Yet another trailer decking question...

[WinterDeere]

I know there have been several threads on trailer decking here, for various applications and trailer types, but here's one more: It's time to replace the decking on my log and tractor hauler, which is a Big Tex 70TV closed-side landscape trailer with 2x6 PT decking.



The PT works well for skidding logs in with the winch, or dragging them out with the tractor. Slick enough to allow logs to slide, no paint to damage, and yet grippy enough when dry that things don't slide too badly on their own.



Then again, when it's mossy and wet as it was this weekend, it's as slick as greased ice. I took a header while loading a rocking chair onto the trailer today, don't know how I didn't manage to break anything on myself or the chair.

It spends its life outdoors, but I'm been debating building a roof over it to protect the new decking:



I don't love the new PT, at least partly because it's so corrosive it causes any metal on the trailer in contact with the wood to rot. But it's a cheap trailer, used for cheap things (firewood = saving money on oil, tractor hauling = saving money on paid hauler), it doesn't make sense to invest in Ipe or Mahogany decking on this thing.

People keep suggesting aluminum on these threads, but I have no idea where I'd even find that, or why it should be less slippery than wood. If you even utter the "A" word, you'd better come with a source for where I can source the stuff, not just a dream of what might be best.

What would you use, if this were yours?

 

[John0829]

Local sawmill, rough sawn oak, treat with diesel and used motor oil it will probably out last the trailer.

 

[WinterDeere]

I'm close to Heacock Lumber, who process a lot of oak, but they only sell it green and full rough dimensions. I'd have to dry and mill it, which I am set up to do, but it means postponing install until at least end of summer.

If I'm going to do all that work, it'd have to be white oak, since red rots too fast, but I can call and see if they mill white in those lengths and sizes.

edit: I see they now list kiln drying and s2s / s4s. That's new, as far as I know.

Another thought would be to just use 2x6x16 PT, because it's cheap, and lay down plastic strips on the crossmembers to provide a little contact insulation between the PT chemical and the metal trailer frame.

 

[QRTRHRS]

I see articles about deck building where the builder is placing some kind of strips on the joists. Wonder if those would work?

 

[WinterDeere]

I see articles about deck building where the builder is placing some kind of strips on the joists. Wonder if those would work?

I'd probably just buy a roll of adhesive-backed 1/16" x 2" polyethelene (i.e. Tupperware), and roll that onto the angle steel before laying down the new pressure treated. It wouldn't really protect the trailer sides where the wood contacts, but that probably gets rinsed clean by rain and snow better than the members running under the planking anyway.

This trailer was something like $3500 new, so the decking solution will need to be cheap. In other words, before I go spending $1k in decking, I'd think of just selling this trailer ($1800?) and buying a new one with fresh decking and everything else new.

 

[WinterDeere]

Okay, just ordered white oak to be sawn. Total cost is $450 for white oak in 6/4, versus $325 for red oak, so no real comparison when considering superior rot resistance of white.

I'm also going to take the opportunity to relocate my two large batteries to the rear of the trailer for more manageable tongue weight, while I have the decking off. Will also be a good chance to needle scale, wire brush and repaint any areas that need it.

I might even get around to building a lift-off roof to go over the whole rig. I had looked at that years ago, but prior to losing a deck in under 10 years, had figured it wasn't worth the effort. I'm re-thinking that, now. A lightweight A-frame with a pair of lifting hooks at the ridge, covered in cedar shake or even corrugated metal, would protect the whole trailer when sitting in the woods. Set it on the trailer railings with a few tie-downs in the corners to keep it from blowing off, and then lift it off with the loader to set in the lawn when trailer is in use, given I only use this trailer a half dozen times per year.

 

[Norm W]

I was able to get 2X8 locust 24' long to deck my trailer. The wood doesn't seem to rot when used as fence posts. I'm coating it with drain oil just to be on the safe side. I guess it depends what part of the country you are in as to what is available. It stands up to a Cat 212 grader, so I guess it passes the strength test too.

 

[WinterDeere]

Yeah, I've always heard locust is good, too.

My window sills were made of white oak, installed between 1734 and 1775. Most are still doing fine, after 300 years in constant weather and contact with damp stone and mud, so I guess it passes the rot resistance test.

No one ever claimed oak was less than brutally hard either, so no worries on strength. It will definitely surpass the 2x8 PT SYP it's replacing!

The only down side is weight, as it's quite a bit heavier than seasoned PT SYP.