YM1500 wont start air escaping near fuel pump?

[Torx]

Why would you drain the fuel for 6 months storage? Leave the fuel in it, just put fresh fuel with a fuel treatment for algae or similar in it and park it. Deisel is not like gas and can sit for years and still run just fine also the fuel will not hurt to be left in the system, you can turn the petcock off if you like if your worried about a leak or something but i would not remove the fuel unless you think it will be say 3 years or something till you were going to use it and then i probably would still leave the fuel in it.

Also i think you have low compression and or broken or stuck rings, possibly from eitther.

Hello Clemson,
Thanks for the reply.
I drained the fuel this year because I bought this tractor in the off season of 2012 after the owner, a friend of mine, had some vandals remove the gas cap and flatten the front tires. They also made mincemeat of the pan seat. The tank needed a good scrubbing out and since it had a new fuel pump and me not knowing the history of the fuel, I gave the fuel tank a good cleaning and rinsing with fresh diesel and replaced the soft fuel lines. Last summer, before I cleaned the tank out, I drained the tank and replaced with fresh diesel. After my (uh hum mechanic friend) had burned up the starter and who knows if he used starter fluid or not, my guess is yes he did, gave up on getting it started, I was able to get it started by pulling it with my YM226. It would start in a very short distance and would run great. It key started for several days once I replaced the starter and ran so well I fully expected it to start after I replaced the fuel tank and filters, bled the fuel lines etc. When bleeding the fuel lines recently after it sat in my barn for the winter (with adequate antifreeze), is when I saw the bubbles around the fuel filter. So, it went from last fall, key starting and running like a top, to this early summer to not even a cough. I have used a 2 second spray with designed for diesel starting fluid that contains a lubricant and only 25% ether on two occasions this summer and the engine will just slow down for a second but will not fire. I have tried that twice. I am getting good fuel at all bleed points and have pulled the tractor with no success. If I remove the fuel lines at the injectors, the fuel will fly a good 3 feet in mid air!
Other than a simple tank scrub and fuel flush, filter replacement, and a couple of soft fuel line replacements. And a battery charge and an air filter, what could have happened between last October and this June to take a key starting, great running and easy idling tractor into a won't even cough with key start or a gentle pull by my other tractor?. I had another ugly 1500 that went through the same treatment fuel flush and filter wise and started right up without a thermostart present and sold to the first looker. My YM226 started without using the thermostart as well. My barn is insulated and other than a few spiders, there haven't been any critters in the barn. Sorry sir, I don't mean to rant but I am scratching my head as the tractor I speak of is in the best shape of any tractor I have ever had and I just did a full rebuild on my previous ugly YM1500 before selling it. I plan on selling this YM1500 if the offer is right. If not, everything works electrically and it has new front tires and a new seat! lol Just frustrating.

 

[Torx]

That injector pump is bolted to the block inside there its open to the oil resivoir, so and fuel leaking internal will add to the oil level, meaning you would have deisel and oil mixing in the crank case. I think the rod its connected to has more to do with the timing and front of the engine than anything to do with a piston???

and a cracked ring would allow excess pressure to escape by the piston into the crankcase which would then bubble around the injector pump, but more quesionable is why is the pressure not escaping the path of least resistance which is the crankcase vent? A tube above the pump that should have a rubber hose comin out of it. its open to the oil and crankcase as well and pressure should escape thorugh that before forcing around the pump? Again like someone already sugessted is there like dirt daubers or something in that hose?

Yes sir your correct about the fuel pump. On the right side, it has plungers that pass through to the cam shaft. They each get alternately struck by a tappet on a raised lobe that are mounted on the cam shaft. This times the gravity fed fuel injector pump to release some fuel from it's reservoir. You have to give it to the Yanmar engineers who had a fuel injected tractor without a single on tractor computer to control it. Thats why I love Yanmars.

Is the crankcase vent the same as the blow by tube? If not, I will recheck the hose you mention and winston mentioned for any obstructions again.

