Attaching attachments

[ArtMech]

Buy a tractor for each implement.



Bruce

I have a neighbour farmer, who really has a tractor for each implement. All of them are old Belarus. He buys them defective, means cheap, fixes them himself and runs.

Welcome to :tractor:-BN, MountainBuck

 

[roadhunter]

3 pints can be a real PITA, especially when you have an implement that is too heavy to wiggle into position. There is a reason that almost no other equipment that size uses a 3 point for attachments as things like skid steer attachment plate are much easier to use.

Some like the quick hitch but that only works if all your implements have the same dimensions as far as pin locations.

I suspect with time you will get faster at swapping implements.

 

[johara1]

I do it from the side, i by passed the stupid seat switch. I can see walk right in with it level the arms and give it a little wiggle and walk in front of the mower and push it back lock it and put the belt on and set the tension. Done in less than a minute…….. The bucket is the biggest pain if it is inside, outside it is easy against the gravel pile. Jim

 

[MountainBuck]

Thanks all! I dropped the bucket on a pallet which worked well then lubed up the front posts and the mower went on in about a minute. I liked the idea of not putting that mower foot down and dropping that on a pallet too.

Still haven't tried the rake again.

 

[johara1]

I really don't think you want to use lube on the arms it will attract and hold dirt. It will accelerate the wear. There is a lot of clearance built in, a little wiggle, lines every thing up. jim

 

[RalphVa]

If you cannot park the implements on flat, solid surfaces where you can move them about on castors or dolly underneath, you'll need those extendable arms to give you some more flexibility.

First time with my tractor, I just dropped the bush hog onto the ground. About died getting it back on.

Now, with it on a 2x6 with castors underneath, I've taken it off, put something else on and then put it back on, all in the same afternoon.

Ralph

 

[johara1]

You must be talking about 3 point hitch stuff? ………. jim

 

[TNMark1]

Takes a while to get used to the Ventrac front hitch....

Set weight transfer to ZERO.....

Take the implement off the dolly if you have it one one... If its on wheels on a driveway or concrete, plan on chasing it around. Easier if you put it on grass. I've done the push into a wall thing... BUT DON"T really push hard into the wall, use the wall to stop it from rolling away...

First, grease the lift arms a bit. Put the lift arms DOWN, (not float). Pull up to the implement looking around the right side of the tractor.. As you move forward, you need to make sure the right OUTSIDE of right hitch arm is almost touching the inside of the right side of the implement hitch... Move forward until the the hitch arms are under the implement.

Set the brake and get off the tractor so you can see better.... Lift the hitch arms until they are level with the implement hitch, Now turn the steering wheel until the hitch arms are going straight into the implement.

Get back on the tractor, release the brake, move forward...

If you can lock the hitch, do it now. Sometimes, I'll pick up the implement with the hitch and slide it on pushing from the front of the implement. Or with a mower on wheels (if its on a hard surface), I'll also push it on on its wheels....

Then hook up belt and hydraulics.... Hooking up the belt and hydraulics before the hitch is locked really doesn't help....

Bucket ... the trick is to level the bucket BEFORE you take it off. If not when you take it off, the hitch is in a position that makes it hard to hook up.. Sometimes raising the back of the bucket (slide a 2x4 under it) will help....

After you do it a few times it gets easier... quick way to unhook to mount something else is to pull the belt off before you get on the tractor (saves a trip on and off)... then unlatch it when you take the implement off. If its on wheels and on a hard surface and doesn't want to come off.... Unlatch, move forward and as you are going forward, hit reverse, its slides right off....


Mark

 

[johara1]

I can't understand why you grease the lift . arms……. with all the side clearance +- .250 why you need grease? This 4500 is my third one, and no grease. Steiner or Ventrac are the same. … jim

 

[prs]

I tend to grease the top surface of the lift arm once in a while. There is no clearance there when aligned so that the latches will close, but I will admit that there is only slight pressure there when aligned. I have never had much success looking over the right side of the tractor to see the hitch, I am a left looker --- either way, the sight path is really small. There was a thread some time back where use of a video camera was discussed; I think the time necessary to rig that, would never be equaled by the aggregate time spent coupling if you were to just rely upon experience.

prs