Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design

   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design
  • Thread Starter
#11  
It does matter to me on equipment, if it's made in China quality isn't near as good as stuff made in America or Sweden just for a couple of examples. What good would a cutter be if the frame is heavy duty but the gearbox is made out of a poor casting? The gearbox takes a beating as much as the tail wheel does.

I can assure you it is not going to made in China. I know that much :) First i thought you said this because of the nationalism or something else. We will be sure about quality.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #12  
Guide wheel for what exactly ? I mean why do you need quide wheel ?

Not to be snarky, but I will anyway - if you are designing a rotary cutter, and you have to ask what a guide wheel is - definitely do MUCH more research before you call your work done. ;)
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #13  
Improvements I'd like on my 6 ft Woods Brushbull:

1) a more streamlined front corner that is less likely to skin a tree's base when I get too close.

2) a proper thrust bearing on the tail wheel pivot, and/or more castor angle.

3) square back cutters are good for backing over weeds and brush without pushing them off to the side, uncut, but you can't back up close to something.

Roundbacks are just the opposite- closer trimming in reverse but taller weeds near the sides get pushed away.

Make the back round but with some nubs on the radius to hold the weeds in place while backing over them. (BrushComb tm)
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #14  
Make chain guards standard equipment.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #15  
Make the skid plates on the front replaceable. I have had to replace those on my brother in laws mower a couple of times because he lets the front drag in the dirt. A bolt on replacement would be easy to do rather than having to torch or grind off the old ones and weld on new ones.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #16  
1. Tool free height adjustment of the tail wheel.
2. Enough angle on the tail wheel so it doesn't wobble at higher speeds.
3. replaceable skid wear plates and optional front wheels
4. A PTO coupler with a locking collar, so you can hold it in the open position as you slide it onto the PTO shaft (I had an older Rhino that had this type)
5. Chain or fabric debris skirts.
6. Generous top link pivot for uneven terrain.
7. Smooth underside to facilitate cleaning and minimize debris buildup and corrosion.
8. accessibility to all grease zerks ( I have a Landpride, the zerk on the PTO shaft near the gearbox end is a PITA to get to)
9. If a shear pin style, make a carrier to keep spare shear pins.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #17  
I second the motion to install bearings on the tail wheel swivel. Just sticking a 1.5" pipe thru a 2" pipe and putting a grease zerk doesn't make for a lasting joint. They wear out really fast regardless of how much grease you put in it.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #18  
Wouldn't it be nice to have a drain on the gear box so the oil could be changed out easily.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design #19  
Quick hitch compatible. Standard CAT 1 with several top pin holes available.
 
   / Your Advices for New Rotary Cutter Design
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Improvements I'd like on my 6 ft Woods Brushbull:

1) a more streamlined front corner that is less likely to skin a tree's base when I get too close.

2) a proper thrust bearing on the tail wheel pivot, and/or more castor angle.

3) square back cutters are good for backing over weeds and brush without pushing them off to the side, uncut, but you can't back up close to something.

Roundbacks are just the opposite- closer trimming in reverse but taller weeds near the sides get pushed away.

Make the back round but with some nubs on the radius to hold the weeds in place while backing over them. (BrushComb tm)

Thank you for your sharing. I will consider these.
 
 

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