YM 1401 Brakes

[MarkStewart]

I have put over 100 hours on my little 1401 since I bought it. It seems the brakes have gone beyond their adjustment and aren't working like they should. I almost backed down a big hill I didn't have any intention of backing down /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif So after reading through the archives on this forum I decided to check them out. I hear that they can be switched around. What I was wondering is, should I switch the set from the left side to the right side? Also when I took one side apart it was caked with mud and corrosion. I cleaned the drums and pads etc. with my drill with wire wheel. The pads themselves only had about an 1/8 of an inch remaining on them. So should I even bother switching them around or should I just get them relined? And if so where would be a good place to have that done? Thanks.

 

[onespeedreed]

how do you adjust the brakes on a yanmar 1401 tractor

 

[winston1]

this is a good thread covering brake adjustment. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/224303-brake-adjustment-question.html

Here is a good parts drawing on your 1401 brakes. Seems they don't have the turnbuckle adjustment as many models do. Instead they have yokes on the ends of the brake rods. Adjustment would still be the same. Loosen locknut's and turn the rod to extend or retract as needed. Yanmar Tractor Parts: BRAKES

 

[Todd8665]

Switching the pads depends on whether they are symmetrical or not. I.E. the mechanism(s) that hold the shoes align no matter which way the shoe is placed inside the drum.

I did one side of my 2210. Bought new pads, but found that the old shoes had enough meat on them that I could reuse. The actual brake cover can be attached in several different orientations too, and mine was done incorrectly so it appeared that I had no more adjustment in the linkage. I flipped the shoes (the inside was worn more than the outside) and attached the cover plate so that I again had adjustment in the linkage. On the 2210 there is a static cam that one side of the shoes rests on. Per recommendation I rotated that Cam 90 degrees which pushed the shoes out slightly further. Back in business.

FYI Warning! The replacement shoes i bought were to big to fit into the drum. This is done "on purpose" to allow for the turning of the drums. I would have had to turn my drums (which they could have used) or shaved down the pads to get them to fit.

 

[clemsonfor]

who would turn tractor drums? I just put them back on when i got my cam unstuck...who cares if there pitted or gouged a bit? Its a tractor not a race car. I have used gouged rotors on my street vehicles its not a big deal in most cases. Now sever cases is a different story.

 

[Todd8665]

who would turn tractor drums? I just put them back on when i got my cam unstuck...who cares if there pitted or gouged a bit? Its a tractor not a race car. I have used gouged rotors on my street vehicles its not a big deal in most cases. Now sever cases is a different story.

Me if i cant get the pads to fit.

 

[clemsonfor]

yea i guess. id be worried it would take a bunch of effort to unstick the drum to pull it!

 

[normde2001]

Me if i cant get the pads to fit.

Where did you get your shoes? Have never heard/read of that problem.

 

[winston1]

Where did you get your shoes? Have never heard/read of that problem.

I don't want to go looking for it but I think I remember someone else having trouble getting new shoes to go in.

 

[winston1]

Where did you get your shoes? Have never heard/read of that problem.

I don't want to go looking for it but I think I remember someone else having trouble getting new shoes to go in.

 

[Todd8665]

Where did you get your shoes? Have never heard/read of that problem.

Hoye. I contacted them and Aaron was aware of the size difference. He said you would have to grind the shoes, or turn the drums. It probably doesn't matter but my instincts lead me to prefer to turning the drum. The new shoes have much less abrasive material than the originals - they are not going to last as long straight out of the box and your'e going to have to take at least? a 1/16th of an inch off that.... As you pointed out though, its a tractor not a race car. If the old shoes lasted 30 years is it a big deal if the new ones only lasted 10?

 

[clemsonfor]

I don't want to go looking for it but I think I remember someone else having trouble getting new shoes to go in.

You can say that again!!!


Why does this stupid forum software double post like 6 years after they swapped the software??? They still havent got the bugs out. NO other forum i am on does this unless its a person on a phone with bad signal and they hit post twice as they cant tell if it went though.

