Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310?

   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #1  

etpm

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Jun 30, 2021
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Location
Whidbey Island, WA
Tractor
yanmar ym2310
I have lots of steel scrap that could be welded pretty easily into a several hundred pound block. Looking at the back of the 2310 I see the drawbar and the ROPS mounting bolts. It seems to me I could use the drawbar to support the weight and use the ROPS mounting bolts to stabilize the weight. Bad idea?
Thanks,
Eric
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #2  
If you are talking about the fixed belly mount drawbar,just don't exceed rated tongue weight and you'll be fine. If you are refering to a drawbar mounted between lift arms,I wouldn't do it unless weight is supported by something other than hydraulics. You could mount ballast on lift arms then support weight with chains to Rops or top link pin.
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #3  
I have lots of steel scrap that could be welded pretty easily into a several hundred pound block. Looking at the back of the 2310 I see the drawbar and the ROPS mounting bolts. It seems to me I could use the drawbar to support the weight and use the ROPS mounting bolts to stabilize the weight. Bad idea?
Thanks,
Eric

If you are looking at using ballast weight on the backend, first and foremost, look at all of the John Deere Compact 50 Series rear ballast options. Then build those types to your YM2310. A JD750 and JD850 are the 2 closest matches to your machine for size, weight and much of the 3PT lift areas.

As for doing something with the ROPs. I can't advise doing so.

So, why would someone want rear ballast? 1,000 words say why. LOL
1633717840229.png


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Or make your own Deere ballast box for the 3PT.
1633717935075.png

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And when the ballast box isn't used, it has a 2nd feature as a CARRY-ALL box. ;)

1633718061982.png
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #4  
If your just talking about "a several hundred pound blob" for a rear ballest weight, that's not much. Pretty much any implement will weigh more than several hundred pounds. I have a pretty light duty 4ft box blade. Its my lightest thing and I would guess it to be around 250 pounds. The heaviest thing I have used is a 6ft rear finish mower at almost 700 pounds. My disk harrow I know with the few pieces of steel I have on it must weigh over 500 pounds maybe closer to 600.
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #5  
I wouldn't bolt ballast on the back semi-permanently. Rather, anything you can back up to and lift with the 3-point will be a far better choice.

I have bolt-on cast weights on each rear wheel of the smaller YM186D. Here's something I devised when I needed more ballast while maneuvering in a very tight space between the barn and fence. I didn't think to install the cross-bar with hitch ball before chaining on the wheel weights, but I do that now and it moves the weight back a little.
Quick Hitch 65 lbs
Crossbar 25 lbs
Wheel weights - I have four, at 77 lbs each.

kimg0243rqh-ballast-jpg.390836
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #6  
I have lots of steel scrap that could be welded pretty easily into a several hundred pound block. Looking at the back of the 2310 I see the drawbar and the ROPS mounting bolts. It seems to me I could use the drawbar to support the weight and use the ROPS mounting bolts to stabilize the weight. Bad idea?
Thanks,
Eric
How do u get the block on/off the drawbar?
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #8  
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
It seems like a little clarification is in order. The drawbar I'm talking about is the one bolted to the bottom of the rear end casting. The drawbar itself is a round bar about 1.5 inches (76mm) in diameter. I'm not sure of the total weight of the steel I have, but it is between 300 and 600 pounds. The weight would all be supported by the drawbar, which in turn is supported by 4 bolts that hold two U shaped stamped parts made of steel about 3/8 inch thick. That would be 10mm for most folks. Looking at the ROPS again it would be the seat belt mounting bolts that would do double duty stabilizing the weight. This stabilization would be just that, keeping the weight stable so it wouldn't tend to rock side to side. Adding weight to the drawbar has several advantages for me. It keeps the added weight low and close to the rear axle centerline. I will construct the weight so that there is clearance for the PTO shaft, this means the Bush Hog and post hole digger can be used with the weight in place. Since I won't be using the 3 point hitch for the weight I can still use my box or back blades without removing the weight, and I can add the box blade for more and/or farther out weight if need be. I like it when the tractor is shorter, it makes it easier to maneuver. I don't like having to always worry about whatever is sticking out behind my tractor catching something. With my backhoe I'm always worrying about hitting something with the hoe. Because I have hit stuff with the hoe. More than once.
Eric
 
   / Using drawbar to support ballast on 2310? #10  
We (I?) understand that you want the weight bolted to the ROPS and bearing down on the drawbar.

Here's a similar arrangement using weights salvaged off of exercise equipment and resting on the drawbar, that I used for a while to improve traction pulling my 2600 lb watering trailer uphill.
img_20170707_105814rballastreartinas-jpg.514621

But we're trying to steer you to weight you can simply drop and abandon, similar to an implement, rather than semi-permanently mounted.

Maverick your first photo with the chrome trailer ball, has a loop to solve the problem of the ball rolling over upside down just as you back up to a trailer. Here's my similar solution. Cat1/2 sleeves with a flat bar welded to them, then the sleeve/bar assemblies bolted to ends of the crossbar. I've used this for several years. I thought the flat pieces might bend, but they haven't. This works well.
kimg1766rqh-toplinkpins-jpg.475243

In the last photo he will likely need to park the bucket of cement on something. Because the 3-point arms may not go low enough to connect, if he leaves the cement bucket on the ground. I see he has a jackstand under there to hold it up when he parks. A better design is a steel bar punched side to side through the bucket a foot off the ground, at a height where the 3-point arms can match up, before pouring the concrete. Stepping up in elegance, add a trailer hitch and some holes in the concrete to carry a shovel etc upright, before the pour.
 
 
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