She's mine! Just finished up sorting and organizing everything. Got the old tractor and parts buttoned up and put to the side and laid out all of the new tractor parts and pieces. Everything looks awesome so far and the new tractor is extremely clean and rust free. I have all the old parts as well as the new, which I appreciate so that I can understand where the previous owner left off and why they did what they did. I'll get some pictures/videos up this week. I'm excited to continue this project!
YM226D Project
- Thread starter tc197
- Start date
One thing I have some questions on is the injector pump. My original YM226d had a 721550-51700 T86 injector pump. This new tractor came with two injector pumps, one is a 721550-51700 that is completely disassembled and stored in plastic bags, the other is a 3T72SA injector pump and is currently installed in the tractor. From what I have found online, the 721550-51700 looks to be correct, but are these pumps interchangeable? Without knowing any better, my gut reaction is to take the pump out of my old tractor and use it on this one. This seems like the most efficient path forward because I don't have to assemble the new pump and I am fairly confident it's the correct pump for the tractor.
With that said, I pulled the 721550-51700 out of the old tractor and noticed some small scratches. Is this a problem?
With that said, I pulled the 721550-51700 out of the old tractor and noticed some small scratches. Is this a problem?
bmaverick
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2013
- Messages
- 4,623
- Location
- Beloit-WI
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM2610 ■YANMAR GURU■ EXTRAORDINAIRE
Not sure about the scratches being a problem or not.
I do know that the 'same' engine in various Yanmar models use different fuel pumps to achieve higher or lower engine Hp. If you knew the fuel pumps flow rate, of the unknown pump, you could determine if a 1Hp to 3Hp gain could be had.
The 3T72SA fuel pump came off of a YM1510 or a YM1502. The engine piston diameter is just 3mm [1/8in-ish] difference. It could flow very much the same.
Glad you have both machines under one roof.
Thanks Bmaverick!
I did some more digging now knowing the 3t72sa came from the YM1502 or YM1510. It appears that several OEM numbers were used originally but if you were to replace the injection pump today, several of them cross reference to the same IP-375 pump.
Between the Hoye site and Southern Global I am finding IP-375 replaces OEM #’s 721550-51700, 721461-51700, 721454-51700, and 721520-51700. This corresponds to tractor models YM187, 220, 226, 250, 1301, 1401, 1502, 1510, 1601, 1610, 1702, 1800, 1802, 1810, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2010, 2020, 2202, 2220, 2240, 2301, 2310, 2402, 2420, and JD750.
Since the 1502/1510 and the 226 cross reference to the same IP-375, it makes sense why this 3t72sa pump was used and I believe is correct.
I did some more digging now knowing the 3t72sa came from the YM1502 or YM1510. It appears that several OEM numbers were used originally but if you were to replace the injection pump today, several of them cross reference to the same IP-375 pump.
Between the Hoye site and Southern Global I am finding IP-375 replaces OEM #’s 721550-51700, 721461-51700, 721454-51700, and 721520-51700. This corresponds to tractor models YM187, 220, 226, 250, 1301, 1401, 1502, 1510, 1601, 1610, 1702, 1800, 1802, 1810, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2010, 2020, 2202, 2220, 2240, 2301, 2310, 2402, 2420, and JD750.
Since the 1502/1510 and the 226 cross reference to the same IP-375, it makes sense why this 3t72sa pump was used and I believe is correct.
Took the valves apart today and cleaned them up. A friend told me to use a dry erase marker and color on the sealing face of the valve. Then, put the valve in, twist it 90 degrees, remove it and verify that the dry erase marker was cleaned off 360 degrees around. All the valves passed this test and look to be in good shape.
Opened up the new pistons and rings and started getting things together. I took the cylinder liners out, and put each ring into the liner it will be installed in and verified the gap was correct. A couple needed to be opened up a few thousandths. I installed the pistons onto the connecting rods and am waiting for my ring spreader to arrive before putting the rings on the pistons.
Once I get the rings on I think I'm ready to put the new bearings in place and install everything back into the block. I'll put the oil pan back on with a new gasket and install the head with a new head gasket and see where I'm at.
Opened up the new pistons and rings and started getting things together. I took the cylinder liners out, and put each ring into the liner it will be installed in and verified the gap was correct. A couple needed to be opened up a few thousandths. I installed the pistons onto the connecting rods and am waiting for my ring spreader to arrive before putting the rings on the pistons.
Once I get the rings on I think I'm ready to put the new bearings in place and install everything back into the block. I'll put the oil pan back on with a new gasket and install the head with a new head gasket and see where I'm at.
Thanks Bmaverick, I double checked and the specs from the manual I was referencing are provided in inches. The new tractor also came with an original service manual (not a reprint) and it is night and day better than my reprinted one. All of the pictures are crisp and no sections are missing or incomplete.
Big night tonight. I installed the pistons with new bearings and rings, got the oil pan back on, new oil filter, new head gasket and installed the head. Everything went super smooth up to this point - I used a bunch of assembly lube and triple checked torque specs before closing things up.
After torqueing the eight head bolts and 3 head assist bolts down I put the pushrods and valve wear tappets back in place and dropped the rocker arm shaft assembly on. The final step to secure everything was to tighten the rocker shaft assembly down using the brass looking nuts on the three stepped studs. I screwed the studs into place by hand and went to secure the nuts following the 40 ft lbs spec from the manual and ran into problems. The nuts started to snug down and then started spinning. The nuts appear to be stripping out on the studs and when I went to remove the nuts the entire stud came out instead. The nuts are now stuck on the studs and I can tell the nut or stud is stripped. Any thoughts on what went wrong?
I'm glad it's just the studs/nuts because that is easy enough to replace (I also have a spare set from the other tractor) but I'm not convinced if I were to try it again I would get different results. Is the 40 ft lb spec wrong? Is there a special technique that is required and I don't know about it?
After torqueing the eight head bolts and 3 head assist bolts down I put the pushrods and valve wear tappets back in place and dropped the rocker arm shaft assembly on. The final step to secure everything was to tighten the rocker shaft assembly down using the brass looking nuts on the three stepped studs. I screwed the studs into place by hand and went to secure the nuts following the 40 ft lbs spec from the manual and ran into problems. The nuts started to snug down and then started spinning. The nuts appear to be stripping out on the studs and when I went to remove the nuts the entire stud came out instead. The nuts are now stuck on the studs and I can tell the nut or stud is stripped. Any thoughts on what went wrong?
I'm glad it's just the studs/nuts because that is easy enough to replace (I also have a spare set from the other tractor) but I'm not convinced if I were to try it again I would get different results. Is the 40 ft lb spec wrong? Is there a special technique that is required and I don't know about it?