What many folks overlook is those little thingies between the cutting teeth. They reduce kickback, but also determine the cut depth per tooth. The tooth's backslope is called relief, and as you grind you lower the usable height. Some of us lower those non-cutters below typical stds of say .030"-.040". This can be done easily with an extra setup (or two) for each side. The saw will pull itself into the log and may bog more easily on some stuff with the extra bite. You may get a few extra cuts per grind, and a few more grinds per chain. Go with caution if you do this, but its part of getting the feel for your gear.
Know when to sharpen! I'm not a logger, I'm a retired journeyman tool grinder. One thing applies to most any cutting edge. The relief I spoke of above allows the tool to enter the cut without friction on the bottom or back side of the cutting edge. Lood at the top of the tooth. If you see a shiny spot on the corner you could use a redo soon and will want to check your chips for the bite you're getting. If you see sawdust vs chunks, it's probably time. 'Clean up' that shine, and it'll cut like new ... if you don't need to trim those nubs between teeth, too.
To avoid carving off too much tooth, be sure to set your angle, depth, and stop-finger with the grinder
unplugged, and adjust the stop toward the wheel while turning it by hand. The least touch at all (find a 'high spot') will take a good bit off once you're running. Recognize that you can (and will) influence the amount removed with side pressure as you bring the wheel down, more so with the poly HFT or an all-metal with worn bushings. Pull the chain snug against the stop as you tighten the clamp to do each tooth. Be sure to adjust the track width semi-snug so the chain doesn't wag side to side. Sometimes you'll go around more than once too. Keeps the heat down when sparks are flying.
Dress your wheel to clean out captured metal or to reshape it as needed. Supply houses have 'sticks' for this for a few $$ and they work on all vitreous wheels. (A must have) Turn the wheel over if you like to even up corner wear, but
never put one on without those paper washers. Expect it to wobble a tad either way, but that's no biggie. See above to feel that starting point when setting up. Dust the machine often to keep grit away from the motor's air inlet and bushings on the tilt. Don't blow it off with compressed air!
Dedicate an old paintbrush to the task and hang it within reach.
The brand/makeup of power-sharpener matters less than how well you use it. I'd like to shoot a video on setup, since I could put a lot into 5 min or so.(It's pretty easy to get
all the details down.) I'm sure others have posted such and may find a link to put up. Ask away, if you have questions, ok?