Starting issues YM2000

   / Starting issues YM2000 #41  
284 International said:
I don't think you're in over your head, these things are very simple if you have a basic set of tools. Have you tried all of the things suggested yet, or at least some? Did the hair drier trick work? Have you tried jump starting it with a running car on the battery, for a little more spinning rpm?

Here's my logic: right now, it doesn't run. If you pull the head off, it won't run either, and by pulling the head all you will be able to tell is if there is really bad damage to the piston and/or cylinder walls. If there IS bad damage...it still won't run, and you'll have to tear it down further to fix it anyway.

If there isn't any easily visible damage, you're in a conundrum because you still don't know why it won't run, and putting it all back together puts you back at square one. I would say exhaust all your options that are currently available, and then start doing surgery.

Get a work light or halogen lamp and place it near or on the intake. Turn it on and leave it for an hour or so. Get everything nice and warm. If you are able, use a hair drier and just set it up to blow hot air toward and into the manifold. Connect your jumper cables to your car, get the car running, open activate the compression release, spin it for several seconds, then deactivate the compression release. Make sure the throttle is around the middle of its travel. It should fire up.

If you have decided that there is a condition that requires the engine to be rebuilt (Which I'm not convinced of yet, since it smokes a bit when you crank it), say you've tried the earlier sequence dozens of times and all hope is lost, then there's nothing to lose by doing this: With the air filter on normally, get the engine cranking with the decompression activated. With a can of starter fluid, give the quickest possible burst you can toward the air intake. Not INTO, but toward it. The vapors should be enough to combust, and you'll hear the engine try to fire and sound like it's coming apart. If you can't get it to even try on starter fluid, then the compression isn't as good as it seemed to be.

I really think you'll be able to get it running, even if you rebuild it yourself. These are very simple to take apart and put together, and there is a wealth of knowledge among the members here. You can do it!
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A couple things. I would use WD-40 instead of starting fluid, and spray it into the intake.

The other thing is that the correct starting procedure for these is to move the throttle all the way open and then crank, once the engine catches and is running on its own you move it to halfway and then down to a high idle.

Im not saying i have to start mine like this or a good running one will need this procedure, this is just what the manual and shop service manual say as the starting procedure.
 
   / Starting issues YM2000 #42  
I read here on TBN - (no direct experience) - that WD40 changed their formula a few years ago and it no longer has the volatility to work as starting fluid.

Google might find more info on this. I haven't researched it.

If you have some old cans of WD40 (doesn't everyone?) then that might work.
 
   / Starting issues YM2000 #44  
Clemson, you're right about the starting procedure according to the manual I've got for my YM186D. I also know that my worn out YM240 starts better in the middle setting of the throttle. He'll probably need to play with it.

According to the WD40 corporation's news release in, in 1996 they changed the formula, so that the propellant is carbon dioxide, rather than something flammable, I think propane and/or butane. That seems to explain why I couldn't ever get WD40 to work as starter fluid, as it had when I was a child.

I'm not advocating that anybody use ether, even though I have without ill effect. I just didn't want to see somebody spraying it directly into the engine's gullet. That WILL mess stuff up. If the thing doesn't start with a heat gun warming up the air and engine block/head, there really is something wrong. The thing is, we don't know how much he's done, really. Checking the valves and compression is good, and harmless. Spraying ether (or any other starting aid) potentially is harmful to the engine, or, as you guys pointed out, and I neglected to consider, dangerous to the person using it.

He has said it blows puffs of white/grey smoke every other revolution. That seems like things are at least close. Getting the air good and hot with a hair drier or heat gun, and/or the cylinder head warmed up by the same, and spinning the engine quickly, whether by pull starting it or using a booster battery or whatever, seems like it ought to make the thing run, at least some. When I reassembled my YM240, I had the same hard time getting it to start. After I had it together correctly, it was still tough to start, until I ran it for a couple hours and finally got all the air bled out, I guess. But it acted very similar to what he is describing.

I never gave mine a shot of either, but had to use my battery booster on "start" the first couple times I fired it. After that, even with an old battery, it will fire up after a couple revolutions. Had I used the hair drier/heat gun trick, I doubt I'd have needed the booster. I just needed either a little more RPM, or a little more heat to make it run.

I'm sorry if I've come across as a know it all, I'm definitely not meaning to do that. The same members of the forum assisting here helped me for hours as I tried to resolve my own issues on this type of situation. Having been there, I understand the frustration. Thanks again to all who helped me. I just want to give some back.
 
   / Starting issues YM2000 #45  
Humm I hadn't heard that wd had changed their formula that's good to know I will have to try a new can you learn something everyday. :thumbsup:

I admit since I went on my own some 22 years ago I haven't worked on diesels that I didn't own and that's on purpose.

I know many years ago when I worked in GM dealers that's what we would start 6.2 diesels with they were notorious for blowing head gaskets anyway and the wd would start them real good and not knock as bad as either.
 
   / Starting issues YM2000 #46  
The WD40 formula didn't change, but they used to use LP gas as a propellant, where they now use co2. It's about 50% solvent, about the same volatility as diesel now.
 
   / Starting issues YM2000 #47  
YM200inGA, have you had any success with getting this machine started yet?
 
   / Starting issues YM2000
  • Thread Starter
#48  
normde2001 said:
Sounds like you need item 34 .
OOPS, messed that one up.

Unfortunately some diesel comp testers come with the correct adapter for your tractor and some don't. Hoye has this one , or you may have to modify one.
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So has anyone order the item 34 ^^ and had an issue placing them? They almost seem to small so its hard to get them to line up over the hole.
 
   / Starting issues YM2000 #50  
Item 34, 'fiber washer' in the post just above, is less than 1/16" thick and about the diameter of a nickel.

When you pull the injector the washer might stick to the injector (mine did) where you see it as a slight extension to the lower end of the injector. The end of the injector body should be flat after you get the fiber washer removed.

Looking down in the head cavity on mine I saw a groove where that washer nested into. At the center of the opening, surrounding the hole going down into the cylinder, the metal tapers up to make metal to metal contact aligned with the center of the injector. If your fiber washer is stuck down there then the bottom of the hole would look flat with a shiny ring at the center.

What do you see?
 
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