MT160D

[skylarkguy]

I agree that you probably want a rotary cutter rather than a finish mower.

Some of the Satoh were ccw and the box to convert it to CW is rare and pricey. Wouldn't hurt to check which way yours turns.

 

[Capricious]

I agree that you probably want a rotary cutter rather than a finish mower.

Some of the Satoh were ccw and the box to convert it to CW is rare and pricey. Wouldn't hurt to check which way yours turns.

Mine is standard (clockwise) rotation. That was one reason why I was avoiding the B6000's, in addition to them being too small for a 4 foot cutter.

But I was not aware that the Yanmar 135's and 155's were also reverse rotation, as they apparently are according to the tag on this mower.

 

[oliver28472]

It has a right side discharge just like my Woods RM 48 which should mean a standard rotation. You should call the seller and ask if it has a six spline yoke. The price sounds OK. I paid $240.00 for mine several years ago. It is a decent finish mower but it will struggle cutting waist high stuff. On the outside chance the mower's rotation is wrong, there is not an easy fix. I had one of the backwards ones also and had to change the blades as well as all three spindles because turning it backwards from what it was supposed to be will cause the blade bolts to back out. I've been through this. I would recommend a bush hog for waist high stuff. In the meanwhile would it be possible to hire a neighbor to bush hog it for you?

 

[oliver28472]

I would also add that if you do buy the RM 48 Woods, go ahead and buy an extra belt. It is a B-124 everywhere. Make sure there is a good diagram decal on the deck showing how to replace the belt. I've been running them for years and still have to rely on the decal to see which pulley to start with. It has a drive pulley, three spindle pulleys, an idler pulley and a tightener pulley. It is a booger to replace. When I used it to mow full time, I had to replace the belt at least once a year.

 

[284 International]

But I was not aware that the Yanmar 135's and 155's were also reverse rotation, as they apparently are according to the tag on this mower.

The Yanmar 135 and 155 each are standard clockwise rotation PTO. According to the service manual they have 540 and 770 PTO rotation, clockwise when viewed from the rear.

 

[Capricious]

The Yanmar 135 and 155 each are standard clockwise rotation PTO. According to the service manual they have 540 and 770 PTO rotation, clockwise when viewed from the rear.

I saw one 135 and a couple of 155's advertised for sale but did not seriously look into them (the 2WD 135 seeming too small, while the 155's were too far from home) so I never really looked into the PTO issue.

 

[Capricious]

It has a right side discharge just like my Woods RM 48 which should mean a standard rotation. You should call the seller and ask if it has a six spline yoke. The price sounds OK. I paid $240.00 for mine several years ago. It is a decent finish mower but it will struggle cutting waist high stuff. On the outside chance the mower's rotation is wrong, there is not an easy fix. I had one of the backwards ones also and had to change the blades as well as all three spindles because turning it backwards from what it was supposed to be will cause the blade bolts to back out. I've been through this. I would recommend a bush hog for waist high stuff. In the meanwhile would it be possible to hire a neighbor to bush hog it for you?

Last comment first: i have already made a couple of attempts to get locals to bush hog the place. Too long to relate here but neither experience worked out well. That is when I started dealing with it myself.

The Sears mower deck will handle the job, as long as I cut it at least (3) times a year. Due to family issues and weather, however, i have not been out there since last October, so at this point it is beyond what the Sears can handle. The walk-behind field and brush mower could handle it, but cutting 6+ acres with a 24" cut machine takes a loooonnnngg time. I have done it.

So, I need a machine that will let me cut it twice or even just once a year. Rotary cutter it is.

Oh, about V belts: I always carry a full set of replacement belts for the Sears and for the walk-behind, and on a couple of occasions have had to replace a belt in the field. One memorable day mowing wih the Sears, I had the deck off (3) times making repairs: (2) times to re-install belts that had "popped" off, and once to beat out the deck with a sledge hammer after hitting a stump and bending the deck to the point where the blades were hitting it. Obviously, I was working it a lot harder than i should have been. A trbute to old Roper products that the thing still runs and cuts.

 

[techwrtr2]

Having the stickers mentioning a Beaver isn't an indication that the deck runs CCW. The RM42 I have has the same stickers and it runs normal rotation.

 

[Capricious]

After letting the hyd. filter bolt soak with penetrating oil a few days, I tried again last night to remove it, but succeded only in rounding-off the head. I don't think there is room to get a drill in there unless i can find a drill bit at least 18 inches long. Would also need a center punch about 18 inches long to center punch the bolt before drilling.

While sitting on the ground next to the thing, and thinking about the next move, I found myelf looking at the fuel filter, or rather, where the fuel filter should be. There is no bowl and no element, and the remains of the filter housing have been bypassed with a piece of steel brake line tubing. So the previous owner was running the thing with no filter. i suppose an inline filter would work, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to bleed the air. I have installed many inline filters on small gasoline engines, usually clear plastic filters so that i could see what was going on, and it seems to me they always have a bubble in them. Plus, the shut-off valve is incorporated into the factory filter housing, so I would need to rig up some sort of shut-off valve.

Sent an email to Valley Power to see if the bowls are available.

On a happier note: I am always picking up bits of steel scrap in case they will be of use in future projects. One bit i picked up is a 3 foot long piece of I-beam with 5 inch flanges and a 12 inch web. This will be drilled and then bolted to the front of the tractor, web horizontal, for a front bumper and also for mounting weights to.

 

[oliver28472]

Now I'm going to have to go look at one of mine but I think you can take the right rear tire off to gain access to that bolt. One possible solution is to weld a larger nut to the head of the bolt. The heat from the weld will also help free the bolt. A buddy of mine over in Fulton could get that thing out for sure.