 

[normde2001]

Hoye. I contacted them and Aaron was aware of the size difference. He said you would have to grind the shoes, or turn the drums. It probably doesn't matter but my instincts lead me to prefer to turning the drum. The new shoes have much less abrasive material than the originals - they are not going to last as long straight out of the box and your'e going to have to take at least? a 1/16th of an inch off that.... As you pointed out though, its a tractor not a race car. If the old shoes lasted 30 years is it a big deal if the new ones only lasted 10?

That turns a simple brake job into a train wreck. Hoye needs to address that issue. Would much rather get old shoes relined.

 

[clemsonfor]

That turns a simple brake job into a train wreck. Hoye needs to address that issue. Would much rather get old shoes relined.

I know places do this still but as a consumer do we have an option these days to have this done anywhere?

 

[clemsonfor]

And the brake shoes are not cheap!!!! i would think you could have them relined for the same or less....if there is a place that still will go one off sets?

 

[Todd8665]

And the brake shoes are not cheap!!!! i would think you could have them relined for the same or less....if there is a place that still will go one off sets?

If I remember correctly the linings on the original shoes were dovetailed on, not riveted. Does that make a difference when re-lining?

 

[clemsonfor]

I am honestly too young (33) to know much about that. I did work on an auto parts store and do all my own work on all kinds of things (yes i know how to do drums and shoes). We had some reman shoes that were bonded and some rivited. I think they can bond the material? But like i said i am no expert on it.

I do know many of the old automotive trade specialties have gone by the wayside with cheap china throwaway parts. And there is no longer the machine shop in every town that does heads and engines. Hard to find a starter/alt rebuld shop and even harder to find a radiator repair place now a days!

 

[HoyeTractor]

I contacted them and Aaron was aware of the size difference. He said you would have to grind the shoes, or turn the drums. It probably doesn't matter but my instincts lead me to prefer to turning the drum. The new shoes have much less abrasive material than the originals - they are not going to last as long straight out of the box and your'e going to have to take at least? a 1/16th of an inch off that....

That turns a simple brake job into a train wreck. Hoye needs to address that issue. Would much rather get old shoes relined.

You do not remove the friction material. You remove a little bit off of the metal pad that rests on the cam.... if needed. You can use a file, die grinder, or hand grinder. It is an easy job and takes less than a minute. It is pretty uncommon to need to do that but it does happen occasionally if the circumstances are just right. Some linings are extra thick for some reason (see below).

Unfortunately, this is just another case where there is just not enough demand for a product. There is just one company having these made and we are at their mercy. The quality is fine for what they are but could certainly be better. They function just fine and durability is fine but there are some irregularities with the initial fit. I just don't have the budget right now to get a few thousand shoes made that fit only 1 model. The minimum production run would last us about 60 years.

 

[HoyeTractor]

I know places do this still but as a consumer do we have an option these days to have this done anywhere?

Here are a couple online that I found:

Vintage Brake Comments

BRAKE SHOE RELINING AND CLUTCH DISC RELINING

Unlimited Service Bellingham Automotive Repair Domestic Foreign ASE Certified

Relining Brake & Clutch Parts on Industrial, Tractor-Trailer, and more | Edmonton Brake & Clutch Ltd.

 

[clemsonfor]

You do not remove the friction material. You remove a little bit off of the metal pad that rests on the cam.... if needed. You can use a file, die grinder, or hand grinder. It is an easy job and takes less than a minute. It is pretty uncommon to need to do that but it does happen occasionally if the circumstances are just right. Some linings are extra thick for some reason (see below).

Unfortunately, this is just another case where there is just not enough demand for a product. There is just one company having these made and we are at their mercy. The quality is fine for what they are but could certainly be better. They function just fine and durability is fine but there are some irregularities with the initial fit. I just don't have the budget right now to get a few thousand shoes made that fit only 1 model. The minimum production run would last us about 60 years.

That makes a lot more sense to remove metal where they mount on the cams vs grinding the lining!!