Sliding doors for Pole Barn

[newbury]

I would think twice about putting OSB on the roof too. Seems like a waste of resources to me, run 2x4 strapping/purlins and apply the metal roofing right to it. As long as your eaves are vented properly condensation shouldn't be a huge issue

I agree on 2x4 strapping/purlins. I had my 40x60x14 metal shed reroofed about 10 years ago. It rained inside every summer due to condensation. The roofer put a foam layer between the purlins and the metal (~1/4") hasn't rained inside since.

 

[Renze]

This is the barn door i made for my friends bike shed. He has lost control of his right hand due to a car accident in his youth, and the bike with electric pedal support is a bit too heavy to lift around the corner of a 1960s 80cm (31.5") door...

A rail of 20mm rod cast in concrete, and two rubber clad guide rollers on the top. Two threaded rods driven out to the point where their tops are 2mm from the upper rail, so no thug can lift the door off the lower rollers, and pull it out from underneath to steal his electric bike or tools. All galvanised and on sealed roller bearings, so it will last him a lifetime.

 

[nyone]

Doing preliminary research on building a 40x60 pole barn machine shed to store haying equipment. It will be nothing fancy: metal roof over OSB and metal siding nailed to 2x6 ribbing on utility poles no interior finish. I've been thinking about 14'w by 12'h at each end to allow drive through of my equipment. I don't think overhead doors are in the budget and I was thinking of site built sliding door, metal over wood frame. Here's my question, and a request for any other suggestions: Is there a way to mount the doors inside the building frame and slide to a stop on the post? I live in heavy snow country Vermont-Canadian border and have quite a tussle with the other sliding doors on my barn in the winter. When I search for this, I get mostly pictures of inside dwellings, not farm buildings. Obviously I will lose a little inside space on the gable end, but that would be offset by not having to deal with the doors freezing to ground or having shovel constantly. If this is a bad idea,please tell me why.

Second question, less important,but still interesting: I have seen the aluminum faced bubble insulation touted a way to keep from having the underside of the roof sweat. I appreciate that the true insulating value of the stuff is low (one u tuber says it's only good use is to make halloween costumes for your kids) but I wonder if having the reflective and vapor barrier there is worth the trouble and cost (maybe $1800 for my project) in what will be cold building with a certain amount of air flow.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions

For a sweat stopper just vent it very well and possibly even put a gabel fan in. The bubble foil is just doing the same thing that a sheet of plastic is going to do. I would also use real metal roof underlayment vs plastic sheeting.

Metal buildings sweat when the metal is cold and inside air is warm. So you can fix this by venting or doing alot of insulation.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Doing preliminary research on building a 40x60 pole barn machine shed to store haying equipment. It will be nothing fancy: metal roof over OSB and metal siding nailed to 2x6 ribbing on utility poles no interior finish. I've been thinking about 14'w by 12'h at each end to allow drive through of my equipment. I don't think overhead doors are in the budget and I was thinking of site built sliding door, metal over wood frame. Here's my question, and a request for any other suggestions: Is there a way to mount the doors inside the building frame and slide to a stop on the post? I live in heavy snow country Vermont-Canadian border and have quite a tussle with the other sliding doors on my barn in the winter. When I search for this, I get mostly pictures of inside dwellings, not farm buildings. Obviously I will lose a little inside space on the gable end, but that would be offset by not having to deal with the doors freezing to ground or having shovel constantly. If this is a bad idea,please tell me why.

Second question, less important,but still interesting: I have seen the aluminum faced bubble insulation touted a way to keep from having the underside of the roof sweat. I appreciate that the true insulating value of the stuff is low (one u tuber says it's only good use is to make halloween costumes for your kids) but I wonder if having the reflective and vapor barrier there is worth the trouble and cost (maybe $1800 for my project) in what will be cold building with a certain amount of air flow.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions

If I put metal over osb, I don't put metal over osb. Screws don't hold in osb. I WILL put osb, lathe it with 1x4, leaving 24&1/4 inches between lathes, rip 3/4" foam sheets half in two and put between lathes. Up there with your snow load, I'd lathe 16" and roll out the bubble insulation over the lathes, skip the osb. Bubble insulation against tin will stop condensation. Yes I've been all over Canada and Alaska.

 

[potomska]

I really appreciate all the thoughtful comments on my questions. I've made notes and will incorporate some of the suggestions. Thanks

i just saw this thread and wanted to know what you did to lock the sliders in place. I have built a shed with a slider that goes below the floor level, and is held in place by a reclaimed granite curb stone that is 2” off the sill. I used cheek stones to support the ramp up to floor level.