YM 2200 Eng Rebuild

[rock2610D]

Not sure of the exactness of this data but the John Deere 650 had a 2 Cylinder in it with 80 mm bores I believe.

I have data for that engine if its the same as yours let me know what you need and I will try to give you it. Better yet if it is the same engine you could purchase a Tech manual for a 650 and go from there.

 

[tmar04]

jimsxl, how is the rebuild going? I have ym2500 (3T80 eng) that needs rings replaced. bearings too, I guess. how big a job is it? I have replaced head gasket but that is about as far as I have gone. any special tools needed? thx to all for any advice.

 

[rock2610D]

No special tools needed. Pretty easy really. Torque wrench needs to be small to get up in the crank area to torque the rod bolts though.

While head is off take head and have it checked, cheap insurance.

I suggest a JD 850,950,1050 manual it covers the 3T80 engine perfectly!!!

 

[RobJ]

Danny, those torque values for the head&rod bolts sound about right,but 22-29lbs.for the mains seems way too little.Did you forget to add 100 lbs. to those numbers? Jim

I thought the same thing and looked my Kubota. I'm gonig to guess the engine design is different. On mine the crank slides out of the back of the engine...not the bottom like on all the others I've rebuilt. Main bearing bolts (M9 I think) that hold the bearing around the crank are 34-37 ft-lbs. Then you slide in the crank with these mains attached, the bolts that lock these into pmace (m10) are 50-54 lb-ft.

Here is a quick screen shot.

Rob

 

[tmar04]

I assume the Yanny just goes in from the bottom, straight up. How about tools to scuff up the cyl walls, so rings will seat? and ring compressor tool, so piston will fit down in the cyl? any need for these? thanks.(my engine runs fine, starts good, etc. just smokes and uses oil!) No need for extensive , complete overhaul. just my opinion, tho.

 

[jimsxl]

tmar04,My re-build will be wrapped up in the morning.Your engine is a 3cyl. mine is a 2cyl,but re-building either is basicly the same.These engines are so simple it's unreal, but need to be sure that the smallest detail is not overlooked.While you have it down,replace the cyl.liners unless your machine shop says they dead on the money.This no small job,so if you aren't well experiecened with engines,you should seek help if you want this to turn out right.Feel free to ask,I'll help, Good luck Jim

 

[tmar04]

jim, why do I need to replace liners? eng has 1000 hrs and is original. I thought I could get by with just replacing rings and bearings. Diesel mechanics are hard to find around here. How can I tell if the liners need to be replaced? thanks. Terry (already had head off couple months ago and checked good)

 

[rock2610D]

This is where a manual will help. There are tolarances for the liners, piston to wall clearances and rings. Not knowing those tolerances make things ruff. I have all that data for a 3T80 but its too much to type.. Ebay sell disks for the JD 850 which has the 3T80 in it.

Just throwing in a set of rings and bearings might work but I personnaly would "feel" better if I knew all tolerances were with in spec.

Cylinder liner ID new=80.0mm to 80.03mm wear tolerance = 80.2mm
Liner to Piston clearance = new .08 to .15 mm wear tolerance = .30mm

ETC ETC ETC........................

New liners are easy to install but old ones can be difficult to remove!


1000 hours right!! Did you know the 2610s hour meter only registers correct time if engine is at 2300 rpm??? Anything less than 2300 rpm and 1hour equals 2, 3, 4 or more hours of use. A tractor could run at 1800 rpm easily for lets say 10 real hours. The hour meter will only register (1800/2300)*10 hours or 7.7 hours. off by 23% It get worse if engine is regulary operated at say 1500 rpm 10 real hours = 6.5 hours =35% If idleing well you get the picture... Mine only had 1500 hours on it when I put new pistons, liners, rings, head, and pump on it.

 

[1danny]

Hi All, I'm doing a complete overhaul on my YM200. I have the engine cleaned , ready for new cylinders,my question is ,the liners came with two o-rings for the bottom of the cylinders,but what seals the top? Should I use a sealer or does the headgasket take care of sealing the top of the cyl. liner? Should I use any kind of sealer on the headgasket? I also need to know the torque specs.for the rod,main bearings,and head.The rod bearings broke @ 45lbs, the main bearings broke@125lbs,however I think that would be too much.This is my first deisel eng.rebuild,so I realy need some help. You guy's are great,and I thank you. Jim

Jim, I sent you a PM.

Danny

 

[RobJ]

I assume the Yanny just goes in from the bottom, straight up. How about tools to scuff up the cyl walls, so rings will seat? and ring compressor tool, so piston will fit down in the cyl? any need for these? thanks.(my engine runs fine, starts good, etc. just smokes and uses oil!) No need for extensive , complete overhaul. just my opinion, tho.

1000 hours I wouldn't resleeve it either. Because if you ring and sleeve it then someone is going to say new pistons to, then wrist pins, then wrist pin bushing. Unless you SEE a lot of wear you probably still see the factory crosshatching in there. Even a slight ridge at the top of the cylinder is ok. Just depends on how much you want to do. Mine has 1300 hours on it and I'm going to re ring it later this year sometime. It's just got a little blow by, runs fine thou and I probably do not need to do anything. I would replace the rod bearing while in there. Maybe even the mains. They are probably not that expensive. I'd price them. Heck one set of rings for mine are $60!!! Robbery!!!

To rough up the cylinders, get a cherry ball hone. Work it slow moving it in and out for 2-3 minutes. About all it takes. Any car ring compressor will work. You could get by without it if you are careful. You are more likely to break a ring putting it on the piston vs installing in the cylinder. But if you haven't done it before, then buy a cheap one.