YM240D Front axle

Trkrd · Dec 21, 2009

Been almost a week since I briught my new (old) Yannie home. Thought I had everything up to snuff and realized I had not checked the front axle fluid yet. Nothing in there! Desperately needed to use it today to collect firewood so filled it (with all the oil I had) to about 1/2" below the plug. Should it be filled to the top? And I can't figure where the old oil went. Used it in 4WD for a couple hours today up and down the mountain with loads of firewood and never saw a drop leak out. After being parked in the barn for 4 hours after being done couldn't spot any leaks. Just another thing that irks me about the dealer. As I said in an earlier post, They washed it and put a for sale sign on it. Any reputable dealer would at least check the fluids before selling. BUYER BEWARE! No regrets though, with a little TLC and regular maintenance this should be the last tractor I ever need. Very impressed with it so far.

normde2001 · Dec 21, 2009

Checking fluids BEFORE purchase is the buyers job. It can take several hours, (days), for the oil to bleed down into the knuckles, speeded up if you open the vent screws. Not crucial, but you should end up with oil just covering the axle. Hope it was not run enough without oil to cause damage.

Dick_Jermyn · Dec 21, 2009

What weight oil did you put in there? I believe that all the front wheel drive tractors take EP80-90 gear oil. Someone correct me if I am wrong. If you put lighter weight oil in, run it a few hours to flush all the axle assembly, then drain while hot to remove any impurities in the oil. Does you fill hole cap have a small dip stick on it? If so, it should be marked to where you can fill to the correct level. Let us know what's going on.

Dick

Trkrd · Dec 21, 2009

I used 90 weight gear oil, and no dipstick on the cap. It is just above the axle now. Couldn't check it at the dealers place cause I didn't bother bringing tools with me. Figured they would do the basics like fill all fluids.

dgarrett · Dec 22, 2009

Jared at Gorilla tractors told me some of the Yanmars that come from Nippon have grease packed into the knuckles because the farmers didn't want oil dripping into there rice fields. Jared buys used Yanmars as they arrive off the boat from Japan and that is where is has run into this before.

MJPetersen · Dec 22, 2009

Some even here on the forum have recommended a "flow-able grease." I understand that it is quite good and does not escape as gear oil might. When I bought mine it had grease in the front asle, but even the grease was "leaking" out the top of the knuckle. On tear down I discovered that who ever reassembled mine in VN put the seals in backwards on the top of the knuckle. When I rebuilt the knuckles I put in gear oil. I have had some come out the vent for the axle, but that is all.

My FIL packs boxes with grease if they start leaking. He has several that have gone for years with grease in them. However, I recommend using the gear oil and just sealing the axle or boxes so that they hold the oil.

Mike

normde2001 · Dec 22, 2009

dgarrett said:
Jared at Gorilla tractors told me some of the Yanmars that come from Nippon have grease packed into the knuckles because the farmers didn't want oil dripping into there rice fields. Jared buys used Yanmars as they arrive off the boat from Japan and that is where is has run into this before.

Interesting, I had not heard/read that before and always assumed the grease was added because of leaking seals. I doubt that grease can spread enough to do an adequate job of lubing, and if I had a FWD with leaking seals I would try Lucas Power Steering Sealant in it. It's about the consistancy of 90wt and I have been using it successfuly in my rotary cutter gearbox for about 5 years now because of a leaky output seal.

MJPetersen · Dec 22, 2009

This thread is an interesting read on the topic.

Mike

normde2001 · Dec 22, 2009

As long as it is said to take for 90wt to seep down into the lower knuckles, I doubt that anything much thicker would ever get there.

MJPetersen · Dec 22, 2009

normde2001 said:
As long as it is said to take for 90wt to seep down into the lower knuckles, I doubt that anything much thicker would ever get there.

I do not know Norm, it was coming out the TOP of my knuckles. It seems to move and flow pretty well. I agree that it would be much better if the grease were put in there when it was torn down, but then it would not be necessary--however, in this case, there already is 90w in it so adding the flowable grease would just thicken the mixture and I am sure that it would flow to where it is needed.

Mike

Trkrd · Dec 23, 2009

Another thing I just noticed about the front axle is that when parked in the barn and I turn the wheel a bit in either direction the axle slides forward and back just a slight bit on the pivot. Is this something to be concerned about?

Trkrd · Jan 9, 2010

Lucas hub oil solved the leakage problem, barely damp in the knuckle area and staying full. Added one quart of lucas hub oil to the existing gear oil (that was low at the time) Still wondering about the front axle play. Moves maybe 1/4" forward and back when I move the steering wheel back and forth at a standstill. Is this normal? or should I address this as to not cause binding on the driveshaft.

normde2001 · Jan 9, 2010

I doubt that anyone but you knows exactly where you are saying the movement is, so you are probably going to have to do your own troubleshooting.

California · Jan 9, 2010

normde2001 said:
Trkrd said:

Another thing I just noticed about the front axle is that when parked in the barn and I turn the wheel a bit in either direction the axle slides forward and back just a slight bit on the pivot. Is this something to be concerned about?

Click to expand...

I doubt that anyone but you knows exactly where you are saying the movement is, so you are probably going to have to do your own troubleshooting.

Norm, Trkrd, my 'new' YM186d has the same slop. This diagram is for a different tractor, but look at item #15, Spacer. I think my tractor is missing spacers on the axle pivot pin that should total about 1/4".

winston1 · Jan 9, 2010

I have replaced both knuckle seals on my YM2002D at different intervals. Both times when filling it was neccesary to run awhile, add a little, run awhile and add a little. Don't know if air pockets keep the 90 weight from filling or what. Just know without running and rechecking you can end up low.

Buppie · Jan 9, 2010

California said:
Norm, Trkrd, my 'new' YM186d has the same slop. This diagram is for a different tractor, but look at item #15, Spacer. I think my tractor is missing spacers on the axle pivot pivot pin that should total about 1/4".

Tractor didn't come with the shims. Order, if you can find them, or make your own.

California · Jan 9, 2010

Buppie said:
Tractor didn't come with the shims. Order, if you can find them, or make your own.

That front-to-back slack can't be normal. It must put a lot of unnecessary wear on the front driveshaft spline.

1danny · Jan 9, 2010

Trkrd said:
Lucas hub oil solved the leakage problem, barely damp in the knuckle area and staying full. Added one quart of lucas hub oil to the existing gear oil (that was low at the time) Still wondering about the front axle play. Moves maybe 1/4" forward and back when I move the steering wheel back and forth at a standstill. Is this normal? or should I address this as to not cause binding on the driveshaft.

Your YM240D has both a spacer and shims.
Danny

Buppie · Jan 10, 2010

California said:
That front-to-back slack can't be normal. It must put a lot of unnecessary wear on the front driveshaft spline.

Page 54 of the 186D (original) Operation Manual ; " If there is so much play in the front axle center pin, the front wheels vibrate (meaning in 4WD) and the vibrations are transmitted to the steering wheel. "
" If end play exceeds .020 adjust it to .004 . "

Pin, bushing and shims could all be easily fabricated if you can't buy them.