Z-Trac Blades Disengage

[MooreSites]

Hey, everyone, I sure hope someone has the solution to this. I have a Z-Track 830A with absolutely zero issues up to this point. However, I started mowing today and my blades would engage briefly (half second), then shut down. The status light with the wrench icon around my hour meter blinked 3 times. I repeated the process and got the same result. I checked my belts and all seems to be in order.

Now, last summer, I had some issues with my PTO engage switch (yellow pull) "playing out" after a long mowing session - especially when on rough terrain.

I'm wondering if replacing that PTO switch would be my solution? I'm going to attempt that tomorrow, unless I hear differently. Thanks for any help!

 

[RG1]

Check the wire running to the PTO and make sure it is making good contact at the PTO, then if that doesn't do it, I'd swap out that switch like you were going to do.

 

[MooreSites]

Check the wire running to the PTO and make sure it is making good contact at the PTO, then if that doesn't do it, I'd swap out that switch like you were going to do.

Thanks for the info! Actually, since it's a $16 part and I had trouble with it giving way last summer, I think I'll replace it. Will try to post here for my findings. Thanks again!

 

[MooreSites]

That was it! New PTO switch and all was well. Now for a new question . . . I now accidentally jumped off the mower with backward connections like an idiot. My hours screen is dead, so that's a fuse, right? Can't find it if so!

 

[RG1]

Hopefully, this will help.
http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/MP64/MP64001________UN25OCT07.gif

John Deere - Parts Catalog

 

[RG1]

Or this-

http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/MP63/MP63994________UN03DEC07.gif

John Deere - Parts Catalog

 

[MooreSites]

Once again, you saved the day. I was looking in the total wrong direction. FYI, for future readers, my fuse was located at the terminal end of a cord on the left side of engine. Very easy to get to after popping cap off. Thanks again, RG1.

 

[RG1]

Happy to help. Glad you found it alright and have it fixed.

 

[MooreSites]

Hey, I'm not sure you're still in the monitoring mode for this thread, but I thought I'd check (since you rocked the last answers so well!). That las problem reared it's head throughout the summer with the jump start issue . . . the starter would turn over, but only in clicks (with each turn of the key, I'd get a turnover- eventually resulting in the engine starting). I can never hold and keep a constant starting rotation until iginition. So, I'm thinking it's the starter mechanism . . . I found part TCA15075 and saw the following on Amazon that people reviewed favorably . . . should I stick with the JD part though . . .and, do you think this is the problem? Thanks - Happy New Year, every one!

Amazon.com : Stens 430-128 Starter Switch Replaces John Deere TCA15075 Great Dane TCA15075 John Deere AM101561 Great Dane AM101561 : Lawn Mower Key Switches : Patio, Lawn & Garden

 

[RG1]

Hey, I'm not sure you're still in the monitoring mode for this thread, but I thought I'd check (since you rocked the last answers so well!). That las problem reared it's head throughout the summer with the jump start issue . . . the starter would turn over, but only in clicks (with each turn of the key, I'd get a turnover- eventually resulting in the engine starting). I can never hold and keep a constant starting rotation until iginition. So, I'm thinking it's the starter mechanism . . . I found part TCA15075 and saw the following on Amazon that people reviewed favorably . . . should I stick with the JD part though . . .and, do you think this is the problem? Thanks - Happy New Year, every one!

Amazon.com : Stens 430-128 Starter Switch Replaces John Deere TCA15075 Great Dane TCA15075 John Deere AM101561 Great Dane AM101561 : Lawn Mower Key Switches : Patio, Lawn & Garden

That sounds like a bad battery. Even new ones can be faulty if they are not charged properly at first. I'd take it in to a dealer or O'Reilly's etc and have it checked. I went through that about a year ago on one of my JD's. Even though I knew it seemed like the battery, I was still thinking it might be something else because the battery wasn't that old. replaced it and no more problem.

