

 

[rswyan]

Initially I tried cutting the oil-filled UHMW polyethylene with the Sawzall. This didn't work so well ... mainly because the teeth on the blade were facing the wrong direction, pulling the plastic upwards, leaving "fuzz" and obscuring the scribed line. And because it didn't take much to make the plastic ... smoke ...

So I tied a jig saw blade in a pair of Vise Grips (I don't own a jig saw ... but I do have some blades ) ... not really workable since the blade wouldn't stay in without cocking ...

I finally settled on a fine tooth hacksaw blade, which I hand held. It didn't take too much of that torture on my index finger before I donned an old welding glove.

This was very time consuming (1/2 hour or more ?) to cut the O.D. ... but I was able to follow the scribe mark pretty closely and the kerf was small:

 

[rswyan]

For cutting the I.D. I decided to try using something else that had a motor on it ... since I wasn't real keen on spending another 1/2 hour (or more) and expending all the effort. So I broke out my Craftsman Roto-zip tool.

It ended up being a lot more messier, but I was able to get it reasonably close (close enough) and it was a whole lot quicker:

I cleaned up the I.D. and O.D with a rasp and several different files. Ain't pretty ... but like I said: close enough ...

Tested out the bearing by placing it on the lower flange and sticking the lower part of the chute on top and rotating it ... works great ... kudos to TBN member 445A for the bright idea ... :thumbsup:

 

[Brad_Blazer]

Good thread, I have one of these chippers too and will be following, waiting for some good video of the unit in action.

A coping saw would be ideal to cut your plastic by hand. I have a nice scroll saw that works pretty good on plastic. A jig saw would also work. They do pretty good on metal too.
I got this HF cheapie and so far so good using their multi-pack of bi-metal blades. You can even fasten it under a piece of plywood with the blade sticking up for projects like this.
5 Amp Heavy Duty Tool-Free Variable Speed Orbital Jig Saw
T-shank All Purpose Jigsaw Blade Assortment 30 Pc

Edit: I see you're already done! Nice work with the roto-zip. Those things can be hard to control.

 

[rswyan]

After that I decided to change out the gear oil in the feed roller gearbox ...

What came out initially looked fairly decent - pretty clear ... but I decided to dig a little deeper ... so I took a blowgun and blew a little compressed air into the fill hole on the gear box. Got more oil out with some water mixed in.

I continued to feed it compressed air and as I was doing so I started getting dark crud/mud out ... which eventually turned dark black.

I got a 120 cc syringe and shot two loads of kerosene into the box, blowing it out in between each load. Looked pretty clear after the 2nd one ... may give it another before I put any gear oil back in.

Also got the 2nd knife blade and anvil removed, and several more rows of teeth sharpened on the feed roller (only 3 rows to go !)

Plan to power wash the unit later today to get any remaining crud off of it..

 

[rswyan]

Good thread,

Thanks.

I have one of these chippers too and will be following, waiting for some good video of the unit in action.

I'll have to see if I can borrow a phone that does video from someone ...

A coping saw would be ideal to cut your plastic by hand.

LOL ... yeah ... (you'll get a laugh out of this: I actually have a coping saw ... but no blades :confused2

I have a nice scroll saw that works pretty good on plastic. A jig saw would also work. They do pretty good on metal too. I got this HF cheapie and so far so good using their multi-pack of bi-metal blades. You can even fasten it under a piece of plywood with the blade sticking up for projects like this.
5 Amp Heavy Duty Tool-Free Variable Speed Orbital Jig Saw
T-shank All Purpose Jigsaw Blade Assortment 30 Pc

Nice ... :thumbsup:

I used to have an old Black and Decker ... was a nice little unit ... should have held onto it. But yeah ... I think I need something along those lines for the non-straight cuts.

Edit: I see you're already done! Nice work with the roto-zip.

Thanks !

Those things can be hard to control.

Yup ... that's exactly why I was hesitant and didn't use it initially for the O.D.

 

[LarryD]

I like the mods you're making to the chipper. I often thought about making a rotating chute for mine, just has not been high enough on the list.
The only real issue I've had was the fly wheel was not true in the housing. I noticed the paint getting burned on the upper left portion so I removed the face (front?) and adjusted the pillow blocks so everything was true. It's worked fine ever since. I also keep the blades sharp. The local saw shop charges $20 for the 2 knives and $10 for the bed plate. I have two sets so it's always ready to go.
I don't experience clogging of the chute. Chipping is small Fir and Alder branches and I can stuff an armful at a time. I wonder if tree species plays a roll in how well these work?
Can't wait to see yours finished and in action.

 

[arto98607]

I bought one of these a number of years ago ... didn't really do anything as far as setting it up beyond the basic assembly of the unit. It performed relatively well initially ... aside from the normal stuff like the wobble-joint on the feed roller drive shaft and the feed roller drive belt self-destructing ...

I fixed the wobble-joint by welding on 1/2 impact universal joint I picked up at Harbor Freight and replaced the drive belt with something of decent quality from NAPA.

..........snip.............

I realize it's been over ten years since this was posted, but I hope it's OK to reactivate this since I am dealing with almost identical feed roller drive shaft in S&R Pro Chip PTO chipper I have owned for about 20 years!

My chipper was made by S&R Industries in Baker City, OR and the manufacturer closed shop long time ago, however as far as I know it was based on old Machete chipper design just like the Jinma chipper was or is.


The feeder drive shaft spring finally broke on mine and I was able to buy very similar but little weaker spring on the eBay, however I am interested to ask little more details on how you repaired the feeder drive shaft in your Jinma chipper:

Did you reuse the rest of the original drive shaft and just refitted it with (welded on) new 1/2" impact universal joints?
Did you reuse the original spring?

Any help would be appreciated by you or anyone else who may have dealt with the same issue.



Here is my S&R chipper: