Yet another snow plow
- Thread starter Jeepnford
- Start date
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4shorts
Elite Member
Cool! Glad I could inspire somone! Your going to really enjoy your plow and wonder how you could get by with out it. I just got back from plowing and it's cuts the plowing time down by 70%. As one member mentioned. You'll have to get used to taking some weight off the fel so you can get your steering control while taking a turn but the same has to be done with much larger equipment that I've operated in the past. Enjoy. You did a nice job on your set up.
rbutterfield
Bronze Member
Congrats, very nice work.
RonMar
Elite Member
Your fab work looks great, but I think you may have some issues with it when you actually get the chance to plow some snow. There was a gentelman who posted about a similar project a few months ago. You can read my thoughts on how I think it may perform there.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/133729-snow-plow-loader-modification-2.html
Good luck
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/133729-snow-plow-loader-modification-2.html
Good luck
4shorts
Elite Member
Ron I just viewed that link you provided and I can see why you would think the one in that link would have issues but in this case the plow isn't hinged and is very much different that that one you posted on in that link.
This adaptation is much the same as the one I did this past fall and I can tell you with certainty that it not only works but works perfectly. As I mentioned a few posts above the only change I made was to add two rear skid shoes to the rear of the plows "A" frame. I've plowed some heavy snow so far this winter that added up to 60 hours worth of plowing. This is how mine was done.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/131136-snow-plow-adapted-fel.html
JB4310
Super Member
4shorts,
As nice as yours is, (it's beautiful)
I don't think yours (resting on the back shoes) would work good on my driveway or the other neighbors I do, we have ramped up aprons to city side walk and uphill drives.
If you have your loader in float and have the weight resting on those back shoes as well as the front blade, once you went over the side walk (or any other big bumps or swales) the front of the blade would be up in the air.
Of course all you would have to do is roll your bucket cylinders forward so just the cutting blade was making contact, then it would follow any contour.
The plow I rigged to my 3 PT utilizes a chain to allow the front of the blade to truly float over the terrain pivoting at the rear of the A-frame just like when mounted on a truck. the trick was getting the right amount of slack in the chain so it would have enough downward movement but not so much to not allow it to be lifted when the 3 pt is raised.
Believe me I didn't have some great forethought on this, it was just the easiest way to put it together, it wasn't till after I started experimenting with it that I realized that's the only way it would work for my situation. As unorthodox as it looks, it has worked great, having a 6.5' power angle plow on one end and a 6' bucket on the other is just the cats meow.
I think on fairly level surfaces yours would be fine running on those rear shoes, and since your loader arms look very heavy it's probably better you spread the weight load like that instead of just all on the cutting edge.
But looking at the OP's first picture, it looks like if he just drops the loader into float, he's got the plow at a good angle just like it is and the rear of the A-frame would be high enough off the ground, with just the cutting edge contacting the ground and the loader in float it should follow the contour of uneven ground.
IMO he should be good to go.
JB.
As nice as yours is, (it's beautiful)
I don't think yours (resting on the back shoes) would work good on my driveway or the other neighbors I do, we have ramped up aprons to city side walk and uphill drives.
If you have your loader in float and have the weight resting on those back shoes as well as the front blade, once you went over the side walk (or any other big bumps or swales) the front of the blade would be up in the air.
Of course all you would have to do is roll your bucket cylinders forward so just the cutting blade was making contact, then it would follow any contour.
The plow I rigged to my 3 PT utilizes a chain to allow the front of the blade to truly float over the terrain pivoting at the rear of the A-frame just like when mounted on a truck. the trick was getting the right amount of slack in the chain so it would have enough downward movement but not so much to not allow it to be lifted when the 3 pt is raised.
Believe me I didn't have some great forethought on this, it was just the easiest way to put it together, it wasn't till after I started experimenting with it that I realized that's the only way it would work for my situation. As unorthodox as it looks, it has worked great, having a 6.5' power angle plow on one end and a 6' bucket on the other is just the cats meow.
I think on fairly level surfaces yours would be fine running on those rear shoes, and since your loader arms look very heavy it's probably better you spread the weight load like that instead of just all on the cutting edge.
But looking at the OP's first picture, it looks like if he just drops the loader into float, he's got the plow at a good angle just like it is and the rear of the A-frame would be high enough off the ground, with just the cutting edge contacting the ground and the loader in float it should follow the contour of uneven ground.
IMO he should be good to go.
JB.
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4shorts
Elite Member
JB the rear skids are there just as an insurance policy. Before I added the rear shoes and If I was out operating and I had my angle off a bit there was a chance that the rear plow angle cylinder bolts could dig into the surface of what I was plowing. With the shoes there that can't happen and I don't damage anyone's pavement including mine
The rear skids are hardly used in my case because most of the time I have my blade tilted ahead enough to cut the snow and neither the front or rear skids are in contact with the surface. As for using float on the FEL. I hardly ever use it. I get better steering control using the FEL without the float. Much the same way as I used the blade on a dozer or the large Cat loader I used to operate for a living.
You set up may work great for you but it wouldn't work for me. I have four parking lots that's around 400 X 400 feet and they need to be plowed fast as I can get them plowed. If I used your set up I would have no down pressure and wouldn't be able to pile the snow high unless I went back with the FEL and piled it higher later and that bites into my time. I watched a local guy here one day plowing with a blade attached to the rear of his 3ph and he looked like he was having a bad time. Always twisted in the seat, pain in his neck and his blade would pop up over and lumps of hard snow.
I wanted to keep my 3ph available for a snow blower which I did. One of our customers has a fenced compound that needs to be cleaned out every second snow fall. In the past I would lease a loader to carry all the snow out of the compound and it would take 1.5 hours to do. No I go in with the blower and blow it over the fence of the compound in 25 minutes for the same money
yep I'm smiling I guess it all boils down to what works for some may not work for others but for anyone one that's going to use a similar set up as I did and don't want to damage the surface there plowing the rear skids are essential in my opinion. Next time you see a tandem truck or a full sized backhoe with a plow on them take a good look at the rear portion of there plow set up and you'll see "Rear Skid Shoes".
Well one things for sure. This all makes for good conversation
Happy tractoring my friend. Great looking rig you have there by the way.
JB4310
Super Member
The rear skids are hardly used in my case because most of the time I have my blade tilted ahead enough to cut the snow and neither the front or rear skids are in contact with the surface. As for using float on the FEL. I hardly ever use it. I get better steering control using the FEL without the float. Much the same way as I used the blade on a dozer or the large Cat loader I used to operate for a living.
You set up may work great for you but it wouldn't work for me. I have four parking lots that's around 400 X 400 feet and they need to be plowed fast as I can get them plowed. If I used your set up I would have no down pressure and wouldn't be able to pile the snow high unless I went back with the FEL and piled it higher later and that bites into my time. I watched a local guy here one day plowing with a blade attached to the rear of his 3ph and he looked like he was having a bad time. Always twisted in the seat, pain in his neck and his blade would pop up over and lumps of hard snow.
Well one things for sure. This all makes for good conversation
Yes it does make for good conversation
I guess all this snow removal equipment talk is gonna be over for the season pretty soon, although your higher up there on the map grid, I'm sure you have a much longer winter?Now I understand better with your skid shoes, they're more for protecting the vulnerable rear of the plow frame, than used to ride on.
I have seen your video and how fast yours is, agree for production you would not want to be plowing in reverse all the time, Not sure how you get away with not using float though, but you did say you have a background in equipment operating. When I first got my loader, I tried using it to clear snow before I figured out I had a float position, man I made a mess and it was very frustrating.
I've found now with a bucket there's no need for down pressure, if it's not scrapping down clean, just roll it to make for a more aggressive angle.
I do plan on adapting this plow for front loader use next year, so I'll be facing the same situation with how to get it to ride the terrain just right. I realize now for front mount the chain setup will not work and plow frame must be fixed in one position. I want to use my fork carrier to mount the plow to, I still have the A-frame connection piece from the orig undercarriage, but not sure I'll be able to mount it reward enough on the fork frame so plow is not sticking out 4'.
It has to be fully removable from the fork carrier as well so I can still use my forks of course. Don't know, it might be easier/better to start with a dedicated plow adaptor frame for my JD QA loader system. That would be pushing my metal fabrication skill level, but I do have all the tools so it might be good practice/experience.
JB.
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