Starting issues YM2000

[normde2001]

I would work on getting a compression reading, looking for about 500psi, also you might check valve clearances, looking for .006" clearance. Are you SURE fuel is good and lines properly bled? DON"T pull the head without a really good reason. It's awfully hard to troubleshoot with the head off.

 

[284 International]

California (and Norm) both had excellent points that I hadn't considered. If your Thermostart is ablaze, spraying ether around it is not a good idea. I was shortsighted, and that can be dangerous: This is a good example of why free internet advice is something to always be applied with a dose of your own situation, reality, and common sense. I figured he was still using a jumper wire to feed the solenoid on his starter, not the Thermostart. I'm sorry.

YM200inGA, can you give us a list of exactly what all you have tried?

 

[YM200inGA]

Ok, from what I've read it seems like mine was built without a thermo-start. It just has a delete plug where it should be.

I tried searching the forums but wasn't able to find anything. Has anyone successfully gotten a generic HarborFriegth Diesel compression tester to work with this motor? If so what adapters did you use I can seem to find any fitting that fits.

My friend also pointed out that it seems like there should be some sort of washer where the injector meets up with the block but neither of mine have it. Should there be one there? If so how big of a deal is it that they are missing?

Thanks

Also would it be ok to use a heat gun instead of a hair dryer or would it be too hot? I can't get my wife to give hers up.

 

[normde2001]

Sounds like you need item 34 .
OOPS, messed that one up.

Unfortunately some diesel comp testers come with the correct adapter for your tractor and some don't. Hoye has this one , or you may have to modify one.

 

[winston1]

Here is a picture of your injectors and gaskets. Still think pulling it might get you going. I have read of several members having success. If you do pull your compression release until engine begins to turn over, then release it. No, a heat gun will not be to hot. I doubt you would need to leave it on an hour.

 

[284 International]

Winston, thanks for clarifying for me. I was trying to say that with a shop light an hour would give it time to warm up the block and metal parts of the engine. It's not necessary to do that with a heat gun. That's just to warm the air going into the motor. Just turn it on when you're going to crank it.

On my YM240, the copper ring stayed on the engine side. If it's dirty, you may not even be able to tell if they're in there or not.

If you discover if the Harbor Freight compression tester works, make sure to post back here and let us know. I've looked for the same information too, unsuccessfully.

 

[California]

would it be ok to use a heat gun instead of a hair dryer

Worked for me today. I hadn't started the YM240 since early December.

I put the trickle charger on it overnight. Waited until mid-day, 55 degrees. Put the heat gun, on low, aimed at the head below the injectors for 20 minutes. The head was barely warm to the touch, maybe 95 degrees.

Started right up like it had been run an hour before.


Copper washer? Mine were teflon. #34 in Hoye's diagram, like Norm said.

 

[YM200inGA]

Is there a guide anywhere for checking the valve clearances? The service manual isn't terribly clear on the overall procedure.

Thanks

 

[normde2001]

Is there a guide anywhere for checking the valve clearances? The service manual isn't terribly clear on the overall procedure.

Thanks

What do you need to know, other than .006" clearance?

 

[YM200inGA]

Where is the thickness gauge placed?