TSC Chainsaw Sharpener

[deerseeker001]

i have a Stihl chainsaw chain and i set my grinder to 30 degrees.

 

[DarkBlack]

That looks like a copy of Northern tool's copy... of the Oregon 511a grinder.
Should work well for you once you get it figured out.

 

[murphy1244]

i have a Stihl chainsaw chain and i set my grinder to 30 degrees.

Thanks Ron.

 

[the old grind]

What many folks overlook is those little thingies between the cutting teeth. They reduce kickback, but also determine the cut depth per tooth. The tooth's backslope is called relief, and as you grind you lower the usable height. Some of us lower those non-cutters below typical stds of say .030"-.040". This can be done easily with an extra setup (or two) for each side. The saw will pull itself into the log and may bog more easily on some stuff with the extra bite. You may get a few extra cuts per grind, and a few more grinds per chain. Go with caution if you do this, but its part of getting the feel for your gear.

Know when to sharpen! I'm not a logger, I'm a retired journeyman tool grinder. One thing applies to most any cutting edge. The relief I spoke of above allows the tool to enter the cut without friction on the bottom or back side of the cutting edge. Lood at the top of the tooth. If you see a shiny spot on the corner you could use a redo soon and will want to check your chips for the bite you're getting. If you see sawdust vs chunks, it's probably time. 'Clean up' that shine, and it'll cut like new ... if you don't need to trim those nubs between teeth, too.

To avoid carving off too much tooth, be sure to set your angle, depth, and stop-finger with the grinder unplugged, and adjust the stop toward the wheel while turning it by hand. The least touch at all (find a 'high spot') will take a good bit off once you're running. Recognize that you can (and will) influence the amount removed with side pressure as you bring the wheel down, more so with the poly HFT or an all-metal with worn bushings. Pull the chain snug against the stop as you tighten the clamp to do each tooth. Be sure to adjust the track width semi-snug so the chain doesn't wag side to side. Sometimes you'll go around more than once too. Keeps the heat down when sparks are flying.

Dress your wheel to clean out captured metal or to reshape it as needed. Supply houses have 'sticks' for this for a few $$ and they work on all vitreous wheels. (A must have) Turn the wheel over if you like to even up corner wear, but never put one on without those paper washers. Expect it to wobble a tad either way, but that's no biggie. See above to feel that starting point when setting up. Dust the machine often to keep grit away from the motor's air inlet and bushings on the tilt. Don't blow it off with compressed air! Dedicate an old paintbrush to the task and hang it within reach.

The brand/makeup of power-sharpener matters less than how well you use it. I'd like to shoot a video on setup, since I could put a lot into 5 min or so.(It's pretty easy to get all the details down.) I'm sure others have posted such and may find a link to put up. Ask away, if you have questions, ok?

 

[hunterridgefarm]

Okay, some good reading. I have always sharpened by hand and don't seem to have an issue with it. One of my BIL has a electric model and loves it (my 2 other BIL's are lazy and a waist of oxygen). My friend that grinds stumps and uses saws a lot has one and loves it.

So if I seem to be satisfied with my hand sharpening skill is it worth buying one? If I can get it for $70.00 that does not seem like a bad price. And yes, a few of the old chains were dulled from hidden objects but they can be saved.

Everyone seems to rave about how great electric sharpeners are so I thought maybe I need to get one. On a rainy day I could sharpen all my chains.

I currently have about 25 white pine around the house I am taking out. Some are to make room for the pole barn/workshop. And I have 10-15 oaks I am taking down to make room for the 3 side equipment shed. I cut and removed 12 oak/pine during Thanksgiving. Did not have to stop and sharpen any during this cutting.

I have a 30 year old Stihl with 20" bar. This thing will cut through oak and hickory like butter. I have a 10 year old Husqvarna with an 18" bar and several old chains. Great saw and I use it for the smaller stuff and my triming saw for the down trees. Mainly because it has the chain brake.

Then I have my dad's old Poulan chainsaw around 16" bar, saw is like new but I don't use it much.

 

[the old grind]

Much like a saw blade, one or two teeth that won't clean up doesn't hurt much, tho' several in a row can be a problem. No need to grind all to perfection, they'll 'catch up' later.

Note that some models have angle adjust to 90^ for 'depth gauge' work. With HFT's fixed top angle you can improvise a bit.
30^ on the face angle when in doubt.

Oregon how-to link: How to Sharpen Chain Saw Chains, Oregon Chainsaw Sharpening Guide - YouTube

 

[oldballs]

Just a homeowner here, but have used chainsaws for 40 years in my rural home....Homelite, McCulloch, and Stihl. All this time I've hand sharpened and have been happy with the result. But recently a neighbor passed away and his wife gave me a brand new Oregon 511AX sharpener that he never used. Having considered buying one, I figured that $150-$250 would buy me a lot of new chains, so never bought one myself. After setting the freebie up nice and solid, it works okay. Probably it would be needed if one routinely used their saws quite often. However with limited workshop space, one has to set it up and take it down when finished. I've never worn a chain out and keep at least two chains for each bar size/make. I've cut a lot of Osage Orange, Pine, Locust, Maple and others. Good luck with Your decision. Cheers, Mike

 

[ovrszd]

What angle and file size you use?

I've got one of those metal file holders that has the hash marks for angle needed. I use that as a guide. Also the top of the tooth on Stihl chains have a hash mark at the rear of the tooth that is accurate.

Chain size depends on the saw, I've got an old Stihl 018, a 250 and a 361. Takes two different files.

 

[grsthegreat]

for years all i used was a file. Then i decided to build a railroad tie shooting range backstop. This wood destroyed 2 chains before i got in 4 cuts. so i went out and bought the Oregon brand sharpener. After doing a little research and some youtube study, i got to sharpening the chains. I LOVE IT. I was able to cut ALL the RR ties using 1 chain. I had to do alot of resharpening, and ended up nearly filing off all the teeth by the time i was done, but every cut was like having a new chain. Im sold on the tool. Now days i generally tune up the chain after cleaning the saw and putting it up until the next time i need it. Its nice to have either chainsaw ready for instant cutting when needed with an extremely sharp blade. I also use 30 degree setting. Not sure about the model the OP is talking about, but the Oregon unit has a very secure chain retaining mechanism and very precise angle lock.

 

[xtn]

Here is a video I watched a few days ago that explains the basics of using one of these machines.

How to Sharpen Chain Saw Chains, Oregon Chainsaw Sharpening Guide - YouTube

xtn