YM2700 stalls under load

Krispy · May 12, 2005

My tractor runs just great for about 20 minutes, pulling a five foot bush hog. Then it stalls under a load. When I try to restart it, it won't turn over. After two minutes it will crank and start again but it still won't take a load, it will quit again.
It doesn't seem to be overheating, the gauge reads 80 and their is not noticeable sign of heat.
Any one have any good advice?
Jim

normde2001 · May 12, 2005

"When I try to restart it, it won't turn over."

Does that mean it literally won't turn over as with bad battery or starter, or it just won't start? Check air filter, fuel filter/supply, and muffler.

Tractors4u · May 12, 2005

Maybe the fuel cap is not venting and your fuel system is pulling a vacumm.

Krispy · May 13, 2005

The engine won't crank at all. Turn the key and it just clicks. After two minutes it turns ove ok and starts.

Krispy · May 13, 2005

The fuel cap is very loose, doesn't fit tightly at all. What should it be like? Any test for that?

normde2001 · May 13, 2005

Either your engine is seizing up or you have multiple problems, battery/starter/wiring, and stalling, (see previous post). I suspect you are going to need some onsite troubleshooting assistance.

Normmm · May 13, 2005

what does the oil look like and is it up to the full mark on the dipstick. Has the oil filter been changed.

Jagmandave · May 13, 2005

It almost sounds like it's overheating and seizing up, then when it cools a bit, it'll turn over again. Either that or it's out of oil or other lubrication problems.............

Krispy · May 13, 2005

I was having this problem and then changed the oil and still have the problem. The oil had been full and is again full with 6 quarts. This time, I did not replace the oil filter although I did a few hours ago.
The gauge never did read hot while running. When I did the oil, I also added water, a good amount, and cleaned a bunch of grass off the screen in front of the radiator.
Now, when it stalls, the temp gauge is still about 80 although it then rises to the top after it shuts down, I assume this is heat creap. The engine is not hot, I can put my hand on the radiator.

kenmac · May 13, 2005

I agree with Jagmandave Sounds like poor coolant circulation. Is your gauge correct ?Does it stop without anything connected rotary cutter' box blade,etc;

bruce1966us · May 13, 2005

Is this a reconditioned tractor?

Thanks,
Bruce

Krispy · May 14, 2005

I have to admit it might have been overheated. The gauge never went above 80 and there were no signs of being hot, but I did have to add a lot of coolent to the radiator.

Once it would restart, it would run fine. With the bush hog off I could run around the pasture at speed with no problem. As soon as I'd engage the bush hog, the engine would quit.

So, if I did overheat it and it will run but not with a load, what did I do bad to the engine that I have to fix?

And, Bruce, yes it is a reconditioned grey market tractor.

kenmac · May 14, 2005

Where did all the water go ? Cracked head, block,. Check oil. is there water in oil? oil milky looking? If not, fill with coolant & give it a try, just keep an eye on the coolant. You have an idea of how long you can run the tractor before it quits.Good luck . This is just what I would try, maybe someone else has an idea.

bruce1966us · May 14, 2005

I have encountered the ring clearance being to close on the reconditioned and when the engine would heat up it would seize until it cooled down. As a matter of fact the situations were exactly as you decribe your problem.

Thanks,
Bruce

DannyV · May 15, 2005

Hey let me give you my two cents on what I think. I have a YM2200 that was ran with low coolant but guage said it wasnt overheating. I continued to use it and it lost power and wouldnt start. When it did start it wouldnt have very much power with the brush hog or underload. Come to fine out I had cracked the head. It would just run off of one cylinder do to low or no water/coolant in the radiator cracking the other cylinder. If it happends to be a cracked head take it to a atuomotive engine rebuilder and have them repair it. Thats what I did and tractor runs great. Hopefully you dont have that problem but if all else fails check the head.

normde2001 · May 15, 2005

If you hope to solve this problem, you need to step back, take a deep breath, and do some logical troubleshooting. For starters, there is no excuse for running with low/no coolant. If you don't have a coolant recovery bottle, I would get one, and keep an eye on it. I would get a breaker bar and a socket that fits the nut on the front of your crankshaft. Start it up and let it run. if it quits, immediately try to turn the engine over with the breaker bar, clockwise, from the front. You might try this first with a cold engine to see how tight it is normally. If it is seized, you will know what you are dealing with.

Krispy · May 15, 2005

Good news and very bad news.
I found that the lower radiator hose had sliped back so the clamp was just tightened on rubber, water squited out of that. I fixed that problem, got a well charged battery, checked the oil and it started just fine. I used it for more than two hours and mowed a bunch of pasture. Everything was happy. I had finished, I was heading back for the barn. It was still under light load as the bush hog was turning but I was on already moved pasture. A big cloud of black smoke and BAM! Hopping off I found the starter motor on the ground and a big hole in the side of the engine where a rod came through. One dead Yanmar. Anyone need any parts?

Jagmandave · May 15, 2005

Ouch! Well, I guess you found out what happens when you overstress an engine, in this case the overheating led to the other parts failures. Can you find a used engine from one of the tractor sales places here? Seems like there should be plenty of engines around. Seems a shame to scrap the tractor for an engine (unless you just want a new tractor!) Sorry for your misfortune.........

normde2001 · May 15, 2005

Boy, sorry to hear that...unfortunately, that's a pretty rare model and if a used engine were available, would probably be in the $2,000 range. I would be looking to sell it to a Yanmar dealer for parts. Any warranty?

mark777 · May 15, 2005

Krispy,

How long have you had this tractor? Maybe a little history about the tractor and the purchase might help, also a general location in your profile may help you find someone with just the right block, engine or something that may swap.

I have been following along and am wondering if the tractor was recently purchased and do you have any recourse? Having asked that, if one of my tractors was accidently (or intentionally) overheated one has little to argue with.

I do hope you can find a suitable replacement, either engine or tractor....

Good luck and regards, Mark