Price Check Buying a used MX5100 - some questions.

[sixdogs]

Having lived in both wooded and open areas, I find it's better for the average guy to use the tractor as it was intended rather than cobble up bunch of metal and then try to use the tractor as a bulldozer or skidder or something else it was not intended to be. If used as intended, no protection is needed. A grill guard would be an exception since twigs can puncture things. I would rather stay out of the twigs but that's just me. Unless you bought this specifically as an item intended for the woods, my vote is use pretty much as intended and be good with it. Or get a skidder or bulldozer.

Things with overkill plate, etc don't re-sell well unless you find another person who wants the same thing. Even then, buyers could be nervous about how the tractor was used. This is just my opinion and am offering my view of things. Just my two cents so if determined to go a certain direction, go for it.

 

[jeff9366]

When mowing brush it is important, once moving forward through brush, to continue.

If you stop, then reverse direction, all the brush pushed flat under the tractor will rise up and tear at the tractor undercarriage.

This is why HEAVY DUTY rotary cutters are often pushed into brush tail wheel first, with the tractor in reverse. Heavy Duty rotary cutters have very rugged tail wheels and tail wheel supports.

 

[LD1]

Too much money.

should be about $21k out the door base price.

I just got mine this spring. Even $20k OTD. Same year, HST, loader, no remotes or attachments, etc. Mine had 348 hrs, so I'm valuing yours another $1000 higher.

Personally I'd avoid a "standard" duty box blade.

You will have no issues at all with a 1000# cutter. My 6' cutter is 1100#. It's not heavy enough to max out loader lift capacity...but I don't have loaded tires....yet. Just bought two 55gal drums of ww fluid.

I run a 1620# 8' twin spindle cutter on mine. Only use the 6' heavy cutter for real dense overgrowth, as it's rated to cut up to 3" stuff, where as my 8' is good for 1.5" stuff only

 

[Moluke]

I do agree, having to build skid plates & guards isn't ideal, but i'm not entirely sure it's necessary yet - we shall see. I understand that the tractor isn't a piece of forestry equipment, but regardless, it will be used in the woods. I have thought quite a bit about a piece of construction type machinery, but they wouldn't fulfill my needs. I'm looking for one machine that will do a little bit of everything. Sure, it won't move dirt like a piece of construction machinery, but it is very versatile.
The skid plates thing was only half serious, however I don't think that they are necessarily a bad idea.

LD1, I have seen your fantastic threads on adding remote hydraulics to your tractor. I've considered doing that myself, but i've never messed with hydraulics before, and am not terribly "mechanically inclined". I'd rather let the professionals do it, and know that it was (probably) done (mostly) right.

Personally I'd avoid a "standard" duty box blade.

I do have reservations about the standard duty box blade. Other than strength, what other advantages does a "heavy duty" box blade have?

Thanks - Luke.

 

[LD1]

Heavier box blades cut material better instead of chattering across the surface.

Light duty would be great for spreading topsoil, sand, or loose stone. But working up virgin ground to level, or grading an existing driveway with packed stone....heavier is better

 

[Moluke]

Ah, good point. And I suppose heavier also means better ballast for loader work?

 

[LD1]

Ah, good point. And I suppose heavier also means better ballast for loader work?

Correct. But something heavy enough to make a good BB may still be a tad light for the loader. My 1100# bushhog that sticks back there a good ways is not enough. I can still lift the back tires before running out of loader capacity. But that's also with unloaded tires.

My 1620# cutter is my go-to for heavy lifting.

I am curious to know what you got quoted when you referenced "standard" duty box blade. Land pride makes several 6'

The 1272 is only rated for 30hp and is 400#
The 1572 is only rated for 40hp and is 500#
The 2572 is 55hp and 550#
The HR2572 jumps to 850#
They also make a HR3578 that adds another 100#

If it were me, I'd want something more than a 550# 6' BB.

 

[motownbrowne]

I do agree, having to build skid plates & guards isn't ideal, but i'm not entirely sure it's necessary yet - we shall see. I understand that the tractor isn't a piece of forestry equipment, but regardless, it will be used in the woods. I have thought quite a bit about a piece of construction type machinery, but they wouldn't fulfill my needs. I'm looking for one machine that will do a little bit of everything. Sure, it won't move dirt like a piece of construction machinery, but it is very versatile.
The skid plates thing was only half serious, however I don't think that they are necessarily a bad idea.

LD1, I have seen your fantastic threads on adding remote hydraulics to your tractor. I've considered doing that myself, but i've never messed with hydraulics before, and am not terribly "mechanically inclined". I'd rather let the professionals do it, and know that it was (probably) done (mostly) right.

I do have reservations about the standard duty box blade. Other than strength, what other advantages does a "heavy duty" box blade have?

Thanks - Luke.

Another possibility would be hiring someone to install the leads in LD1's build. I know my dealer wants about $900/remote. LD1's build is like what, $1,200 for three plus top and tilt? Not trying to twist your arm, just a thought.

 

[sixdogs]

On remotes, I have a different view. I'm not used to working with hydraulics but do know I don't want to learn hydraulic stuff as it relates to remotes at this stage of life. Maybe if I did it over the years but not now. A guy like LD1 is pretty clever, knows what to fix if it goes wrong and knows what he's doing. Fact is, I do not.

So I hired out my remote install to the dealer. They did it while I waited and in multiple uses nothing has gone wrong. I'm OK with that because a problem with a remote when I need a remote would cost me $$. Unless, I was skilled in this area, I would hire it out like you first mentioned.

 

[LD1]

Another possibility would be hiring someone to install the leads in LD1's build. I know my dealer wants about $900/remote. LD1's build is like what, $1,200 for three plus top and tilt? Not trying to twist your arm, just a thought.

Close. It was under $500 for the three remotes. And under $900 total I'd you include the TNT