z-force 60 riding mower

[veno]

I went back by tonight... under the seat there was a date of manufacture sticker 03/06

I asked the salesman what the year was again before looking at the date.. I informed him I had checked on here how to determine the date...

he still stuck by it was a 2008 and perhaps the unit was mislabeled or was a late 06.. meaning it was a 07 unit....

I hate liars... offered 3500.00.... 4100.00 was the counter offer.. told him I was not willing to pay that for a almost 5 year old machine....

so back to the drawing board....:laughing:

 

[OldMachinist]

So he's saying that Cub Cadet mis-labeled the unit to make it older. I bet if you had looked at the build date on the engine it would have been even older because the engines are built several months before they are installed. You where right to walk away at $4100 unless they were going to give you a 3 year warranty.

 

[JTKub]

Yep, that's a fact. The Kohler on my Z-Force is an early 2009, while the machine was built in April 2010. They must have quite the stockpile of engines on hand.

Joel

 

[Greyhawk]

I own a Z-Force 60, bought it in 2006, it is exactly isentical to the picture.
The only mistake was the salesperson.

I have a question, After owning and using my CC for over 5 yrs the rt rear transaxle is now leaking oil. Is there an easy fix for this or do I need to tear apart the transaxle. A new on costs around $1360 from parts tree.

BTW great information here. I have already downloaded several parts and IPB files.

Thanks

 

[JTKub]

Where is it leaking oil from? It should be repairable as opposed to having to replace it.

Joel

 

[Greyhawk]

Tks for replying
I guess i should have put in more information.
It is leaking from the axle shaft.
From other posts I have been able to get the IPB on the zt-2800 transaxle and it is the lip seal I need to replace.
I live in a rural area but we do have a local buisness the sells cub cadets.
I was able to order the seal. $20 per.
So I ordered 2 and next week I will be removing the HUB and retaining ring,
I should then be able to replace the lip seal.
I am glad I found this forum, It has been of great help already.

 

[JTKub]

I'd get yourself something like this so you don't scratch the shaft: Amazon.com: Lisle 58430 Shaft Type Seal Puller: Automotive

 

[Greyhawk]

Thanks for that info, will look into it

 

[Greyhawk]

Well, still having difficulties in replacing the shaft seal. I am having a problem removing the wheel hub from the shaft. I have broken my puller trying to get it off. Also tried a 12 ton hydraulic press and still no results.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tks

 

[bigwally]

I once had a ridiculous time removing a dinged drive pulley off the crankshaft of my Cub mower that was welded on with rust and corrosion. It's a little different from your deal since I had to make a backing plate for the pulley to get a good pull with my three-jaw puller, but the idea is the same.

Get the shaft into a vertical orientation and spray PB Blaster at the top of where the hub meets the shaft so it can penetrate, and then put a puller on the thing with lots of tension. For me it took three days of constant tension on the puller, heat from a paint stripping heat gun, PB Blaster, and going out two or three times a day to repeat the spraying, heating, and hitting the puller shaft with a ball peen hammer. On the third day I heard a loud crack and all was good in my world again.

Edit: If I'd had a torch instead of the heat gun I might have gotten it off quicker.

Not a bad idea to put it back on with some anti-seize compound or grease, just in case there's a next time. I sure wish Cub Cadet had done that.