Attaching attachments

   / Attaching attachments #31  
Jack is a good one to ask about anything Ventrac. Raw Dodge is also a good source of information. anything going on the rear is much easier with the hydraulic top link. It will get easier with experience - it is also good to have the tractor in low range so going forward and reverse are slower. Grease on the slides helps too. Rubber chocks would be one of the best ideas on concrete. YES, the weight transfer should be off.
Good Luck
 
   / Attaching attachments
  • Thread Starter
#32  
A few weeks ago I tried once again to attach the rough cut mower.

I had last dropped it on a pallet but when I tried to attach it again the first thing that happened is it fell off the pallet. This was a bad thing because it was forever trying to get it to a place I could try and attach it again.

For the next 4 hours I tried everything but it would not go that last inch so that I could close the lock. Finally I called the dealer who gave me some pointers over the phone and I tried for another hour with no luck. I called the dealer again in defeat and he said he could come out to me in a few days.

While I waited and fumed over how much I paid for this tractor, I calmed down enough to get out my callipers and found that one of the hooks on the attachment was bent. The bottom of one of the hooks on the implement was bent up about 1/2 inch.

Measuring the attachment pin on the tractor at 3/4", I got a 3/4" wood dowel rod and found sure enough that it would not fit in the bent pac-man like mouth of the attachment. Only one pac-man mouth was bent, the other was ok. So nothing I could have done in that 5 hours would ever have gotten the implement attached because it was impossible to attach.

When the dealer came, he looked everything over. He agreed that the hook was bent and took an air grinder to it and it was back on in a few minutes. I have no idea when this bent or how. My best guess is when it fell off the pallet. Somehow the cover to the pulley on the attachment was all bent up too. Don't know when that happened, but hey, a lot can happen in 5 hours of frustration.

He then demonstrated the attachment process to me. The only thing that I was really missing was the jiggle on the steering wheel just as the attachment gets close to being locked. I was doing it, but not at the much faster frequency that the dealer did it. I suppose this is to break the binding situation that happens.

The only implement I'm leaving on a pallet is the bucket and as pointed out earlier in this thread, paying attention to the orientation of the bucket so the attachment arms are in the best position. I put some electrical tape on the back of the bucket as markers where to leave it when taking it off.

Still not sure about the landscape rake. Its problem is the attachment arms float in a different way that the mower arms float. That and it is such a light implement. The dealer extended the wheels out in front further and he said that would make it easier to attach, but I haven't tried it since.

One final thing I've been doing is I bought 2 led lights that have magnets on them. When I go to hook up, I stick those lights on the cowl of the tractor and light up the hooks on the tractor so I can see them much better.

I do appreciate the responses to this thread. They have helped me!
 
   / Attaching attachments #33  
I think the lights are a great idea. Can you post a link to them? Practice makes perfect and as it wears in a bit it will get easier.
 
   / Attaching attachments #34  
The best way i found to unhook from the bucket,is to make sure it is flat on the ground. then i i unhook from it and just back up a little so the arms are free then adjust the bucket arms with the hydraulic so it will reattach easily then unhook the hoses. Now if you have a leak in the quick coupler ti is a waste of time..... jim
 
   / Attaching attachments #35  
I recall a response here or another thread where the operator bypassed the seat "kill switch" feature so he could connect while standing beside the tractor to see much better. I have noticed that such is possible without modifying any switches if you simply apply the park brake to the very first notch that lets the red dash light glow. Then the tractor (or at least mine) will still move without dying when out of the seat. My brake does not hold until about the 5th notch. I do not do that to hook-up, but it is a handy way to get the inside tire Schrader valves aligned so that pressure can be checked.

prs
 
   / Attaching attachments
  • Thread Starter
#36  
I think the lights are a great idea. Can you post a link to them? Practice makes perfect and as it wears in a bit it will get easier.

Hey Murph,

Just those free ones (with coupon) from Harbor Freight. Got one that is blue with a magnet and paid a little for the new red one with a magnet.
 
   / Attaching attachments #37  
Hey Murph,

Just those free ones (with coupon) from Harbor Freight. Got one that is blue with a magnet and paid a little for the new red one with a magnet.

Are they battery powered?
 
   / Attaching attachments
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Are they battery powered?

Yes, battery powered. I slide the blue one up under the cowl and have it pointing down. Just watch out not to get too close to the muffler. Lots of hot things in that area and the muffler blows in my face if I'm not watching were I put my head.
 
   / Attaching attachments #39  
I recall a response here or another thread where the operator bypassed the seat "kill switch" feature so he could connect while standing beside the tractor to see much better. I have noticed that such is possible without modifying any switches if you simply apply the park brake to the very first notch that lets the red dash light glow. Then the tractor (or at least mine) will still move without dying when out of the seat. My brake does not hold until about the 5th notch. I do not do that to hook-up, but it is a handy way to get the inside tire Schrader valves aligned so that pressure can be checked.

prs

I do not do anything to the switch. i simply un hook the connection a and make a U shaped piece from a short piece of Meg. welding wire .030 and tape it up and tuck it out of the way. If you need to put it back the way it was take the tape off remove the wire and reconnect it to the seat switch. If Ventrac were smart they would build one with the engine in the back that was a little more robust than the 3000 series and you could do everything from the seat because you could see. Mowing is easier no need look around the hood and add weight to the back to pick anything up..... jim
 
   / Attaching attachments #40  
I've had Ventrac since 2003. The first time I attempted to hook up my deck yeah it was a fight. Now It's usually less than a minute for slip scoop, mower deck, snow plow or the blower attachment. If your having to get off the tractor, your not doing it right. To learn how to manipulate the controls to hook it up fast every time... first lower your tractor arms, drive forward untill arms are under attachment point, then slowly raise tractor arms, until both are level. Pull forward if it doesn't go in all the way stop right there get off and stick your head down there and look and see whats hitting. Once you see what's hitting and keeping you from fully engaging you will know what adjustments (up or down) need to be made. Also a slight wiggle of the wheel to shake the front end side to side helps as well. But again...you need to understand what these attachment points are doing while they are engaging, and the only way is to get off the tractor and have look.

I have a 2x10 up against my wall (so I don't damage drywall) so that I can gently NUDGE the attachment up to it. Even with perfect technique the attachments need a bit of resistance to slide into engagement. Practice is all it takes...
 
 
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