YM240D front axle shim wear

[oksanaut]

Status update:

I am back at the ranch, got into the garage and measured shims. Also took picture of how one of the better survivors fits:

 

[rScotty]

Status update:

I am back at the ranch, got into the garage and measured shims. Also took picture of how one of the better survivors fits:

View attachment 558717

It's sounding to me like you are going to win this one.
Better look out though....You are in danger of becoming the "go to guy" for 4wd front axle know how.
My guess is these old Yanmars will go just as long as someone cares to keep replacing worn parts & pieces. They are just like an old Chevy....infinitely rebuildable.

 

[normde2001]

I'm guessing someone had the unit apart and did not install the shims properly, thus the damaged shim and leak. I would just clean up the shims and reassemble with other new parts. Dern, just read through srscotty's post. he beat me to it.

 

[rScotty]

Status update:

I am back at the ranch, got into the garage and measured shims. Also took picture of how one of the better survivors fits:

View attachment 558717

What are the measurements of that shim? Do you think it originally was intended to go around that axle in that location? Shims work by spacing bearings - and the other side of the bearing generally pushes up against something hard - like a machined surface -- or sometimes a circlip, And depending on the design & designer, sometimes the inner bearing race is shimmed and sometimes the outer. Now if that shim works in that location by spacing the inner race of a bearing held on the other side by that circlip, the ID looks a little too large. And if they are spacing the outer bearing race then the OD looks small. Makes me wonder if that particular shim goes with a bearing at that axle location at all.
rScotty

 

[normde2001]

Enlarge and check the marks on the mangled shim. It obviously was not properly seated from the beginning.

 

[oksanaut]

What are the measurements of that shim? Do you think it originally was intended to go around that axle in that location? Shims work by spacing bearings - and the other side of the bearing generally pushes up against something hard - like a machined surface -- or sometimes a circlip, And depending on the design & designer, sometimes the inner bearing race is shimmed and sometimes the outer. Now if that shim works in that location by spacing the inner race of a bearing held on the other side by that circlip, the ID looks a little too large. And if they are spacing the outer bearing race then the OD looks small. Makes me wonder if that particular shim goes with a bearing at that axle location at all.
rScotty

The shims measure 40mm ID x 50mm OD. The axle around that area measured 39.9mm. They are sandwiched between a spacer (42x48) and the gear.

I think there was too much space and the one shim traveled a lot and found a favorite side.

 

[Djames55]

The shims measure 40mm ID x 50mm OD. The axle around that area measured 39.9mm. They are sandwiched between a spacer (42x48) and the gear.

I think there was too much space and the one shim traveled a lot and found a favorite side.

Remember you said YOU called Hoye and THEY said its 42mm ID, 48mm OD. That is what I would go by... 42mm x 48mm size would fit with the spacer...

 

[rScotty]

The shims measure 40mm ID x 50mm OD. The axle around that area measured 39.9mm. They are sandwiched between a spacer (42x48) and the gear.

I think there was too much space and the one shim traveled a lot and found a favorite side.

OK, I'm with you now. I think from your photo that you are working on the wheel spindle.

Some more on shop manual and parts books: I got to looking at my books, and like you I have the OEM green Yanmar 240D parts book. I also have what sounds like the same I&T Shop manual covering the 240D plus other models. In addition, I have other shop manuals for other model Yanmars....but nothing else specifically for the 240D.

The original green Yanmar parts manual is good; I've rarely ever found those Yanmar parts books to be in error - although sometimes (rarely) Yanmar sent out addendums & errata to be added to some pages. The problem with the Yanmar parts books is that they specify dimensions on some parts but not others. They are pretty good on some collars, but not so much on spacers and bushings. The good thing is that when they call out dimensions I've found them to be accurate. And they are very good with bearings and bolt sizes.
Yanmar's OEM shop manuals are equally good and have more dimensions, but I don't have one for the 240D. And the OEM shop manuals are very model specific. They will cover variations within a model but for example the YM240 shop manual will not normally have the 4wd axle chapter. For that info, you have to have the YM240D shop manual.

As to the I&T manuals, they have good illustrations and a decent write up, but as you have probably already figured out they don't do a very good job in their index and lists that refer back to the drawings. Index numbers point to the wrong part, or no part, and their dimensions may be wrong, too. At every step, take the I&T manuals with a grain of salt. Admirable effort, but they tried to do too much.

If you can, get an OEM 240D shop manual. It has to cover the "D" model for 4wd info. I'll look around too.


Uh-Oh...BTW, my apologies about my rant about bearing prices.... I didn't realize just how much heavier the 240D axle is than the 195D front axle. The bearings are NOT $12.00 bearings - the 240D uses one each of the #6008 and 6211 in the spindle area - which are more on the order of $36.00 each. Here's a link to bearing dimensions and specs that is informative and might help calculating shim size, too.
McMaster-Carr

If you are working on the spindle like I think you are, how are you coming on the oil seal? From the drawing it looks like Yanmar cleverly put a wear sleeve (collar) between the ID of the oil seal and the spindle stub axle. Of course doing that creates another leak path, which they addressed with a hidden O ring inside the wear sleeve and what looks to be a groove to hold it in the spindle stub axle. Hmm....well, they got that half right. A single O ring would stop but also needs something to keep the wear sleeve from cocking relative to the axle shaft. They could use either another O ring, or maybe very careful sleeve dimensions so that it gets sandwiched and stays parallel with the axle because of that. If yours weeps a little when you are done we can put some more thought into improving the oil sealing on the inside ID of that wear collar.

Keep notes of the dimensions of sleeves, collars, bearings and such - I bet we will need them before done. Plus I'd like to put notes in my parts manual.
luck,
rScotty

 

[winston1]

BEARING _: Yanmar Tractor Parts

BEARING _: Yanmar Tractor Parts

 

[rScotty]

BEARING _: Yanmar Tractor Parts

BEARING _: Yanmar Tractor Parts

Yep, much less expensive than the bearings I use. Which brings up the interesting question of "how does one know quality?" I sure don't know how to tell. Probably most every industrialized country in the world makes its own standard dimension ball bearings and most of them export them as well.

A few decades ago you "got what you paid for" and therefore could tell something about bearing quality by the price. But is that still a valid way to tell quality? Again, I don't know.
What I do with bearings is buy brands that I know. Luckily, ball bearing companies are not shy about name-branding their bearings, and the bearing part numbers are standard and universal. Any #6008 ball bearing made in one country is going to be dimensionally the same ID, OD, & thickness as any other #6008 made anywhere in the world. And for low RPM work most ball beaings should be fine..... I hope....
rScotty