If the battery checks out, checking the starter solenoid and then the starter itself would be my next steps in that order. Check them for good and clean connections. Check the battery end of the cables and make sure they are clean inside the connectors regardless of how clean they may look on the outside. You could have just enough corrosion inside them to keep your battery from being charged while running.

 

[MooreSites]

Wow! Lightning response (thanks!) . . . .will do . .. actually, I guess jumping it off (correctly this time, lol) would tell the tale if the starter turns over correctly, right?

 

[RG1]

It should.

BTW- You just happened to catch me sitting here at the computer. I haven't been logged onto this forum for quite some time, but I still get e-mail notices.

 

[MooreSites]

Ha! Well, thanks a million . . . have a great 2015.

 

[RG1]

You can check the starter by jumping it, and you can also check both the starter and the battery by removing the battery cables from the battery on the Z, then use jumper cables from your Z battery cables to your vehicle and see if it starts right up and if the starter rolls correctly. Let me know what you find.


Have a safe and Happy New year and a great 2015.

 

[MooreSites]

Hey, RG1, I'm hoping you're still monitoring. Here's what I have found with that method of testing you mentioned (and more new stuff today).

I got my mower ready for this season and, of course, the battery was dead. I jumped it off as usual from my vehicle (was in a hurry) and got the one-click turn that eventually started the mower (ran like a champ after). After mowing, it did the same delayed shut off after turning off key (about 5 seconds of idle, then shut off).

I remembered your thread the next time and disconnected the battery, connected jumpers to corresponding cables directly and tried to start it up. This was weird. The starter gave me a "rat-tat-tat" click sound. Three consecutive clicks, but no turn. I didn't want to try that so many times, so I connected the battery again and jump with the same results as the first part of this post.

That brings me to today . . . I started with the usual method, but stopped mowing near the house to clean the deck out (grass, etc). It wouldn't start back at all with a jump.

I do still get the 3-4 error code (electrical) and checked all connections to the starter, ignition, etc. and all looked in order. Double checked fuse too - all good. I would get occasional jolts when turning key, but no turn over from starter.

So, there you go. I'm looking forward to your post (really digging this forum and telling everyone I know!). Thanks for any insight you can give, as always.


3-4 error code via JD Manual:

Starter Output Short to Battery

This code indicates that there is a short in the starter circuit to the battery.

• Inspect electrical harness for pinched, chafed, or frayed wires.

 

[RG1]

Man, I haven't been here since Dec and the last time I replied to ya LOL.
The delayed shutdown is normal and proper. There is a fuel solenoid shutoff on your machine, and that is how they all operate with the solenoid.

Sounds like either a shorted or broken wire coming from your starter, or possibly a very bad/corroded connection at the starter.

 

[MooreSites]

Hey, well, thanks!

I'll give a thorough look through again Monday. Thanks again. I'll let you know (and others who might stumble here) if/when I find something.

 

[RG1]

I know a few guys who have had ignition switch for the key go bad and start causing them issues too. Maybe check that as well.

 

[MooreSites]

Alright, more details and mysteries for you, if you're game. I checked every connection I can find (fuses, wire endings, etc) and all are in tip top shape as far as I can tell. Turning key to ignition still gives a small jolt to starter every once in a while (even when not being jumped off) . . . I stumbled onto the following (image below). Notice the "tear" in above the digital readout. Now, I know for a fact that this showed up AFTER my numb headed criss cross jump start that started this mess. I'm wondering if the issue is with this part? Wanted to get your take on that.

 

[MooreSites]

I'm going to keep positing my findings on this thread for future users. I found out something interesting. The main bolt on the side near seat that secures my control panel to my mower frame was missing (top screws are intact). I had a theory and tried inserting a screw driver into the threads to make a connection between the frame that holds the bolt and the metal control cover - viola . . . . Error light quit and it started. I have reordered the bolt to take care of that and will post if it is a solution or not.