MikeDspain
Member
Thanks, I'm going to order 1 tomorrow. It can't hurt anything even if it doesn't help very much but as quick as my 3 pt drops I think it'll help.
1984 1710
- Thread starter Kent B
- Start date
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Kent B
Silver Member
Here is the page from the manual showing all of the parts.
I did not take the cylinder head apart. From the looks of things it didn't seem like it was necessary at the time. The six bolts(threads) that held the cylinder head on were a bit rusty so I soaked the rust off, oiled them up and reused them.
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Kent B
Silver Member
Here is a photo of my rear wheels. One coat of POR-15 on the first one compared to one unpainted.
Getting ready to do a second coat...that is if I can find another brush. The first one is shot.
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Kopierguy
Member
- Joined
- Jun 17, 2013
- Messages
- 29
- Location
- Lake Conroe, TX
- Tractor
- Ford 1710, Kubota L245, Kubota G1900
Por 15 is a great product. Also good for coating and sealing gas tanks. Just don't get it on hands as you will wear it for weeks. Don't ask how I know this.
MikeDspain
Member
So I had some free time today and headed over to my nearest New Holland dealer (35 miles away) to get the piston seal and other maybe necessary gaskets. They told me the old part number had been updated and here is the new part & number SBA-052110650 (it's a rubber O ring instead of a plastic ring).
I asked twice about it since its so different from the original and he was sticking to his books upgraded part. I'll try to work on it Saturday or Sunday and see if it fits properly. I have my fingers crossed though, sure is different.
I asked twice about it since its so different from the original and he was sticking to his books upgraded part. I'll try to work on it Saturday or Sunday and see if it fits properly. I have my fingers crossed though, sure is different.
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Kent B
Silver Member
I searched the part # sba052110650 on google and found that it is on a parts diagram for a New Holland TC35 along with some other models. TC35DA showing part(s) 45 and 46.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/new-holland-owning-operating/232602d1317954992-tc35da-3-point-lift-tc35da-lift.pdf.
I suppose that could be true. The "O" ring might be more durable than the old plastic seals that have been shown in disintegrated variations.
Your parts guy might be right but I would like to see it on paper before I am 100% convinced.
All of these old paper-back manuals don't get upgraded. I imagine you will be fine.
I do see two parts instead of just one. Looks like a ring + an "O" ring.
See if that link takes you to the page where I found it.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/new-holland-owning-operating/232602d1317954992-tc35da-3-point-lift-tc35da-lift.pdf.
I suppose that could be true. The "O" ring might be more durable than the old plastic seals that have been shown in disintegrated variations.
Your parts guy might be right but I would like to see it on paper before I am 100% convinced.
All of these old paper-back manuals don't get upgraded. I imagine you will be fine.
I do see two parts instead of just one. Looks like a ring + an "O" ring.
See if that link takes you to the page where I found it.
MikeDspain
Member
He sold me 2 different O rings, didn't have the 3rd in stock but he said it was for the cover seal and prob not necessary. I'll see tomorrow. I'd rather have the original, I know that would have fit like it is supposed to.
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Kent B
Silver Member
I know that the plastic seal is a tight fit. The piston could still be pushed by hand inside the cylinder so I don't think it will resist (as in bind up) under 2 to 3000 lbs of hydraulic pressure.
If the "O" ring is what they are using on the current model tractors it must be for a good reason. My "O" ring on the cylinder head was fine. If I had a new one I would have swapped it out anyway.
The rubber in the rings must be more resistant to the fluid...more so than the plastic.
Thanks for that info.
I had not thought about the possibility of new and improved replacements. I'll keep an open mind in case I run into a similar situation.
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Kent B
Silver Member
On a side note:
I picked up a $25 universal temp gauge (cable and all) at TSC the other day. It says it will fit "all" liquid cooled engines. Since my old one is shot (pegged on hot) I thought I would get that back up to code. I haven't figured out how the old one comes out yet.
I don't want to take the fuel tank off to get in there. There isn't a whole lot of room for wrenches up underside. The new gauge looks to be the same size so that part should drop into the console just fine. As long as the threads on the sending unit fit I'll be good.
Hopefully I will be finishing up my wheels this weekend so I will be buying new shoes come next week. It has been raining cats and dogs here (for days) in North Fla. Not good weather for painting.
I am really grateful for this website. Thanks to everybody. :thumbsup:
Kent B.
I picked up a $25 universal temp gauge (cable and all) at TSC the other day. It says it will fit "all" liquid cooled engines. Since my old one is shot (pegged on hot) I thought I would get that back up to code. I haven't figured out how the old one comes out yet.
I don't want to take the fuel tank off to get in there. There isn't a whole lot of room for wrenches up underside. The new gauge looks to be the same size so that part should drop into the console just fine. As long as the threads on the sending unit fit I'll be good.
Hopefully I will be finishing up my wheels this weekend so I will be buying new shoes come next week. It has been raining cats and dogs here (for days) in North Fla. Not good weather for painting.
I am really grateful for this website. Thanks to everybody. :thumbsup:
Kent B.