1026R or 2520 having a tough time

[barry1me]

Make sure you get dealer prices for any of these tractors -- the Kubota B2920 should end up being quite a bit less than the Deere 2520. The best deal I got on the 1026 was $14600 for the tractor with front loader. The B2620 with front loader was only $100 more, at $14700, and the B2920 with front loader was $15400. If I remember right the Deere 2520 with front loader was around $18000 or so.

The B3200 does vibrate quite a bit more, since it's a 4-cylinder. They are never as smoothe as the 3-cylinders in my experience.

The dealer told me $15,400 for the the 1026r with FEL, balast box, and the 54mmm with auto connect. The Kubota dealer told me today that the B2920 with FEL, and MMM would be around $19,000. The John Deere dealer told me 2520 with FEL, 60" MMM, balast box would be $20,400

 

[cjdavis618]

The dealer told me $15,400 for the the 1026r with FEL, balast box, and the 54mmm with auto connect. The Kubota dealer told me today that the B2920 with FEL, and MMM would be around $19,000. The John Deere dealer told me 2520 with FEL, 60" MMM, balast box would be $20,400

As for the tiller pto length, that would depend on the tiller. I have a 5' tiller that I use on my hinomoto Best E15 which is rated at 15hp PTO, 18 on the engine. The 1026R is 18 at pto and 26.6 on the engine. So HP wise, you are fine. However, my tiller is a 2 point mount and will not fit on my 1026R, but I have read on other forums about 5' tillers on the 1026R. The shaft should be adjustable length.

On your pricing, I got my 1026R with H120 loader, 60D 60" deck with autoconnect and independant lift kit, plus the 260 backhoe w/12" bucket for 20,700 without tax.

If you can find a Drive Green event, go to it and you will get a $500 off coupon.

Pertaining to the deck, yes the deck will "Autoconnect", but if you have the independant lift, you have to swap hydraulic lines on order to use the loader joystick to lift and lower the deck. The Manual Rockshaft lift version uses the 3pt lift lever beside the seat. The Autoconnect PTO for the MMM is also another option so you don't have to manually connect the driveline under the tractor. The Deck will latch on with all versions to the lift systems, but the autoconnect pto is an addon that allows the deck to connect to the tractor and engage pto connection just by driving onto the deck. That was included with my setup.

 

[s219]

The dealer told me $15,400 for the the 1026r with FEL, balast box, and the 54mmm with auto connect. The Kubota dealer told me today that the B2920 with FEL, and MMM would be around $19,000. The John Deere dealer told me 2520 with FEL, 60" MMM, balast box would be $20,400

That's a real good price on the 1026. On the other two, you can come down at least $1500-2000 or so (maybe they expect to haggle).

 

[s219]

loader will be used for picking up mulch, spreading top soil.....I have about 200 pine trees on my property and there are several dead ones that need cut down. I will put the wood in the bucket to move to burn pile with the loader use.

I have 4 acres of woods, 3 are pine and 1 is hardwood, and ended up getting a Wallenstein wood chipper to take care of any limbs/tops/etc under 4". It's a huge capability to have if you do a lot of tree work or cleanup now and then. If you think that is ever a possibility, go with a tractor with enough PTO horsepower for things like that. I think the 1026 would be marginal to run a decent size chipper.

 

[XSKIER]

I went through this same predicament seven months ago. You can find some very nice comments and encouragement here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=226272

After two seasons and 50hrs run time I am happy with my choice of the 1026R. Sure it has its limits in the woods, but I'm not in a race to knock it all down. The AutoConnect deck of the one series is what sealed the deal for me. This machine cuts grass very nicely and is really convenient for implement changeover. I love the 1026R, but will also take a look at the two series at its next redesign.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=it2DOpgGk5A&feature=youtube_gdata_player

A six foot rear blade will work behind the 1026R for light snows, but trying to move any dirt with it would be too much. I have a four foot box blade that works very well for moving dirt. After a few tries with the rear blade, I decided that I didn't like it very much. I've given my six foot rear blade to my dad, who didn't have one for his tractor. If you search on you tube, I have many 1026R clips, and will continue to add them in an effort to help the next generation of buyers.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xrHDJOT_28&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[barry1me]

I went through this same predicament seven months ago. You can find some very nice comments and encouragement here: 1026r vs. 2520 - TractorByNet.com

After two seasons and 50hrs run time I am happy with my choice of the 1026R. Sure it has its limits in the woods, but I'm not in a race to knock it all down. The AutoConnect deck of the one series is what sealed the deal for me. This machine cuts grass very nicely and is really convenient for implement changeover. I love the 1026R, but will also take a look at the two series at its next redesign.

John Deere 1026R with 54D auto connect - YouTube

A six foot rear blade will work behind the 1026R for light snows, but trying to move any dirt with it would be too much. I have a four foot box blade that works very well for moving dirt. After a few tries with the rear blade, I decided that I didn't like it very much. I've given my six foot rear blade to my dad, who didn't have one for his tractor. If you search on you tube, I have many 1026R clips, and will continue to add them in an effort to help the next generation of buyers.

John Deere 1026R plowing snow - YouTube

lol I was showing my dad your videos on youtube yesterday of you plowing snow....small world. Your only about 25 minutes from me in Howell!

 

[igpoobah]

Buy all the tractor you can afford. I bought a 2320 2 years ago and it was all I could afford. Now that I have some equity built up I am looking to trade in on a 3320. The 2320 is too light for serious box blade or FEL work.

 

[p0peye]

The 1026R may sound like a lower price but if you are like most of us you will want all the attachments at some point. So the 2520 would be best since your family has all the attachments you would want. So price out the 1026R with attachments to be sure. I have the 2520 and it is very good from grass cutting to tilling a garden as well as loader work. Good luck with your decision .

 

[barry1me]

Anyone have a picture of a 1 series overlayed from top view with a 2 series? Curious to see how different the footprint is.

 

[swick1]

I do commercial work with a 1026r tlb. When I have big jobs I rent a track loader or mini excavator. I could make the argument that a 3320 is too light for dirt work. Get what you will use most. Buy the features that make your life easier. Don't worry if it's small. You'll have just as much fun with it. For me the extra $4k to upgrade to a worse mower with an old fashioned backhoe that had to be removed to use the mower was a deal breaker.


Btw: all cuts are too light for dirt work but it doesn't stop me! Hahahahaha!