Jimna 254 hard starting

[Jimmy254]

I dont have a pic but i have the valve on the outside and the weight on the inside and also flipped the centre hub so its the widest it can be. I used this as a guide. Except when i did the 5th setting i found tyre rotation was the wrong way so I didnt need to alternate left and right. Maybe i had too many beers. Those tyres are heavy. Rear Wheel Width Positions | CHINESE TRACTOR WORLD FORUMS

 

[piper184]

That is interesting. I knew there were width options but hadn't considered all of them. Mine came out of the crate in position 2 from the chart. with that setup I am still narrower than the 3 point snow blower, so probably won't be going wider unless something changes in the way I use the tractor. The FEL bucket won't cover the rear tracks but that will change as soon as I weld up a new bucket. Been on my bucket list for years... (rim shot, ba-dum!)

I saved the chart for future reference. Thanks.

 

[Jimmy254]

Are you planning to add to the existing bucket or do a new one? My bucket has reinforcing steel along the top which was designed to hook up a couple of very heavy duty fork tines that are too heavy for the lifting capacity. The advantage of this top bar is that it can can take a lot more punishment when pushing over small trees etc. When i use the bottom lip of the bucket in comparison i can pretty much see it bending against a similar force. Would love a grapple but i dont think ill ever get one. What i need is something on the bucket that can be used to push branches into burn piles. Kinda like a cow catcher on a train. The bucket is too small for this. It either rides over the branches on the ground or slips under branches causing the branches to ride up over and on to ghe tractor which means stopping and reversing and removing them.

 

[piper184]

Sounds like you need a root grapple or perhaps a skeleton rock bucket. Take a look at all the stuff here https://www.palletforks.com/ for ideas.

My OEM bucket is 48" and is about right for dirt or gravel. It won't quite cover the front tires which are 50" wide. A full load of wet soil or gravel makes the loader grunt. I used to have bolt on pallet forks but they were a pain to use and moved the load forward 24", which severely limited the capacity.

A couple of years ago I unbolted the bucket and cut the mounting brackets off. Then welded on a skid steer universal mounting plate. Got a set of mounts for the tractor side and welded the old brackets onto the mounts so they would fit the plate on the bucket. I also bought a couple of extra plates with the intention of making a bucket, a push blade and a setup for pallet forks. Before I got that done I found a good deal on a set of forks that were made for the universal skid steer mounts. A very good investment as last summer I had a big project that required frequent changes from bucket to forks and back. A real labor saver.

Two issues with the fork setup. They are heavy and reduce the lift capacity by about 300#, but it is closer to the frame so you gain some of that back. Second, they were not made exactly right and they won't roll back enough to be level when on the ground. The tips dig in. I went with the 48" forks as I typically am picking up pallets of that size. I'm sure I can re-work the mounts on the frame and get more roll back. Another to do item....

I still plan on welding up a snow bucket. Extra capacity height with air/sight holes in the back. Probably 60 to 65 inches wide. A v-plow would be nice to have too, probably about the same width. My weld shop is unheated so I spend most of the cold weather time in the machine shop. Big welding jobs get put off for warmer weather, when there is time.

 

[Jimmy254]

Could you have welded a mounting plate to the fel and and a set of mounts to the bucket?

 

[Jimmy254]

After reading a bit more about skid steer quick hitch i think my previous question was pretty dumb. I get it now that the mounting plate goes on the buckets. My initial idea is to test pilot a steel grate or heavy duty gate bolted or mounted on to the bucket somehow. Getting it strong enough would be the issue but that is where the testing comes in. A quick mount root or rock rake would be ideal of course but the stuff i want to push around will already have been pushed over or cut down. It probably wont work but i need to give it a go.

 

[Harrygoodwrench]

Is the starter turning the engine normally? I've had my Jinma since 2004 as a crate unit. My starter was never right. In cold weather it just didn't spin up correctly making it difficult to start even plugged in. I tried to disassemble starter but it was so corroded inside I purchased a new starter from Circle G tractor. Still using it on occasion for moving snow and dirt, etc.

 

[Jimmy254]

Tractor starts consistently now. I think the main issue was the poor electrical connections to the battery post but took me too long to figure it out. The starter always seem to spin strong but its a very fine line between starting and not starting.

 

[piper184]

There was a time when the new Jinma starters were assembled without lube and they were problematic from the beginning. This was exacerbated by the fact that they also painted the mounting surface on the starter AND the bell housing, which gave it a poor ground at best.

In any case, cleaning and lubing a starter is just standard maintenance and needs to be done every few years anyway. More often if the tractor is stored outside. These are "old school" design starters and taking them apart for service is not all that hard. You will be surprised how much better they work with a clean commutator and contacts along with fresh lube in the bushings.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Tommy at Affordable Tractor used to sell an updated gear reduction starter for these engines that really spun them up fast. Not sure if he still has them. His site is currently down for maintenance but you could give him a call.