Thoughts on Kubota M9000

[RancherGuy]

The reason I balked on the M7040 is that literally everything on the tractor was dented or bent. Both guards in front of the steering rods were bent almost touching the rods. Brush guard was bent. Hood was dented in -behind- the brush guard. The bar between the ends of the loader arms had been cut off and replaced with what looked like a rusty pipe. One front wheel had been replaced. That machine had been abused.

Great detail. When multiple examples of abuse is in evidence, the total extent is unknown and I think it wise to walk away. There will be another opportunity, especially of you circulate information that you are looking for another tractor, plus look into various selling channels, including farm and estate auctions.

I'm not sure how hard you are working your L4400, but my 2002 L3710 is a predecessor and seems quite capable and a hard working machine for its size.

 

[5030]

If you wait a few years, you can buy mine. I don't expect to keep running hay much longer as I'm 71 and have ongoing health issues. I'll not only give you a fair price, I'll include a shop manual and all maintenance records too. Like everything I sell or trade in, I guarantee them to be field ready. It seems like the mantra today is to beat the hell out of a machine, be lax on service and then sell it for a premium price. Don't work that way with me, never has which is probably why my dealer always gives me top buck on a trade. he knows I'm **** about taking care of my machines and implements.

I don't wax them but they are always serviced and I keep everything clean and tidy. I don't care for servicing a greasy, nasty machine because I don't wear latex gloves like are popular today. Make my hands sweat. Only time I wear them is when gutting wild game.

Like I said previously, you can eat off the engines and transmissions. No leaks and no crud anywhere. Last thing I do when I come home from the field before they get put away is they get blown off, fluids checked as well as tire pressure and always the radiators blown out and in c=the case of the cab unit, wiped down inside and the floor matting swept off and if the windows need Windexed, that too.

 

[N80]

I'm not sure how hard you are working your L4400, but my 2002 L3710 is a predecessor and seems quite capable and a hard working machine for its size.

Just today I had a log on the clamp on bucket forks and it would barely roll back the bucket. Had to go super slow to get it on the sawmill. Loader inputs had to be super slow or it would drop suddenly. Front tires bulging.

 

[5030]

Front tires bulging.

My rule of thumb is, I always keep the front tires around 10 psi over inflated to mitigate that 'bulge' a bit. Not like it makes the M's ride harder, they have no suspension anyway.

 

[Hay Dude]

lol….Boy you couldnt be more mistaken. 10 psi above?? holy cow, thats like solid rubber lol

Never over inflate your front tires. It makes them ride much harsher and wears the tire centers out faster, too. Theres no harm in some bulge on radials anyway.
I run all my fronts about 18 on the typical 22-24 recommended on the sidewall.
Adds so much comfort to the ride and increases traction, too. Probably decreases wear on components, too. Also creates less ruts on yards & fields.

If you read sidewalls on tires carefully, it says “MAX inflation__ PSI”. Its not required inflation, its max inflation-meaning you can run less. So why run at max inflation unless you are running your loader at max capacity all the time?

If you need to carry something extraordinarily heavy, air them up, but then take them back down to a comfortable level when you’re done.

Youre just beating your front end and yourself to death.

 

[N80]

I keep mine at max inflation. There is no appreciable difference in ride quality for the types of things I do. Mine are not radials. If under inflated at all the bead will come off with a heavy load on uneven terrain.

 

[Hay Dude]

I keep mine at max inflation. There is no appreciable difference in ride quality for the types of things I do. Mine are not radials. If under inflated at all the bead will come off with a heavy load on uneven terrain.

Non radials yeah.
10 psi above max is crazy though.

 

[5030]

Youre just beating your front end and yourself to death.

Hay Dudette...Unless you have front suspension, it makes NO difference in ride quality what a suspension seat is all about. Far as beating the front end, I highly doubt it in as much as if the front axle trunnions and center pivot are set correctly, there is no discernable movement in it at all. My 2002 and 2004 are both at 10 psi over maximum listed sidewall pressure and have been for years. I may drop to maximum rated sidewall pressure when my tire guy fits the Trelleborg radials to the 2004 this spring, but then again, maybe not.

Keep in mind that the fronts can be taken well above maximum rated capacity with a maximum loaded front loader bearing down on the front tires.

I do suspect the a lot of owners rarely check tire pressure anyway. Kind of like battery maintenance.

 

[Hay Dude]

WHAT? Thats exactly WHY you drop the pressure. Your tire pressure IS your suspension…. Just common sense.….I bet your sidewalls say ”max” or “recommended inflation __ PSI”.
And you run 10 PSI over that? No wonder you need new tires all the time with such little use lol
I carry a 3500 pound hay mower at 34MPH on tires inflated to about 18. MX-270 has at least 3,000lbs of front weights, too on 15 year old tires. I keep the pressure low in them to increase tire life and reduce ruts.
Bias inflated 10PSI over would destroy a field with any softness and wear the centers out in just a few years.

No need for name calling, either.

 

[ericm979]

Until you get your M9000, a set of SSQA forks would increase the load you can carry and decrease the strain on the tractor. Moving the load closer to the pins will have a significant effect.