Stump Grinder Finished

[kruszert]

Again, thanks for the encouragement.

To answer a few of the questions - - I didn't consider a full hydraulic system because I don't know much about them and I had examples of PTO driven stump grinders. Renze's comments may be the reason why companies use the PTO.

I didn't have any plans but did print down pictures of PTO stump grinders and the parts diagrams for them. Scott's grinder is similar to the kind I saw on the internet. Less expensive to make - - use the gearbox to support the cutting wheel. Saves buying bearings, chain and sprockets which are expensive. Also makes construction easier. I was affraid that the gearbox I bought on ebay might not take the pounding so I opted for the chain design. May not have been necessary. I do have some large, old (not rotten) hardwood stumps that don't go down without a fight. If you make one of these you will find out how good your welds are - - - so far mine have held.

It took over a year to finish - - but I didn't work on it regularly just now and then in the beginning. The big parts came quick and relatively easy. The time is in the small stuff like cylinder attechment and guards.

Reggie

 

[jmc]

Reggie,

Did you consider orienting the cutter 90 degrees (looking down from above) to the existing cutter position to eliminate your 90 degree drive? I know that's unconventional but can't see why. It also gets you out of the plane of rotation although you made a nice guard for it.

John

 

[tiger9297]

That is some fine work there my friend. My father clears power line right-of-ways for utility companies. He's been in business for 43 years and has had numerous "factory" stump grinders. Of course growing up, during the summers, I was fortunate enough to "get" to grind stumps all the time. In looking at your grinder I was wondering how you move the grinder rearward as you grind away on the stump. Do you actually have to back the tractor up? Factory units are built where the trailer tongue is actually two pieces (one insided the other) with a cylinder that will literally lenthen the tongue. That keeps you from having to back the truck up an inch or so every time you make a pass. The beauty of moving the grinder rearward with hydraulics is that you can literally move it back the cutting width of the tooth. Much more precise than trying to back a tractor or truck.
Also, if the cutter is wanting to "walk" over the top of the stump you may just be trying to cut to low on the wheel. Rather the cut the stump with the, say 5 o'clock part of the wheel, drop it down a little and hit the stump with the 3 o'clock part of the wheel. Not sure if this will help, but worth trying. I wouldn't take much of a bigger bite than that or the wheel ends up having to drag the cut nearly 180 degrees and that will really tend to bog things down.
Just a few thoughts from someone who has spent many hours grinding many stumps over the years.
Again, that is an excellent looking machine. I'm sure you will enjoy it more and more as you learn to use it better. I would love to build something like that. Stump grinders also make fairly good trenchers.

 

[Renze]

Reggie,

Did you consider orienting the cutter 90 degrees (looking down from above) to the existing cutter position to eliminate your 90 degree drive? I know that's unconventional but can't see why. It also gets you out of the plane of rotation although you made a nice guard for it.

John

I guess that would rattle the 3pt stabiliser chains quite a bit and make a lot of noise...

 

[bx24]

Most farm tractors have a hydraulic output of no more than 25% of their engine output, so when driving it hydraulically, you need to use a PTO driven pump. Pump plus motor plus hoses plus safety relief = big $$$

The PTO drive is much more efficient, and is protected by a slip clutch on the grinder side. (the funny looking u-joint coupler)

I wonder if you could help avoid grabbing too much stump with some strategically placed "bite limiters" like you see on a chain saw blade .... basically some non-cutting teeth that only let you dig in so far ....

Very nice job ... to both of you

 

[Scotty370]

I haven't forgot about you guys (WKH) about plans etc. But pictures pretty much tell the tale, and I haven't got them yet! 'Been having computer problems that I got to get straighten out. Probably got another 20 stumps under my belt, and got a pretty good handle on what I can and can't do! Reggie- Ya definately want to look into those 'reverse' tooth pockets! The ability to cut straight down, is a real 'plus'!! ~Scotty

 

[jmc]

I guess that would rattle the 3pt stabiliser chains quite a bit and make a lot of noise...

Good point.

 

[wvpolekat]

Projects like this make me really hate that I don't have hydraulics on my N. I don't have any stumps to grind, but it would be an awesome project.

 

[J_J]

Just how big a tractor do you have? If you have a PTO, you can add hydraulics to your tractor, with this Prince pump.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2009070809510848&catname=hydraulic&keyword=HPPT

 

[wvpolekat]

It's a full sized Ford 2N, about 20-25hp. I thought about a PTO pump, but that would kill things like this that run off the PTO, right? Or can you still use the PTO?