I haven't noticed any discoloration or pooling in the oil. I drained the oil after pulling the tractor and trying to start it numerous times using the compression release. Honestly, I was looking for coolant in the fuel in case my storage 50/50 coolant didn't handle the unseasonably cold 18 degrees F. we had here this past winter lol

 

[Torx]

Thanks California,
I did check the linkage at the valve cover openings and the compression release is working as advertised. Im a big fan of using the compression release each time I cold start any of my tractors.

 

[clemsonfor]

i dont think your 50/50 solution failed, its fine. 18 is cold to us southerners but its not that cold really for that mix ratio.

Yes the tube i am talking about is the blowby tube winston talked about.

With all the rinsing, washing, and drying out and rehydrating i would say some trash broke loose and could be lodged in the pump or lines restricting flow somewhere. But you say the injectors are shooting fuel 3 ft high.

Have you tried starting it with jumper cables hooked up to say your running car or truck to just make sure that the battery is spinning the starter fast enough? i know it should have started when pull starting but i too am head scratching at this point.

Only other thing is ....time for a compression check.

 

[Torx]

Wow, I am hoping I don't pull the head and find a piston looking like that one. Before I bought this tractor for $700, I hate to think of how many shade-tree mechanics like myself, came to my friend who owned this tractor before me's rescue with an SAE tool set in one hand and a can of ether in the other.
Since it ran so well last fall, before putting it away, and started after pulling it I am trying to think of any other possibilities before I have to buy the compression adapter and come up with a injector pulling mechanism. I saw where Hoye was renting them in the off-season but don't see the rental anymore.
Could the injectors be stopped up with debris from the fuel cap being gone for a winter and the camshaft turning really gave the injector pump a little extra HP?
Could pulling the tractor to start it have helped build enough pressure to have started the tractor and a very slow leak around the fuel pump have leaked off enough pressure over time to stop the key starting from happening,

I hate to tear into the engine as you can probably guess. I hate to drop any more money into this tractor. But it isn't doing any good just sitting in the barn either.
I am literally up to my elbows in a 96 Dodge Ram, replacing the lower manifold and air plenums. Add this to barely being able to walk due to a spinal cord injury, and I really have to choose my fights.

Thanks for any and all suggestions. I really get a lot of help here.

 

[Torx]

Thank You California,
I have checked the linkage and am a big fan of using the compression release on all my tractors on a cold start,
The linkage at the valves are fine and the engine really whirs the slows to a chug when the compression release is released. Is that a dangling participle sentence?

 

[careyo63]

I'm guessing that possibly the "Uh Hum Mech. friend" may have Adj. the valves. May want to check and see if they are set to the correct Specs. It was simple to check my YM2000 when I was going through it after I purchased it. Maybe so tight there not seating correctly?

 

[Torx]

Any other suggestions?

Valves out of adjustment?
Head gasket leaking compression?
A spider laid eggs in the injectors?
Someone put a timing chain on my tractor?
I don't want to do a partial rebuild!!!!
I must do a complete rebuild and I live on a VA disability pension.!!!

 

[careyo63]

If the Valves Check out to be correct and won't Hit or Run on starting fluid then you can just about forget it runnning on Diesel. Your going to have to pull the Inj. and check the spray. If there's spray, the valves check to be set correct then compression is the only thing left.

 

[California]

Just thinking of possible problems short of needing a rebuild: Maybe that's not diesel but water coming out of the injectors? And the spray pattern should be a 360* spray, rather than a 3 ft spurt.

When you crank or pull it and it doesn't fire - what is coming out of the exhaust? White would be adequately vaporized fuel, or water vapor, while black is partial combustion.

From your description it sounds like you have some compression so pulling should fire it off - so long as that stuff coming out of the injectors is volatile.

Maybe collect a sample at the injector lines into a jar to see if it's water. You've probably read that diesel after it goes through the injectors is at so much pressure that it can penetrate skin and poison you. So it would be better to loosen the lines at the injectors, stand back a safe distance, and let it dribble into your collection bottle(s). Think safety.