K
kingoflawns
Guest
All good information on the 3030, with the exception of the tires. I demmoed a 3030 without filled rears, the citrus star is a must, it feels like a different tractor with the extra weight, way more stable!!
B3030 Mowing and Snow Removal
- Thread starter solrheat
- Start date
K
kingoflawns
Guest
All good information on the 3030, with the exception of the tires. I demmoed a 3030 without filled rears, the citrus star is a must, it feels like a different tractor with the extra weight, way more stable!!
Toolguy
Platinum Member
I second the filled rear tires. Mine have Rim Guard in them. With that and the rear blade on I have never felt the need for more weight on the rear. A ballast box would be better for close quarters work so see if the dealer will throw one in with the deal. It can't hurt to ask. All he can say is no. If he does, no big deal. Try it for a while, as is, and if you think you need the extra weight you can always get one later.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
Toolguy
Platinum Member
I second the filled rear tires. Mine have Rim Guard in them. With that and the rear blade on I have never felt the need for more weight on the rear. A ballast box would be better for close quarters work so see if the dealer will throw one in with the deal. It can't hurt to ask. All he can say is no. If he does, no big deal. Try it for a while, as is, and if you think you need the extra weight you can always get one later.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
As far as using a rear blade, the trick is to angle it. If you keep it straight it will follow every dip and make them worse. When it is angled it spans the dips and pulls the high spots down. With just a few passes you can level just about anything, within reason.
Stef
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now as to those tires...should I internally ballast the turf tires or get chains for traction when snow blowing? Do they even make chains for those bad boys? )</font>
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
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Stef
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now as to those tires...should I internally ballast the turf tires or get chains for traction when snow blowing? Do they even make chains for those bad boys? )</font>
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
You won't need any. With a blower you don't need the same traction as with a snowplow. As to fill the rear tires... mmmm... it's a good thing for loader work (or any other earth moving job like: box blade, rear blade, etc.) but if you want to mow... I'm not sure I would do that.
KubotaOne is right about hydraulic rotator and deflector. I have both too and I wouldn't do it without them.
About the trailer, I had one: 6.5'x16'. With a 60" MMM mounted on it was tight (1.5" on each side). If you plan to get a 72" MMM, I'm not sure but maybe with the chute raised up it can fit but it's only a guess. You don't have to worry about the offset between front and rear wheels width. They share, more or less, the same line. I never had any problem getting on the trailer.
Stef
Platinum Member
Stef
Platinum Member
I found something to show you the width of the front and rear wheels. I have to mention though that I have spacers mounted on the rear wheels so usually a rear wheel is 3" closer on each side.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Stef, i also have the hydraulic rotator control but not the deflector, could you post a photo of the deflector? Thankx, Scott.
K
kingoflawns
Guest
Stef, i also have the hydraulic rotator control but not the deflector, could you post a photo of the deflector? Thankx, Scott.